thats a good point randy
I think I will use the circuit I have now
so all I need to do is change the resistors lower and that will be awsome
thanks for taking time to post its much appreciated
I will have to find some brass looks like a $10 waste with the rossetes, wow was it hard to get the solder to stick but they will come off easy and the spot is tinned for the good ones
heck no harm no foul
it looks like the crossbuck is a lot smaller then this grade gate not sure if the buck may be N gauge but its half the size. I will try to post a photo of them together
K
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
here I made some bullseyes
its a little sloppy but all I had was steel/brass plated rosette's at like $1.50 each
Ken
I used to scratch build my electronics but that is not a good idea....Most of them will go out in the first year if they even work at all. You're better off purchasing pre-built circuits...I use a Dallee Train Detector Circuit and a Flasher circuit from Circuitron on my layout. Heres a few pictures of the complete set up and it will save you alot of time and money (if they don't work) rather than scratch built electronics.
Here is the flasher circuit. Top left: a Dallee DC filter. Bottom left: a Dallee Train Detection Circuit.
Middle right: An oscillating flasher circuit from Circuitron. and the rest are terminal strips and 370 ohm resistors that feed to the red LED's on the crossbucks.
Here the flashers are in action and it's real simple to wire. The lead wire from one of the two wires that power the train goes from the power source to the train detector with a couple of loops of wire passing thru the sensor on the Train detector circuit and back to the block's track that is insulated at both rails and at both ends of the block. The train enters the block, the train detector circuit senses the voltage drop from the locomotive's power usage drawn from the block. A relay is then closed and sets off the osillating flasher circuit which starts the crossbuck lights to alternate. When the train leaves the block, the voltage increases enough that the train detector senses it, the relay opens, and the circuit shuts itself off.
Really nice brass work. I was going to say that I've found brass at the TrueValue hardware store in Billerica, MA, but you've apparantly got your own supply. Thanks for the circuit, too. I've got to file that away for future reference. I'm still terraforming, so it will be a while before I put in things like signals and grade crossings.
I really like NJ International. They've got a number of unique items. They were at Springfield last winter, and I picked up a semaphore and a set of end gates for my subway cars.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I do remeber a model railroad write up
where they give instruction on how to make a cross buck 'they used some brass washers and I think it was in N gauge
used same tubing , I have a two led flashing circut I put togetther, but its on a crossing gate
here is where I got that http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/Flashers.html
I was thinking of using 2 556 timer's to make a two track flasher
like there Push-Pull - Crossing Light Flasher
here
as I dont see the setup for 3 sincronized
I will add the extra support like in the OP. I may have to move that center support its over a bit too much to the right.
did come out ok for a 2 night project
I can respect the fine work on the NJ unit walthers has coming out takes hard work to get the model to look just right
ps that wood one saves me a lot of time making that was a good idea
Hey budliner,
I like the last photo alot! looks really good. i might try and make one sometime in the future if i can find a place that has the materials for sale. I would like to see a finished product photo if it would be too much trouble when your done
Looks great again
Chris
guess no one like's my crossing sign
here's my last photo
no sense posting to thin air
later
check out this stand I made
hey what the heck its my first time with brass tube
home made
ken
I got my brass parts
and its not to bad to work with
I have a flasher and I think I will set it up on here
check out my solder job
well looks like I will have one made of wood
but I did order some brass rods from Penn Valley Hobby Center
each under $1
that's a good point dave
if I do than I'll have some size comparison's
thank you don, I will have to bring this aluminum back to the craft store, I was just 2 seconds from chopping them up into little bits
Don Gibson wrote: " I picked up some aluminum rods, cant find brass Better to find brass. Aluminum doesn't solder.
" I picked up some aluminum rods, cant find brass
I picked up some aluminum rods, cant find brass
Better to find brass. Aluminum doesn't solder.
oh no.............
wow chutton01
thanks for that fast responce.
I was thinking that sounds just right.
I will have to do some math to get my sizes correct
but I will have to see if I can find the one's your talking abought
yes you are correct, that one in the photo, I did not get the high bid and missed it, but it just looks so cool ..
and not that hard to make or so it looks
I will have to find the NJ International one just released
(edit here it is)
thanks
Um, isn't that a highway crossing signal you have there? Or is it a picture of some one elses.
Well, assuming you're not gonna use either the NJ International one just released, or the Wathers one coming up next month, from a 2001 RMC article I have the verticle pole is 5" long 5/32nd brass tubing.The scale measurements of the modelled signal:
22'6" from base of verticle pole to top (under final); 17' 61/2" From base to bottom of cantilevered part; 42" from top of cantilever walkway surface to top of walkway safety railing.
I want to make one for myself
but I dont have a size to work with
I was thinking the hight of a telephone pole like 4 "
what's a good size for this project?