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Paggenger trains : Layouts & Rolling Stock-

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Paggenger trains : Layouts & Rolling Stock-
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 21, 2003 4:07 PM
[:(!] -This is my second try at getting this posted ! !.................................................... [8D][8D][8D] Okay all you passenger heads let's get movin' ! I think the reason you don't see more home layouts set in a passenger train / railroad type operation is - the lack of major rolling stock components that can sucessfully negotiate minimal radius turns ! . I am currently reworking my layout goals & arrangement to mimic a passenger head-end terminal with upper / lower arrival & departure tracks plus coach yard & facilities . Unfortunately , I'm not the richest man in the world [:(] . The space I have available is a former bedroom which is 10'x12' . Allowing for getting in the room & walking around this is tight . My min. radius = 18" , mainline turnouts = #6 , yard turnouts = #4 , & max. rad. = 24" .The problem comes with the currently modeled passenger cars . They are all in the 70'-85' range . This proto-typical or near prototypical lenght makes the negotiation of the curves very aduous . These cars not only don't look good ( or right ) going thru curves , there is also the derailment problem . Now , I've tried LifeLike's 60' pass. cars . They will work with some tweaking , but their problem is : the lack of details , the overall finish , & they only come with 4-wheel truck - fluted side stainless steel bodies . Iam currently working on taking some long IHC cars ( got 'em at a swap meet ) & Am cutting them down . I pick the most repeated detail on the sidebody , usually the windows and cut them out , while still leaving the intent or flavor of the equipment . I then , take the frame : remove the details & cut the frame to lenght . Next , I reassemble the whole thing to get a 65' plus/minus car . I've tried the shorties by Athearns & Con-Corr , but they don't look that good either . I'm now experimenting with Hvy. Wght. / 6-wheel truck style units . I think , if we can get together we can petion , request , demand ( ? ) whatever , that the manufacturers produce such models . If we can show them there is a demand in the marketplace for these models they will comply , Iam sure ( Hey ! manufacturers do you guys read this stuff ? ) . All they need to know is that they can make a profit on it . I mean they're in it for the money . So, if they see the $ $ $ , I'm sure we can get some interest . Let's get together & give it HELL ! If you have any other / more suggestions or ways of doing this ( getting the Manufacturers to move ) , please let me know . Also , if you have any Ideas on pass. rolling stock , please contact me . Give me an "E-mail" at psawyer@netnitco.net . Come on we can do this ! Passenger operations needs to have its say in this hibby also ! ! [^][^][^][:D][:D][;)] .Thanks for hearing me out ..............- Passengerhead Phil
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Posted by Jetrock on Tuesday, October 21, 2003 4:57 PM
A way to "cheat" when it comes to passenger lines in small spaces would be <trolley_nut>model interurban or trolley lines. If you like clerestory-roof wooden cars, model early interurban traction. If you like steel cars, model mid-period traction with lightweight steel. If you like streamliners, you can model the Electroliners or sleek PCC's. Interurbans let you have your cake and eat it too--lovely passenger depots, gorgeous observation cars and name-train drumheads (a couple of interurbans even ran sleeper cars!), and both urban and rural scenery--plus the rolling stock is often under 60 feet in length and curves as sharp as 6 inches.</trolley_nut> Of course, the tradeoffs include the laborious effort of stringing trolley wire, and either a big cash investment in brass trolley stuff or time investment in scratchbuilding or kitbashing rolling stock.

You could also model early passenger trains--old-time Overton cars had smaller dimensions and even the engines were typically smaller.
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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Tuesday, October 21, 2003 6:55 PM
I'd rehang the bedroom door so it opens outward, take out the closet door, and then do an around the wall layout with a duckunder or removable bridge at the door. With 2 1/2 foot deep benchwork you would still have plenty of space in the center to operate from and you could run 80 footers on 30 inch curves.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Posted by der5997 on Tuesday, October 21, 2003 8:02 PM
Sounds to me that you need to do what I did in your situation, change scale[:0] I'm in N now because I wanted as much railroad as I could get in a bedroom, and still see the wretched thing [:D]

Seriously, if you don't want to re-engineer the room components, as IRONROOSTER suggests, then you will have to re-engineer the trains. Seems to me those are your alternatives.
I actually did both, and was able to do so because I moved houses. My layout is IRONROOSTERS' shelf around the room, through the closset walls (actually the closets were not built in our renovation of the train bedroom) and the door is a pocket door for the same space saving reason IR gives. I cross the gap at the door on a module on casters, but a duck under or lift out section would work just fine.
Hope this helps.[8D]

"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.

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Posted by CP5415 on Tuesday, October 21, 2003 8:05 PM
Have you tried Athearn's passenger cars? They work well in tight curves.

Gordon

Brought to you by the letters C.P.R. as well as D&H!

 K1a - all the way

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Posted by dehusman on Tuesday, October 21, 2003 9:31 PM
On an Athearn car if you cut a piece of plastic sheet to the same slope as the center sill and glue it in the center of the car, you can have the look of a continous center sill, but it will not obstruct the trucks from turning.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 1:35 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by dehusman

On an Athearn car if you cut a piece of plastic sheet to the same slope as the center sill and glue it in the center of the car, you can have the look of a continous center sill, but it will not obstruct the trucks from turning.
Say Hey "dehehusman" - [8D] Your idea has got me going ! Can you expound a little more on what you were explaining about the center sill cut . Do I cut the sill in two , then glue the reinforcing strip back on too tie the two halves together ? I'm having a hard time imagining just exactly what you mean . Please advise.........[8D] [:D] - Phil
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 1:51 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by CP5415

Have you tried Athearn's passenger cars? They work well in tight curves.

