Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
I'm new to the forum and fairly new to repairs; thus, I have not heard about liquid plastic. Could you tell me about this product and where I can get it. I'll start with walkways on box cars. Or does the liquid plastic need to be supported on all sides?
Dremel wire brushes can be rather harsh. I have a large wire brush on a motor that turns at 1150 RPM and usually does not remove the bluing. Keep in mind that any NEW wire brush will be very harsh.
Thanks for you time and tallent.
Old Toy (whoever you really are),
I made the "liquid plastic" by cutting little pieces of styrene. After I had a small pile of styrene, I added some Testor's liquid plastic cement. The model cement melts the plastic and it becomes semi-solid, depending on the cement/plastic ratio. I mixed enough so that the slurry would flow like a thick pancake batter, but you could make it thinner by adding more cement. The resulting patch is more or less welded to the damaged shell via the cement in the mixture, creating a monolithic piece.
When using a wire wheel in a Dremel to clean Lionel wheels for re-blueing, use a steel wheel, not a stainless steel wheel. As the wire wheel cleans the train's wheel, a residue is left behind. Most re-blueing formulas do not work well if at all on stainless steel.
I've never had a wire wheel damage a train wheel, and I run at a high rpm. The wire wheel breaks down, but not the train wheel.
Stainless steel or a Scotchbrite pad is recommended if you are cleaning drivers on a locomotive. Especially near the motor.
----------------------
Last night I repainted the missing letters on the other side of the shell. Brent's tender is now finished. But I noticed that a nut is missing that secures the mechanism to the frame, Brent. That is causing the tender to lean to one side slightly, and is most likely why the mechanism made the hole in the first place. It is loose and does move around in there, so get yourself a replacement. I didn't have any spares.
Jumijo wrote: Old Toy (whoever you really are),I made the "liquid plastic" by cutting little pieces of styrene. After I had a small pile of styrene, I added some Testor's liquid plastic cement. The model cement melts the plastic and it becomes semi-solid, depending on the cement/plastic ratio. I mixed enough so that the slurry would flow like a thick pancake batter, but you could make it thinner by adding more cement. The resulting patch is more or less welded to the damaged shell via the cement in the mixture, creating a monolithic piece.When using a wire wheel in a Dremel to clean Lionel wheels for re-blueing, use a steel wheel, not a stainless steel wheel. As the wire wheel cleans the train's wheel, a residue is left behind. Most re-blueing formulas do not work well if at all on stainless steel. I've never had a wire wheel damage a train wheel, and I run at a high rpm. The wire wheel breaks down, but not the train wheel.Stainless steel or a Scotchbrite pad is recommended if you are cleaning drivers on a locomotive. Especially near the motor. ----------------------Last night I repainted the missing letters on the other side of the shell. Brent's tender is now finished. But I noticed that a screw is missing that secures the mechanism to the frame, Brent. That is causing the tender to lean to one side slightly, and is most likely why the mechanism made the hole in the first place. It is loose and does move around in there, so get yourself a replacement. I didn't have any spares.
Last night I repainted the missing letters on the other side of the shell. Brent's tender is now finished. But I noticed that a screw is missing that secures the mechanism to the frame, Brent. That is causing the tender to lean to one side slightly, and is most likely why the mechanism made the hole in the first place. It is loose and does move around in there, so get yourself a replacement. I didn't have any spares.
It's been a fun project so far, Brent. Now comes the unknown territory - airbrushing!
And a correction - there is a nut missing, not a screw.
According to a Lionel drawing, it's a 6-32 hex nut. Part number 5C-99.
If you don't find one at a hardware store, I'll try to find one at the train show next month.
Thats proof the wife has you working to hard on remodeling the house you need to be given a whole week of nothing but trains
Signed
DR. B.&O. Train is calling
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
Jim,
I found the blades and heandle at Michael's. Which saw blade do you use, the one that fits the mitre box or the heavy duty blade?
Mike
Use the fine tooth blade, Mike. Good luck with your repair.
