[:D]Sunday Photo Fun 9-16-07

[spankybird]

Here is a Tin Plate Trolley that was donate to the musuem

 

[laz 57]

Nice TOM,

Heres from my layout....

laz57

[alexweiihman]

NICE PHOTOS!

 

[FJ and G]

 I'm experimenting on my first concrete flower pot, made using an inner and outer plastic pot (weighted with a steel water cap, as it wanted to float up). I'll wait a few days and remove the mold and see what it looks like. (1st photo). Cost of concrete to do this was about 1/8 of a $3 bag on concrete.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[fifedog]

SPANKY - What a gem...

laz57 - HUBBA HUBBA!

[envfocus]

Here's my 254e locomotive pulling out from the station this morning.  I'm still working on fixing the e-unit so its just going forward for now.

[spankybird]

From the museum's open house, running 'O' gauge and 'G' together!

 

[laz 57]

Some new pics from my layout and wall shelves....

laz57

[Brutus]

Great pics guys!  Love the "scenery" Laz!  Nice shelves, are those about 3 inches deep?  Cool trolley, Tom!  I hope Doug M checks in, like to hear his comments!  Alex, nice action shot!  David, I think you should have your own show on DIY!  RJ - that's REAL tinplate there, VERY cool!

[laz 57]

JIM, about 3.5 inches deep, made them into 4' x 4' sections for easier handling and screwing into joist and wall.

laz57

[Brutus]

They look great - did you route the dadoes or do them on the tablesaw?  They look tight, so I am pretty sure you didn't use one of those wobble blades.  Very nice and clean work and well proportioned!

[envfocus]

I agree with Jim regarding your shelves Laz.  Very nice and I like the "wrap around" look.  I may try something like that in the future.

[Dave Connolly]

[billbarman]

Nice layout Dave!

[laz 57]

Thanks RJ and BRUTO, but I did use a wobble blade for the dados.  I had just gotten it resharpened.  I have a stack set but they were out getting resharpened and had to use the wobbler.  Very easy to make, ripped all wood to 3.5 inches then ran 2 grooves for the wheels 1an a eighth inches apart on table saw ,then set up dado head ran all the dados at once.  Put together with nail gun and glue, rip luan for back attach with nail gun hang and done.  I didn't put a finish on them just let them look au natural.

laz57

 

[laz 57]

DAVE CONNLEY, nice weather job on that K-line Berk.  What did you use?

laz57

[dwiemer]

Great photos guys.  Dave, I think you may want to get the M.O.W. units out on the tracks. 

Dave C., mighty fine job you've done there.

Dennis

[PhilaKnight]

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[billbarman]

PhilaKnight, is that lionel or MTH?

[Dave Connolly]

 Laz, I bought an airbrush a couple of years ago. A double action Badger. Sort of dove into it after reading a few articles. I use Poly S paints and stick to a few basic colors. Grimy Black, Earth, DRG&W Brown, Sand and Mud. I start by giving the entire model a mist of Grimy Black. I then highlight the details with the other colors. Morning Sun books is a good reference source for color photos. I recently bought a roller base setup for doing the wheels and rods by running the engine at a very slow speed.

 I don't really consider myself an art type. I couldn't paint a straight line if I had to. The airbrush puts out a very fine mist. With a little practice it's really hard to over do it. With the proper color choices you can get predictable results. Weathering can open up a whole new hobby. All my freight equipment is pretty much complete. These pieces are all keepers and it makes the cars blend in with everything else I'm doing.

[Brutus]

nice pics PK and DC and you did great with that paint job!  Laz, I'm going to copy those shelves one fine day.

[laz 57]

 Laz, I bought an airbrush a couple of years ago. A double action Badger. Sort of dove into it after reading a few articles. I use Poly S paints and stick to a few basic colors. Grimy Black, Earth, DRG&W Brown, Sand and Mud. I start by giving the entire model a mist of Grimy Black. I then highlight the details with the other colors. Morning Sun books is a good reference source for color photos. I recently bought a roller base setup for doing the wheels and rods by running the engine at a very slow speed.

 I don't really consider myself an art type. I couldn't paint a straight line if I had to. The airbrush puts out a very fine mist. With a little practice it's really hard to over do it. With the proper color choices you can get predictable results. Weathering can open up a whole new hobby. All my freight equipment is pretty much complete. These pieces are all keepers and it makes the cars blend in with everything else I'm doing.

