Smoke unit fade

[Anonymous]

sinkinpat,

Go to tastudios.com

they have a unit that will look like you are sending smoke signals. My neighbor just got his back from them and it is crazy how much smoke is coming out now. They remove the kettle and everything and replace it with a smoke board w/fan

mark

[Anonymous]

Forgot to mention it was 100 total. 50 for unit and 50 labor.

Looking at it I am convinced that any one that has a little knowledge about tinkering could instal it with no problem.

Mark

[JGozzo]

WOW!! I have learned some much from this thread, thanks to everyone. I know this has been beaten to death, however, since I have never taken a smoke unit apart. I have a few questions for you experts.

1) How does one remove the cap?

2) Does the sock over the resistor have to be replaced, after it has been removed?

3) Is the fiberglass in the insulation toxic?

4) Is it just good practice to overlay solder on the heating element before closing and does the cover just snap on?

5) Did anyone ever post a picture of what it is supposed to look like, after it has been repacked with the insulation?

6) is the yellowish insulation the same as the pink stuff?

7)Why can't Lionel do this BEFORE they ship these things out??

 

Thanks,

 

Joe

[ChiefEagles]

WOW!! I have learned some much from this thread, thanks to everyone. I know this has been beaten to death, however, since I have never taken a smoke unit apart. I have a few questions for you experts.

1) How does one remove the cap?

Unless it is one of the plastic sealed ones, the metal or plastic top can be removed by bending the tabs back and prying of the top. 

2) Does the sock over the resistor have to be replaced, after it has been removed?

NO, a big NO.  Works better without it.

3) Is the fiberglass in the insulation toxic?

nope

4) Is it just good practice to overlay solder on the heating element before closing and does the cover just snap on?

never heard of overlaying element with solder.  windings on eleemnt heat up and cause the smoke.  I don't and I can make it smoke.  Cover [metal for older ones, plastic for new ones] goes back on and "snaps" into place.  Now if it is the Polar Express type or older post war type, the lead from the power side can not touch metal.  The other side needs a good ground.  I've actually taken a small wire and extended the common [referred to by some as ground] side down to the frame on some engines.   

5) Did anyone ever post a picture of what it is supposed to look like, after it has been repacked with the insulation?

Think Buckeye did on a Polar Express unit several years ago.

6) is the yellowish insulation the same as the pink stuff?

not the same material.  replace it with pink.  Also teeky lantern wick has been suggeted.  Personally, never tried the wick.

7)Why can't Lionel do this BEFORE they ship these things out??

too hard headed.  Just like their fan driven units.  Lots of them have the fan turning counter clockwise.  Should turn clockwise.  They've been told but seems no one listens.

 

Thanks,

 

Joe

Good luck.

[lionelsoni]

Owens-Corning fiberglass would be yellow if not dyed pink.  The color is simply a trademark.

[JGozzo]

cheifeagles and Bob,

 I really appreciate the quick replies. Thanks so much!

 

Joe Gozzo

[JGozzo]

I got some really good feedback from this thread. Thanks again Cheifeagles and others, and wanted to attemp my smoke unit today. However, the thing that has really stood out here from all of you is, no matter wheather a person uses insulation or wicking, the hole in the bottom needs to be kept clear for the air coming through. my question is, how does one do this  by keeping the hole clear, but yet surrounding the element/resistor, with the packing material?

 

Thanks,

 

Joe Gozzo

[Jumijo]

 

There are two air holes in the PE smoke unit. Don't let them got covered over with insulation. The air holes are raised, so it's easy to put the insulation around them. I just placed my insulation between them.

Jim

[JGozzo]

Jumiho,

 

Thanks for the tip!!

 

Joe

[USNRol]

I got some really good feedback from this thread. Thanks again Cheifeagles and others, and wanted to attemp my smoke unit today. However, the thing that has really stood out here from all of you is, no matter wheather a person uses insulation or wicking, the hole in the bottom needs to be kept clear for the air coming through. my question is, how does one do this  by keeping the hole clear, but yet surrounding the element/resistor, with the packing material?

Thanks,

Joe Gozzo

Joe,
The hole needs to be unobstructed and I found having good physical contact between the element and the wicking material to be crucial.  You have to pack enough wicking so the element kinda pushes it down when you reinstall the cap but not so much wicking that air can't move around the element.  I've never had wicking on top of the element however...can anyone say whether that would be desirable?

I find most of the time with the PE stopped in nuetral the heavier-than-air smoke seeps down the vent holes and around the loose fitting puff piston and comes out the sides of the loco much like a prototype!  Love it when it's that good.

Roland