Here's Brent's tender behind my 736. This photo shows the repainted letters.
Before:
Thanks, both saw blades are fine tooth but one is wider to fit in the mitre box. Now to find donor shells. Do you use PW shells or repros? I have two PW shells missing the same step!!
Mike the repro's steps are slightly different than the original pw steps. I used a donor pw shell. And I used the wider saw blade. Just go slow and take your time.
As an aside, I'm not 100% pleased with the hole repair on Brent's tender. Once the World Series hulabaloo is over, I intend to re-do the repair.
That's what I thought, the wider blade would seem to add some stability and allow a deeper cut. I did notice that the repro steps are slightly different. Finding donor PW shells is a little tough. My LHS doesn't part with tenders easily regardless of condition since he gets more lonely engines than pairs, as you know, engines and tenders are often separated over time because they are not thought of as a set, resulting in high prices even for non-whistling tenders or damaged shells.
Well, the search is on.
ezmike wrote:Jim, That's what I thought, the wider blade would seem to add some stability and allow a deeper cut. Exactly. I did notice that the repro steps are slightly different. Finding donor PW shells is a little tough. You could repair the step, depending on what is wrong with it. Why not post a nice, clear photo of the damaged area? Then we can see what you are up against.
That's what I thought, the wider blade would seem to add some stability and allow a deeper cut.
Exactly.
I did notice that the repro steps are slightly different. Finding donor PW shells is a little tough.
You could repair the step, depending on what is wrong with it. Why not post a nice, clear photo of the damaged area? Then we can see what you are up against.
A Halloween Joke
A cabbie picks up a Nun.
She gets into the cab, and notices that the VERY handsome cab driver won't stop staring at her.
She asks him why he is staring.
He replies: "I have a question to ask you but I don't want to offend you."
She answers, "My son, you cannot offend me. When you're as old as I am and have been a nun as long as I have, you get a chance to see and hear just about everything. I'm sure that there's nothing you could say or ask that I would find offensive."
"Well, I've always had a fantasy to have a nun kiss me."
She responds, "Well, let's see what we can do about that: #1, you have to be single and #2, you must be Catholic."
The cab driver is very excited and says, "Yes, I'm single and Catholic!"
"OK" the nun says. "Pull in to the next alley."
The nun fulfills his fantasy, with a kiss that would make a hooker blush. But when they get back on the road, the cab driver starts crying.
"My dear child," says the nun, "why are you crying?"
"Forgive me but I've sinned. I lied and I must confess, I'm married and I'm Jewish."
The nun says, "That's OK. My name is Chief Eagles and I'm going to a Halloween party."
Jumijo wrote: A Halloween JokeA cabbie picks up a Nun.She gets into the cab, and notices that the VERY handsome cab driver won't stop staring at her.She asks him why he is staring.He replies: "I have a question to ask you but I don't want to offend you."She answers, "My son, you cannot offend me. When you're as old as I am and have been a nun as long as I have, you get a chance to see and hear just about everything. I'm sure that there's nothing you could say or ask that I would find offensive.""Well, I've always had a fantasy to have a nun kiss me."She responds, "Well, let's see what we can do about that: #1, you have to be single and #2, you must be Catholic."The cab driver is very excited and says, "Yes, I'm single and Catholic!""OK" the nun says. "Pull in to the next alley."The nun fulfills his fantasy, with a kiss that would make a hooker blush. But when they get back on the road, the cab driver starts crying."My dear child," says the nun, "why are you crying?""Forgive me but I've sinned. I lied and I must confess, I'm married and I'm Jewish."The nun says, "That's OK. My name is Chief Eagles and I'm going to a Halloween party."
