HI, I have a disconnected wire on my 1666. It is the wire from the area at the top of the picture where the "Y" is located. Can you tell me where it connects?
Thanks,Bob
The light put out by an incandescent lamp varies strongly with the voltage (as the 3.5 power). So a lamp that is reasonably bright at 14 volts, for example, puts out only 9 percent at half that voltage. It is also a lot yellower at the lower voltage.
An LED connected by a ballast resistor, on the other hand, puts out light almost directly proportional to the voltage. The light is therefore not constant with voltage; but the difference between 14 and 7 volts is very hard to see (at least, I can't see it) and the color doesn't change at all.
Richmond Controls sells what they call "golden white" tinted white LEDs that mimic the color of an incandescent locomotive headlight. I have slightly reduced the diameter of a 5-millimeter LED to an interference fit in the headlight hole of a 2-6-4 2026 and flattened the tip to match the original light-pipe shape. I'll bet you could do the same with your 1666.
http://www.richmondcontrols.com/
Bob Nelson
The 1666 is similar to the 2026. You have the pilot truck, you just need the wheels and axel. 2026 parts may be easier to come by.
Kurt
Just thinking off of my rocker here. Is there a front pilot from a switcher that will fit the 1666?
If I end up running it on DC I may put a chuffing smoke unit in it and wire it for constant lighting. One thing that I hated about trains from when I was a kid is that the light barely glows unless the train is running fast.
Just bored and thinking that's all.
clevedale DING DING DING, we have a winner Kurt. Motor works just fine, thanks
sulafoolNow that ol' 1666 is up and running, your old unit is irrelevant, so "never mind"...
I wish it was up and running. I was able to veryify that the motor and the field coil are good and working. I am still going to get an E unit and get it into proper working order.
clevedale Not sure what the drum is. Is it part of the E unit
Just FYI, the drum is (was) the shrapnel you show in your first picture. Your second picture shows a larger, more representative chunk of it rattling around in the unit. It is the red plastic round thing with copper contacts, and its purpose is to provide the electrical switching needed to make the engine change direction. Bypassing the e unit as you did, you wouldn't notice it had disintegrated. Now that ol' 1666 is up and running, your old unit is irrelevant, so "never mind"...
NICE!! I'm glad it was just the e-unit. Like you, I replaced it and it's a marvelous piece.
I sent the youtube vid to Dad and he was impressed!
Congrats on the repair -- now go enjoy it!!
I am the monster in your head...And I thought you'd learn by now, It seems you haven't yet.I am the venom in your skin --- Breaking Benjamin
Thanks for the information. I also found out that the drive mechanism is the same as the O scale 264 save for the roller contacts on the bottom instead of the sliders.I wish they had old fashioned exploded drawings of each model to make it easier to order parts. I really just want to make this one work since it was my uncles. It was dropped a time or two as evidenced by the class lights. I drilled them a little to give a round shape and I am working on a lens as the stock wouldn't fit. Other than that the body is in great shape.
DING DING DING, we have a winner Kurt. Motor works just fine, thanks
1666 is a great engine. My dad got me one for Christmas a few years ago (I'd requested something both prewar and diecast); he did not anticipate that it would turn into a "project" engine, though! I learned a LOT working on it, and now it runs just famously. A good puller, too, especially for a pre-magnetraction engine. The 1666 got me started in the "metahobby" of train repair. Now I enjoy repairing steamers almost as much as running them.
BTW, Olsens is a great resource. Keep nosing around in their Library; they have service manual articles about motors, e-units, transformers and the like. Very useful, but not always filed exactly where you were expecting to find them!
Yes.
I had actually removed the two white wires from the solder tabs that lead to the brushes.
I'll see what I can do in the morning. Dumb question here, is the field coil the thing that looks like a motor winding between the e unit and the motor in the frame ?
Thanks for the help
Disconnect the wire leading from the pickup to the e-unit, the wire going from the e-unit to the field coil, and finally disconnect the two wires from the brush plate. Once the e-unit is disconnected, you can test the motor.
Connect one wire from the transformer to the frame of the locomotive, and connect the other wire to either one of the brush holders. Connect the one wire from the field coil to the remaining brush holder. The other end of the field coil is already grounded to the locomotive frame. When you apply power, the motor should run. You can make it run in the other direction by switching the wires connected to the brush holders. For example, if the motor ran in one direction with the one wire from the transformer connected to the right brush holder and the field connected to the left, you can make it run in the other direction by moving the wire from the transformer to the left brush holder and the field to the right.