Thanks DAVE, really neat stuff there.  One question, do you cover up the running lights both front and back,?  Anything else need be protected while spraying?  I have the same K-line Berk and am thinking of doin this type of weather job.  I just don't like that bright green in the B&A.

Thanks again and a job well done.

laz57

[PhilaKnight]

Bill,

 It's a Lionel Lionmaster. Just got it this week. Was looking for one for awhile. Found a old add of Grzyboski's with it in it. I e-mailed him and he said he still had it, so I bought it.

[Dave Connolly]

 Laz, I usually just put tape over the back up light, headlight, and cab glass. The marker lights I usually find a piece of shrink wrap that loosely fits the light. It's to small to apply tape to.  With an airbrush. Especially a double action. It takes quite a number of passes just to fade out the white numbers or lettering. Just take it slow and you will get get results.

 I have the green Berk as well. I to didn't care for the green paint job. But being a B&A fan and finally getting some engines I bought these as well as any others the manufactures put out. I couldn't understand why MTH didn't offer this scheme on their Premier Hudson. They painted the Gauge 1 in that scheme. I applied the same base colring to the green one as I did the black one. Really tones it down.

 I have a couple of Mohawks to do this winter. I'll try to take some photos of each step.

[FJ and G]

Here's the pot after 12 hours. It slipped easily out of the 2 pots, but it is still green. Should have probably left it in for a few days but I'm impatient.

The holes from aggregate can easily be filled in about a minute with vinyl patching cement. But they kind of look cool like swiss cheese. I poked some holes in the bottom for drainage. The pot could be painted or rubbed with Durham water putty to give it an adobe sort of look

[cnw1995]

Nice photos  - Tom, that's sure a sharp looking tinplate cable-car.

[kpolak]

Here's the pot after 12 hours. It slipped easily out of the 2 pots, but it is still green. Should have probably left it in for a few days but I'm impatient.

The holes from aggregate can easily be filled in about a minute with vinyl patching cement. But they kind of look cool like swiss cheese. I poked some holes in the bottom for drainage. The pot could be painted or rubbed with Durham water putty to give it an adobe sort of look

Dave,

Pot turned out great!  To reduce the airpockets try vibrating the sides of the plastic mould with a vibrating sander.

Kurt

[FJ and G]

Thanks, Kurt, I sort of like the swiss cheese look. Hole only go partway thru. I might try mixing golf balls into the next batch. LOL

 

BTW, did you know you can do this to make bridges and trains structures like buildings? Just make the right wood forms and use drywall screws so you can demold it. Plaster might be lighter for indoors, unless you're using 2x6 lumber for benchwork. 

[rtraincollector]

Well heres some of my engines as I was taking pics for records . that I have I don't really have a layout so figure would show some of what I have.

This is the Williams remake and I love it its a super quiet running engine. Has horn and Bells

 This si the 681RR I got a couple of weeks ago it runs like a champ have to get another tender for it a PA. one and then she will be set.

Heres my 2343's been thru a lot befor I got them but there top runners now. This set was brought into the hobby shop near where I lived when I lived in VA. I got them for $50.00 they looked like a kid played with them in the dirt. well I cleaned them up and sent them out for repair and about 3 weeks later have a good running set

 

Well thats my show for the week will post more probally as time goes on

[Anonymous]

Thanks, Kurt, I sort of like the swiss cheese look. Hole only go partway thru. I might try mixing golf balls into the next batch. LOL

 

BTW, did you know you can do this to make bridges and trains structures like buildings? Just make the right wood forms and use drywall screws so you can demold it. Plaster might be lighter for indoors, unless you're using 2x6 lumber for benchwork. 

Was thinking of doing something like this with plaster for a bridge on the new layout.  instead of using wood, I was going to use PVC pipe cut in half for the arches.  Then space them evenly and use 1/4 play for the sides.  Will probably use some small ribar to add aditional strength as well.  Also toyed with the idea of using homasote as an upperbase to use for securing the track, but concerned the homasote would deform due to the water in the plaster.  Then thought of using some PVC board to form a channel that a piece of homasote could be placed inside... that is probably the route I will go as I have some PVC board leftover from an exterior wood upgrade I did this past summer...