DING DING DING, we have a winner Kurt. Motor works just fine, thanks
Thanks for the information. I also found out that the drive mechanism is the same as the O scale 264 save for the roller contacts on the bottom instead of the sliders.I wish they had old fashioned exploded drawings of each model to make it easier to order parts. I really just want to make this one work since it was my uncles. It was dropped a time or two as evidenced by the class lights. I drilled them a little to give a round shape and I am working on a lens as the stock wouldn't fit. Other than that the body is in great shape.
NICE!! I'm glad it was just the e-unit. Like you, I replaced it and it's a marvelous piece.
I sent the youtube vid to Dad and he was impressed!
Congrats on the repair -- now go enjoy it!!
I am the monster in your head...And I thought you'd learn by now, It seems you haven't yet.I am the venom in your skin --- Breaking Benjamin
clevedale Not sure what the drum is. Is it part of the E unit
Just FYI, the drum is (was) the shrapnel you show in your first picture. Your second picture shows a larger, more representative chunk of it rattling around in the unit. It is the red plastic round thing with copper contacts, and its purpose is to provide the electrical switching needed to make the engine change direction. Bypassing the e unit as you did, you wouldn't notice it had disintegrated. Now that ol' 1666 is up and running, your old unit is irrelevant, so "never mind"...
sulafoolNow that ol' 1666 is up and running, your old unit is irrelevant, so "never mind"...
I wish it was up and running. I was able to veryify that the motor and the field coil are good and working. I am still going to get an E unit and get it into proper working order.
clevedale DING DING DING, we have a winner Kurt. Motor works just fine, thanks
Just thinking off of my rocker here. Is there a front pilot from a switcher that will fit the 1666?
If I end up running it on DC I may put a chuffing smoke unit in it and wire it for constant lighting. One thing that I hated about trains from when I was a kid is that the light barely glows unless the train is running fast.
Just bored and thinking that's all.
The 1666 is similar to the 2026. You have the pilot truck, you just need the wheels and axel. 2026 parts may be easier to come by.
Kurt
The light put out by an incandescent lamp varies strongly with the voltage (as the 3.5 power). So a lamp that is reasonably bright at 14 volts, for example, puts out only 9 percent at half that voltage. It is also a lot yellower at the lower voltage.
An LED connected by a ballast resistor, on the other hand, puts out light almost directly proportional to the voltage. The light is therefore not constant with voltage; but the difference between 14 and 7 volts is very hard to see (at least, I can't see it) and the color doesn't change at all.
Richmond Controls sells what they call "golden white" tinted white LEDs that mimic the color of an incandescent locomotive headlight. I have slightly reduced the diameter of a 5-millimeter LED to an interference fit in the headlight hole of a 2-6-4 2026 and flattened the tip to match the original light-pipe shape. I'll bet you could do the same with your 1666.
http://www.richmondcontrols.com/
Bob Nelson
HI, I have a disconnected wire on my 1666. It is the wire from the area at the top of the picture where the "Y" is located. Can you tell me where it connects?
Thanks,Bob
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