I'm building my control box and will be making the face board out of 1/8" masonite. I have limited wood working experience.
1) What type of saw blade should I use on the masonite so that the cut is clean?
I planned on having my box be 14" x 30" with the masonite supported from underneath by using 1/4" x 1/4" cleats to form a ledge around the interior perimeter of the box, and held in place on the top with 1/4 round braded into place.
2) Will 1/8" masonite span 14" x 30" without sagging, or should I plan on having one or two small support beams under it?
Thank you,
Chris
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
I would use a fine tooth blade designed for veneer (approx 6TPI). Move slowly. Otherwise it scorches the masonite. It gives off strong fumes while cutting I should add. A 14" span could suffer some sag depending how many control swithes you mount to it. I would put one there for the sake of it. Especially if you plan to drill holes in it after it is mounted for drilling support. Masonite is difficult to nail through unless you drill pilot holes. It's best to use screws anyway. Masonite likes to warp and is likely to pull the brads out (another reason for a center support). 1/4" cleats are gauranteed to split if you nail into them. You can use flathead screws and countersink them. Pilot drill the cleats for the screws or they will split the cleats. For switch mounting and pilot holes, I would drill with cobalt bits at a slow speed. Again, high speed will torch it.
Next to sheet metal, masonite is an excellent surface for a control panel. It is smooth and holds switches nicely without crushing. It also paints nicely as long as you primer it. You can sprau paint it. If you brush it, use paint conditioner such as Flotrol for a smooth finish.
Thank you for all the responses! I'm glad I asked before jumping into this.
I was going to glue the 1/4" x 1/4" cleats to the box frame (made from 1" x 4") rather than use screws. I have a lot of wood clamps so securing pieces while gluing isn't a problem. I figured that screws would split the 1/4 x 1/4 cleats. These cleats would be about 3/8" below the top of the box's frame to allow for the height of 1/8" masonite and 1/4 round.
I was thinking of floating the masonite on the top of the wood sub-frame rather than securing the masonite to the sub-frame. I was thinking that the 1/4 round placed on top perimeter of the masonite would hold it in place as well as provide a nice finished look.
I suppose I could also glue the masonite to the sub-frame, and/or glue the 1/4 round to the frame rather than try to brad it into place.
Thank you again. All the responses have been a help.
3railguy is right about the veneer blade on a skill type saw being the best. You can also put a strip of 2" wide masking tape on the board before drawing you line. Place it so the line (and your cut) goes right down the middle of the tape. You can put it on both sides too, that will get the cleanest cut.
gvdobler wrote: 3railguy is right about the veneer blade on a skill type saw being the best. You can also put a strip of 2" wide masking tape on the board before drawing you line. Place it so the line (and your cut) goes right down the middle of the tape. You can put it on both sides too, that will get the cleanest cut.
Test this first on some scrap. I used painters tape tape on my last project, and it removed a bit of the masonite when I removed the tape. The tape is a grat idea on plywood.
Kurt
When you said "1/4" round braded into place" I thought you intended to nail brads through the masonite into the cleats. Masonite is dificult to nail through unless you drill holes through it first. Otherwise the brads are subject to bend when you drive them. The glue should prevent it from warping. Glue alone may or may not be strong enough. Hard to say. I would prefer to screw it with no glue because it makes it easier remove the panel for making wiring connections or changes. Some hinge the panel for this reason. Or you might make changes to your track plan and want to replace the panel altogether to avoid gaping holes.
As others say, experiment with the saw on scrap. Saw power and blade quality varies.
Yup, metal blade. Good call Brent.
Wes
Wes Whitmore wrote: Yup, metal blade. Good call Brent. Wes
I've used both. They are a horse apiece. If you mean the abrasive metal blades, the surface isn't always perfectly true and difficult to control.
I've just used regular metal cutting jigsaw blades out of the craftsman multi=blade packs to cut tempored masonite with no problem. I never really gave it much though since I could cut my guide line with some precision. I'm no shop tech, but with variation of blade speed, I thought I was making pretty good cuts.
If you're talking jigsaw blades, I agree on the metal blades. I assumed a circular or table saw.
Thank you all for your thoughts. It has been great reading them.
I have a hand held Skill jigsaw, so I can get some of the blades recommended. I can also borrow a circular saw if that would be better. I will use tape!
As to how to secure the masonite, you all shared some very good points to think about. I would have never thought of half of these points. Thank you. I didn't realize that brads would require pre-drilling, so that option is out.
At this point I am leaning towards gluing everything in place. I'm going to be using pan head screws and a probe to switch the turnouts. So I am thinking that it would be best to keep the number of screw heads visible on the panel to those used for the turnouts.
Thank you again for all your help!
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
They should be able to cut it on their panel saw. For a while, they wouldn't cut MDF or masonite because of the chemicals used to make the board, but I haven't had any problems with that for a couple of years now. You get two cuts free, and other cuts after that are .25. Usually, they will just keep cutting for free.
lionroar88 wrote:3rail I was looking for a good circular saw blade or table saw blade for cutting metal. I found these http://www.metaldevil.com/ they cut cool as the blade is designed to not transfer heat to the material. They make them in various diameters, but for the price of 1 10" blade I bought a new DeWalt sabre saw and still had enough left over to buy 4 5 blade packs!
If that's the kind of metal blade you guys are talking about OUCH! It didn't cross my mind. I have one in my cut off saw and it was 200 bucks (14"). Dewalt I think. I don't know what they cost for a circular saw. He's cutting a piece masonite so I figured a $12 fine tooth veneer blade in a circular saw would be fine. And they do work fine. Straighter than a jigsaw no matter what you use.
If the masonite is to be held in place by quarter-round on top, you could cut it with a can opener and it wouldn't matter, since the edge will be well hidden.
Have you thought about providing for turning the panel over for maintenance?
Bob Nelson
Bob this is a very disturbing point you raise (aside from the fact that they must sell one heck of a can opener where you live).
20 years ago I would have used 1/4 round because it meant I could be sloppy. Now I'm worried about fine cutting hidden edges...
It's not like anyone will notice the carpet covering the benchwork, the third rail on the tubular track, or the fact that the rails come 1/3 up the height of a car. They will all be asking if the panel hidden by 1/4 round was cut straight.
I really need wire this up so I can play with the trains again.
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