rtraincollector wrote: Well heres some of my engines as I was taking pics for records . that I have I don't really have a layout so figure would show some of what I have. This is the Williams remake and I love it its a super quiet running engine. Has horn and Bells This si the 681RR I got a couple of weeks ago it runs like a champ have to get another tender for it a PA. one and then she will be set. Heres my 2343's been thru a lot befor I got them but there top runners now. This set was brought into the hobby shop near where I lived when I lived in VA. I got them for $50.00 they looked like a kid played with them in the dirt. well I cleaned them up and sent them out for repair and about 3 weeks later have a good running set Well thats my show for the week will post more probally as time goes on
Well heres some of my engines as I was taking pics for records . that I have I don't really have a layout so figure would show some of what I have.
This is the Williams remake and I love it its a super quiet running engine. Has horn and Bells
This si the 681RR I got a couple of weeks ago it runs like a champ have to get another tender for it a PA. one and then she will be set.
Heres my 2343's been thru a lot befor I got them but there top runners now. This set was brought into the hobby shop near where I lived when I lived in VA. I got them for $50.00 they looked like a kid played with them in the dirt. well I cleaned them up and sent them out for repair and about 3 weeks later have a good running set
Well thats my show for the week will post more probally as time goes on
All of those engines look great! I noticed the NYC tender on the 681RR. From what I have read on it, that tender was used with the late 1960's version of the 773 hudson.
lionroar88 wrote: FJ and G wrote: Thanks, Kurt, I sort of like the swiss cheese look. Hole only go partway thru. I might try mixing golf balls into the next batch. LOLBTW, did you know you can do this to make bridges and trains structures like buildings? Just make the right wood forms and use drywall screws so you can demold it. Plaster might be lighter for indoors, unless you're using 2x6 lumber for benchwork. Was thinking of doing something like this with plaster for a bridge on the new layout. instead of using wood, I was going to use PVC pipe cut in half for the arches. Then space them evenly and use 1/4 play for the sides. Will probably use some small ribar to add aditional strength as well. Also toyed with the idea of using homasote as an upperbase to use for securing the track, but concerned the homasote would deform due to the water in the plaster. Then thought of using some PVC board to form a channel that a piece of homasote could be placed inside... that is probably the route I will go as I have some PVC board leftover from an exterior wood upgrade I did this past summer...
FJ and G wrote: Thanks, Kurt, I sort of like the swiss cheese look. Hole only go partway thru. I might try mixing golf balls into the next batch. LOLBTW, did you know you can do this to make bridges and trains structures like buildings? Just make the right wood forms and use drywall screws so you can demold it. Plaster might be lighter for indoors, unless you're using 2x6 lumber for benchwork.
Thanks, Kurt, I sort of like the swiss cheese look. Hole only go partway thru. I might try mixing golf balls into the next batch. LOL
BTW, did you know you can do this to make bridges and trains structures like buildings? Just make the right wood forms and use drywall screws so you can demold it. Plaster might be lighter for indoors, unless you're using 2x6 lumber for benchwork.
Brent: There was an article on a concrete freight depot in the Model Railroader: How To Build Realistic Layouts; Freight Yards. He used fine grain anchor bolt cement, and vibrated the sides. The aggregate of a typical concrete mix will be out of scale if it shows through.
Kurt
Dave Connolly wrote: Laz, I usually just put tape over the back up light, headlight, and cab glass. The marker lights I usually find a piece of shrink wrap that loosely fits the light. It's to small to apply tape to. With an airbrush. Especially a double action. It takes quite a number of passes just to fade out the white numbers or lettering. Just take it slow and you will get get results. I have the green Berk as well. I to didn't care for the green paint job. But being a B&A fan and finally getting some engines I bought these as well as any others the manufactures put out. I couldn't understand why MTH didn't offer this scheme on their Premier Hudson. They painted the Gauge 1 in that scheme. I applied the same base colring to the green one as I did the black one. Really tones it down. I have a couple of Mohawks to do this winter. I'll try to take some photos of each step.
Laz, I usually just put tape over the back up light, headlight, and cab glass. The marker lights I usually find a piece of shrink wrap that loosely fits the light. It's to small to apply tape to. With an airbrush. Especially a double action. It takes quite a number of passes just to fade out the white numbers or lettering. Just take it slow and you will get get results.
I have the green Berk as well. I to didn't care for the green paint job. But being a B&A fan and finally getting some engines I bought these as well as any others the manufactures put out. I couldn't understand why MTH didn't offer this scheme on their Premier Hudson. They painted the Gauge 1 in that scheme. I applied the same base colring to the green one as I did the black one. Really tones it down.
I have a couple of Mohawks to do this winter. I'll try to take some photos of each step.
NICE job DAVE on that green Berk it looks really neat. I'll try and experiment with some of the airbrushing, on my Berk. Thanks for the insight.
laz57
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