Jumijo wrote: ezmike wrote: Jim, That's what I thought, the wider blade would seem to add some stability and allow a deeper cut. Exactly. I did notice that the repro steps are slightly different. Finding donor PW shells is a little tough. You could repair the step, depending on what is wrong with it. Why not post a nice, clear photo of the damaged area? Then we can see what you are up against.
ezmike wrote: Jim, That's what I thought, the wider blade would seem to add some stability and allow a deeper cut. Exactly. I did notice that the repro steps are slightly different. Finding donor PW shells is a little tough. You could repair the step, depending on what is wrong with it. Why not post a nice, clear photo of the damaged area? Then we can see what you are up against.
lionroar88 wrote: Jumijo wrote: ezmike wrote: Jim, That's what I thought, the wider blade would seem to add some stability and allow a deeper cut. Exactly. I did notice that the repro steps are slightly different. Finding donor PW shells is a little tough. You could repair the step, depending on what is wrong with it. Why not post a nice, clear photo of the damaged area? Then we can see what you are up against. Would it be possible to make a mold of the steps on a good shell, then cast a new set of steps?
Yes indeedy doodlie.
The easiest way would be with resin in a rubber mold. I'd like to see a photo of the damage. He might not need to cut anything off. This might be a candidate for damage repair instead of damage replacement. I replaced my steps because I had no choice. They were gone.
That joke was pretty good.
I'll take pics of the shells in question tonight and post them. The camera isn't the greatest but I think it will be okay.
One of the shells is missing the step, it is gone. The step on the other shell broke off but I still have it. So it is a candidate for repair. In fact it looks to me like both steps on this shell were repaired at one time but not very well. I probably can clean that one up and use a little plastic weld cement, model putty and paint and be good to go. The other shell requires a replacement step.
Stay tuned.
Sorry guys, I didn't get a chance to shoot the pics last night.
Its now just one tender, as the seller of the other tender is sending me a complete PW 2046W shell without any prior repairs.
The remaining tender shell is a PW 2671W shell. If you are looking at the tender from the rear it is the right step.
ezmike wrote:Sorry guys, I didn't get a chance to shoot the pics last night.Its now just one tender, as the seller of the other tender is sending me a complete PW 2046W shell without any prior repairs.The remaining tender shell is a PW 2671W shell. If you are looking at the tender from the rear it is the right step.Mike
These are both the same shell, save for the lettering. Some 2671s have Lionel Lines, others have Pennsylvania. All 2046w shells are Lionel Lines. But a step from one will replace the other's.
Repro Pennsy shell's lettering seem to look more like original pw than the Lionel Lines versions.
Yep, I realize that they are the same shell, that was just my exacting in detail nature to post the actual tender it was from. Actually, I have both a Pennsy and NYC repro shell (even though I do not believe Lionel produced a NYC 2046/2671). The Pennsy does look more like the original PW. A repro shell is one way to go or if I'm feeling creative I can attempt the repair from a junk shell.
I appreciate your input.
Mike, don't go out of your way or spend a lot of money looking for a donor shell. Patience most often pays off. Look around at shows for damaged or clean shells. These things have a way of surfacing with a little looking. Don't disregard the very inexpensive, smaller, non-whistling tenders either. I believe their steps might be the same as the longer shells. A very nice one shouldn't set you back more than $5.00. I'll research that tonight and see if the steps are the same.
Run the tender with a repro shell until an original comes along. Then move forward with the repair. If I had a donor step, I'd certainly be willing to fix the tender for you, or send it to you so you could learn by doing the repair yourself.
I'm going to a show in a few weeks. I'll keep my eyes open for a shell for you.
JIm,
I have a repro NYC shell that I'm going to use until I can find a donor shell for the LL shell. For me the best place to do that is going to be a show because my local train shop tends to overprice PW stuff in general especially anything related to a tender. There is one train/toy event coming up in December & February that I plan on going to that's about 45 minutes away otherwise, there a re couple of shows sooner but most of them are an hour and a half to two and a half hours away. Then there's aways Springfield in January. So anyway, I'll just keep my eyes open for one when I attend a show.
Thanks for the offer and everything else. Keep in touch.
Mike, I'll be at the Springfield show in January. Hope to see you there.
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