(information care of greenprobe97) Here's a link to the origional post....I've been here before: http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/64083/788503.aspx#788503
Not sure what the drum is. Is it part of the E unit. I'll be getting a whole new E unit. Please forgive my ignorance. I got a copy of a service manual and while there is decent info in it it is sparse. Whatever happened to good old exploded diagrams?
I disconnected the motor from the drive so that it isn't pulling the gear box. When I apply power to the Brush Holders on the frame it jumps a little but won't run. Am I doing something wrong here? I have it drawn below as to where I am connecting the transformer leads.
I took the motor out and cleaned the brushes, pole surfaces etc. Motor moves freely when turned by hand.
clevedale Clean and lube in order I believe.
and a new drum
I figured out how to post pictures, lol. Her is the Eunit pictures. Obviously I need a new one. Motor inside the assembly hums when I touch both contacts directly at the motor but won't turn over the assembly. Clean and lube in order I believe.
I see both points on the repaint. Since it has a lot of sentimental value to me I may, leave it as is. Were it not for that I'd repaint it without question. I uploaded more photos of the rebuild. My service manuals with parts diagrams should be here today. It definitely looks like I'll need a new E unit as the lever is gone.
I'd leave that locomotive be as far as paint. she looks pretty good to me.
Dave
It's a TOY, A child's PLAYTHING!!! (Woody from Toy Story)
I wonder if I might add a few words about the paint debate. I am a collector from England (not too many of those on this forum, I guess) and I occasionally run my Lionel trains at exhibitions. I don't have a 1666 but I do have the 2026 which is basically a post-war 1666 with a smoke unit.
As far as paint is concerned, I work on the basis that I want my trains to look nice when they are running in exhibitions. So unless any of my trains are valuable (which the 1666 certainly isn't) then I would rather it looked good than that it bore all its 60+ year-old scratches and looked like the walking wounded! So I imagine it all depends what you want the locomotive to do for you. Does this help?
I also have a 1666 from my Dad. I replaced the e-unit (purchased from Olsons) and run perfectly!!
It maintains a place on the layout as a display unit, but it does go out and play once in a while!
That's a pre-war 1666 Type II, built the later part of 1946. The number plate is separately applied, the pilot (front) truck frame is die-cast, and the bell is not a press-in type.
Clean the bottoms of the wheels with denatured alcohol, and a q-tip, and add a small amount of plastic safe oil, like LaBelle 108, to the linkages and running gear, and you should be good to go.
You will need to open her up to look at the e-unit lever, and may need to replace the entire e-unit, as the arms are rivited into place.
kpolakCan you post some photos of the underside? It looks like a little oil and gear lube and that will be off and running!
That's good news. Besides the obvious pilot wheels missing. The reverser switch is missing, their are a couple screws holding the undercarriage on missing. In the front photo the class light on the engineers side is "winking" at us thanks to the loco being dropped at some point. It looks like I should be able to fix that up with a little coaxing a drill press and a new lens
You mentioned Pre-War? Is this Pre or Post?
Thanks for the input on the repaint. Depending on which day of the week it is I have been for and against it. I will likely leave it as is. It took 60 something years to develop that character. Maybe just a gentle cleaning on the outside.
clevedale My uncle gave me his old train set. It is in bad shape.
I'm not sure what you think is in bad shape. That's a nice looking engine, for it's pre-war age. Remember it's been around, and played with for 60 + years. The finish on the plated items is still in good shape, and there isn't any rust.
I advise against a strip and repaint.
Can you post some photos of the underside? It looks like a little oil and gear lube and that will be off and running!
If you don't have a whistle in your tender, it will run just fine on DC. In fact, it will be quieter. But if there is a whistle, it will blow continuously. You will however need quite a bit more current than an HO train draws.
Postwar transformers have circuit breakers. You can't go wrong with a Lionel 1033 or 1044.
Thanks, I do realize I have to use an AC transformer. I'll have to buy one. I would be afraid to plug in transformer that came with it. It was the 40 watt model and it don't look to good.
"Does the 1666 change direction by only moving the switch or will it change by cutting the power? How does that work"
The 1666 has an "E" unit. You change directions by turning power off and on. You realize you need an AC transformer for this, right?
Roger
Thanks for all of the help. I hope to start disassembling it this week. Here is a link to a photo of my
A couple more things. Except for when I was a young child when I had a couple of Marx trains and I believe a Lionel? All of my experience has been in DC trains. My trains when I was a child only ran in one direction if I remember correctly. I also remember losing a couple of them to derailments and the motors burning up.
Here are the pictures...
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