Gordon
[8D] --- Hello Cp5415----[:D].....Thank for the bounce back . Been there ; done that . I still didn't like the looks of the Athearn's going around the 18' curve . Although I did find out ..... & its rather obvious ( sometime you have to hit me on the side of the head with a brick ) , that at slower speeds especially through yards / yard areas the reduced speed gives the car (s) time to react to the directional change . The only problematic situation is the "derail " at some ( not all ) turnouts or yard ladders . You know ( most likely don't ) , I'm still not use to this turnout switch thing , even after all these years . Damn , they were switches when I use to play 1: 1 ....... [;)]
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, October 22, 2003 1:56 AM
[8D][:D] --- Thanks for all the replies ... anyone else got any thing before I hack up this next car ?? CP5415 : I've got Athearn's car in hand & I'm ready to cut tell me where ! This razor saw thing gives me the feeling of .........."POWER" . [8D][:D]
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 23, 2003 1:35 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by dehusman

On an Athearn car if you cut a piece of plastic sheet to the same slope as the center sill and glue it in the center of the car, you can have the look of a continous center sill, but it will not obstruct the trucks from turning.
dehusman : can you give me some more details on this method it sounds good . Do I cut the car frame ? If I do : how about the car sides ? Don't quite understand everything I don't know about this ! Please advise . Thanks - Phil
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 23, 2003 3:09 PM
Personally, I use Roco cars. They look very good on 18" curves. Walthers carries a nice selection.
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Posted by dehusman on Thursday, October 23, 2003 4:01 PM
Look at an Athearn center sill. Just befor it gets to the trucks the center sil cuts off at a steep angle to clear the trucks.

Take a piece of .040 sheet plastic. Mark a piece about 1.4 in long (10 scale ft)and .285 in (2 scale ft) high. Cut it in half along the diagonal to form 2 triangles. Glue each one on the centerline of the car so it continues the profile of the center sill.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

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Posted by dehusman on Thursday, October 23, 2003 10:08 PM
If you go to :
http://davehusman.tripod.com
And go to the Rolling Stock Photo Album, the first picture will be several passenger cars.

The top one is a roundroof RPO kitbashed from Athearn cars. It doesn't have the modified center sill. Notice the right end of the centrer sill.

The bottom car is another kitbashed Athearn car with the modified center sill. Notice how the taper goes all the way to the truck bolster. If you look closely on the left end you can see the tapered piece. When you put the car on the tracks, its in the shadows and becomes invisible.

OBTW, if too many people try to access teh tripod site it will shut down and deny you access, if it does, wait a day or two and try again.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 24, 2003 10:56 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by dehusman

If you go to :
http://davehusman.tripod.com
And go to the Rolling Stock Photo Album, the first picture will be several passenger cars.

The top one is a roundroof RPO kitbashed from Athearn cars. It doesn't have the modified center sill. Notice the right end of the centrer sill.

The bottom car is another kitbashed Athearn car with the modified center sill. Notice how the taper goes all the way to the truck bolster. If you look closely on the left end you can see the tapered piece. When you put the car on the tracks, its in the shadows and becomes invisible.

OBTW, if too many people try to access teh tripod site it will shut down and deny you access, if it does, wait a day or two and try again.
Say Hey - Dave ! ! ! . . . . . . . . . Thanks for the Info. - Phil
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 24, 2003 11:32 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Scottydog

Personally, I use Roco cars. They look very good on 18" curves. Walthers carries a nice selection.
Scottybug . . . . . . . I've not tried the use of Rocco cars yet . Thanks for the tip - I'm digging out my Walthers book now ! I sure hope this works out : its starting to exceed my budget for research - $ $ $ . Isn't that the way it is " More time than money " . . . . . . . . . . Later , - Phil
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Posted by eastcoast on Tuesday, November 4, 2003 1:29 AM
I run all kinds of passenger products on my layout and do not have any problems.
Did you read the MR mag article about small pike-sized passenger trains?? I
found it to be very helpful since I model alot of passenger equipment. The key is to
have a plan about how you want to run these trains and make them seem longer
than they really are.
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Posted by CBQ_Guy on Tuesday, November 4, 2003 3:45 PM
I'm wondering how the MDC Harriman cars may work on his layout.
"Paul [Kossart] - The CB&Q Guy" [In Illinois] ~ Modeling the CB&Q and its fictional 'Illiniwek River-Subdivision-Branch Line' in the 1960's. ~
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, November 4, 2003 7:35 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by CBQ_Guy

I'm wondering how the MDC Harriman cars may work on his layout.

[8D] CBQ - sounds like this is my only viable option . Someone else also , suggested this . I'll have to do some research on it . I'm not that familiar with the Harriman Car Era . Thanks again ( and Thanks to all who have tried to HELP ) . [8D] [:D] [8D] [:D] Later , - Phil
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Posted by bluepuma on Friday, November 7, 2003 3:12 PM
Should have mentioned the scale, with N scale, 18 inch rad is great, I'm planning my main at least 11 inch radius, scale 85 ft. looks great from the inside. A good thing, the room is around 10.5 x 8.5. It would be a bit more cramped with a line of 1/50th scale PCC cars. I think I can build 32 -64 Sq. feet of RR!

Love passenger, have 5 sets, 5 car heavyweight, 8 car Lark, 8 car Daylight, 12 car Budd, 8 car Superliner, P42 sets, two PA/B sets, E7AB Set., E8AB set, F59PHI set, I just want to stage them all!

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