A westbound baretable departs Summit, Calif., dawn Saturday. Jim Wrinn photo
CAJON PASS, Calif. – I startle awake in my hotel room around 5 a.m. to a glowing green light on my smart phone lying next to the TV remote. I dismiss it as a late greeting from a pal or a message from my girlfriend that I can look at later. But something nags me to glance anyway. And there it is: My flight home to Milwaukee Saturday has been cancelled. I go immediately to wide awake and dial the customer service number at U.S. Airways. They can accommodate me tomorrow, but I press them for today: I’ve been on the road a week now, and I am ready to go home.
The agent comes up with an alternative, but it will cost me: My plan to spend most of this January day watching trains at Cajon Pass in the warm southern California sunshine and catch a late flight home is dashed. Instead of flying out at 4:40 p.m., now I have to be at the airport for a 12:30 p.m. flight. I still have to go through famous Cajon, subject of our February issue cover story that is available now, anyway. So I might as well get what I can of the place. Over cereal and yogurt in the hotel lobby, I run a quick calculation. If I get to Cajon at dawn, around 6:30 a.m., I can have 3, maybe 3 and a half hours of time at this sacred mountain pass, where BNSF Railway and Union Pacific share mainline track into the Los Angeles basin.
Taking David’s advice, I get off the main road and find a dirt road that looks like it leads to the tracks. What good is a rented SUV if you don’t take it somewhere to, as Brad Paisley says, “get a little mud on the tires”? The road is rough, but not so difficult that I fail to reach a convenient hillside perch overlooking the mainlines that are stacked one of top of each other like the layers of a cake. Signs implore visitors not to use the area for target practice, but shell casings and crushed beer cans prove that not everybody is paying attention or cares. Soon, a train arrives, and I determine that he will pop into the first rays of light as he works through a cut. It is the harbinger of good luck as a series of uphill and downhill trains parade in front of my location. I yearn to see one take the lowest track, bathed in gorgeous sunshine and snaking gently in front of me, but only one does, and it is a downhill train coming out of the sun.
As I cross the tracks one last time, I take a long look at the mainline, and suddenly realize I should have kept my eyes on the road: Two BNSF stack trains are paralleling each other up the grade. Surely, if I had just had another hour on the hill, they would have reached me in a glorious race, engines in notch 8, thundering upward and onward. I shake off the tempting spectacle and remind myself that I cannot be late for my flight. A full day at Cajon will have to wait until another day.
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