Painting

[bogp40]

QUOTE: Originally posted by BentnoseWillie

I paint almost exclusively with acrylics - mainly Polly Scale, but I also use ModelFlex, Testors acrylic, and Tamiya as needed. I generally thin with Polly S Airbru***hinner or distilled water, in that order.

The best masking tape I've found is made by Tamiya. It's very low-tack and very thin and flexible - I think it's made from rice paper. I also have used 3M Automotive Refinishing masking tape (available at auto parts stores that carry painting supplies), but greatly prefer Tamiya.

It's essential to get a good seal - I usually burnish down the edge of the tape carefully, and when in doubt use a quick spray of teh first colour to seal the tape before spraying the second colour.

I was going to recommend the 3M Fineline tape, which is what I like to use. But now I will have to try the Tamiya tape.
Thanks, Bob K.

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys. I try these suggestions.

[BentnoseWillie]

I paint almost exclusively with acrylics - mainly Polly Scale, but I also use ModelFlex, Testors acrylic, and Tamiya as needed. I generally thin with Polly S Airbru***hinner or distilled water, in that order.

The best masking tape I've found is made by Tamiya. It's very low-tack and very thin and flexible - I think it's made from rice paper. I also have used 3M Automotive Refinishing masking tape (available at auto parts stores that carry painting supplies), but greatly prefer Tamiya.

It's essential to get a good seal - I usually burnish down the edge of the tape carefully, and when in doubt use a quick spray of teh first colour to seal the tape before spraying the second colour.

[Anonymous]

I use 3M Drafting Tape as it does not stick as much as masking tape does which should lead to paint not lifting off when the tape is pulled off. I also put the tape down on a sheet of glass and cut the tape with an X-acto knife to get rid of the fuzzy edge.

After the tape is down I will go over the edge with the color that was covered up in order to seal the edge of the tape and prevent bleeding of the overspray color. For example if the first color is yellow I will spray the edge with yellow and then when dry spray the over coat of black. This should get you a good color separation.

I have used mostly Floquil Regular for my plastic models and Scalecoat I for my brass models. I am going to try Scalecoat II for plastic.

Rick

[cwclark]

I use 3M masking tape, (let the last coat dry overnight before re-masking to spray something else) ....I use a Badger single action air brush with a campbell / housfield 2 gallon tank 100 psi compressor with a regulator set at 25 psi and a moisture trap filter in the line...I use Floquil paints and Poly S paints...mixed 75% paint / 25% thinner (i just used my first and last Scalecoat paint..what a mess that stuff makes..i could have brush painted it on and made it look better.)......Chuck

[Anonymous]

Look for plastic type masking tape in the model car or model airplane sections at a hobby shop. They come in different widths. Pactra is another brand that makes 1/6" wide to 1/2" wide masking tape for models.
Regular masking tape has strong adhesive and has a somewhat corrugated edge.
I use mostly Floquil paints and some Polyscale. Here's a link for another source for Gunze Sangyo Paints.

[Anonymous]

I have two questions. I have started to custom paint some of my engines and have had a problem finding a tape that I can mask with that will stick without taking the paint off or allowing paint to seep under the edges. Let me have some idea's of what you use. Also, what brands of paint do you use for airbrushing? I like Gunze paints but my local hobby shop has closed and I have to find another source. I like it because I can thin it with alcohol and it sprays well in the airbrush.