Ray Breyer
Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943
QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy [br. Now, there IS one tape that WILL work. 3M makes a double sided tape that's used to laminate aircraft skin to the body (didn't know that stuff was TAPED on, did ya?). That 3M tape will hold ANYTHING. Unfortunately for us modelers, the stuff is only available in 1000-foot rolls, and is Uber-expensive.
QUOTE: Originally posted by johncolley I use clear silicone adhesive calk and it is great! I allows you to move things easily if you need to change later, and holds well.
Joe Fugate Modeling the 1980s SP Siskiyou Line in southern Oregon
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
QUOTE: Originally posted by simon1966 Didn't Model RR have an article about using "Topper Tape" or some such name. I think it was a double sided tape used with truck tops in some way? Yes, here is the link to the articel on the MRR web site http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/004/379dcjrm.asp
QUOTE: Originally posted by jfugate QUOTE: Originally posted by johncolley I use clear silicone adhesive calk and it is great! I allows you to move things easily if you need to change later, and holds well. John's idea is similar to mine: I use gray latex caulk. It's less smelly than the silicon stuff, and it's roughly the same color as the ballast, so it's easy to cover up. And like John says, if you need to make any changes (or repairs), a putty knife will pull up the track without too much pain!
QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy QUOTE: Originally posted by simon1966 Didn't Model RR have an article about using "Topper Tape" or some such name. I think it was a double sided tape used with truck tops in some way? Yes, here is the link to the articel on the MRR web site http://www.trains.com/Content/Dynamic/Articles/000/000/004/379dcjrm.asp Simon, Topper tape is single sided foam tape. You still have to use some sort of adhesive to affix the track. The author of the MR article used caulk.
Unfortunately, gravity and humidity attacked the tape, and within a month the track was popping up all over. Using a heat gun to "activate" the adhesive on the tape didn't work either: it either did nothing, or the glue bubbled through the ballast. Needless to say, I'm against the use of tapes to lay track. Was it the kind of tape that looks like tiny fishnetting when you peel off the backing? I would think that the ballast, being held with bonding agent, would keep the track from coming up if the tape did happen to come loose. That was why I only put a thin strip down the middle of the roadbed, in case that very thing occurred. I figured there was still enough exposed surface on the roadbed to provide adequate bonding surface for the ballast. Is this how you did it on your module? Reply Edit rockythegoat Member sinceOctober 2004 From: Central Illinois 147 posts Posted by rockythegoat on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 10:42 AM I have used double sided tape in the past (3M and one I can't remember) and did not have good luck with it. The track shifted position and popped up. I would cast my vote for the Latex Caulk. I've some on a test track to see what I want to use on my new layout, and so far, no failure. President and CEO Lake Superior Railway & Navigation Reply orsonroy Member sinceMarch 2002 From: Elgin, IL 3,677 posts Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 11:17 AM QUOTE: Originally posted by mktrains Watch out for silicone. Subsequent glue (e.g., for ballast) and paint won't stick to it. Latex is more friendly for other things on top of that. Wrong. I've got 100 feet of track laid on my second level, using nothing but silicone caulk. My ballast is holding to it just fine. Of course, I let the silicone offgass for well over a month before I actually added ballast. Ray Breyer Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943 Reply orsonroy Member sinceMarch 2002 From: Elgin, IL 3,677 posts Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 11:21 AM QUOTE: Originally posted by yankeejwb Was it the kind of tape that looks like tiny fishnetting when you peel off the backing? Yep; that's the stuff. QUOTE: I would think that the ballast, being held with bonding agent, would keep the track from coming up if the tape did happen to come loose. That was why I only put a thin strip down the middle of the roadbed, in case that very thing occurred. I figured there was still enough exposed surface on the roadbed to provide adequate bonding surface for the ballast. Is this how you did it on your module? Actually, no. I figured that since the tape was an adhesive anyway, I'd try adding dry ballast directly to the tape to see what happened. I laid enough tape to simulate the entire ballast profile, added the track, and added ballast right away. That's why I commented that I ended up with the most realistic N scale ballasting job I've ever seen. Only the ballast dust really held, giving ne a correct-scale ballast look (most people use ballast that's WAY too big to be in scale), and the edges were nice and straight (I model the steam era when railroads took bride in a perfect ballast profile). Ray Breyer Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943 Reply Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 12:11 PM Well, in your opinion, do you think the method I described will hold up? Reply Edit challenger3802 Member sinceNovember 2004 From: Kent, England 348 posts Posted by challenger3802 on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 1:50 PM My track is laid down on 5mm cork, fixed into position with drawing pins (temporary measure). then the (infamous) 50/50 mix is poured in gently between the rails. When this mixture is dry the drawing pins are removed and the track is exactly where I want it. Ian Reply orsonroy Member sinceMarch 2002 From: Elgin, IL 3,677 posts Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 1:59 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by yankeejwb Well, in your opinion, do you think the method I described will hold up? In a word, no. Tape os OK to check temporary track geometry for relatively complex trackwork, and might even excel in that department (draw in your centerlines, add tape, cut & fit track to get what you want, remove the track, add adhesive, lay track). But tape is no darned good for permanently laying track for normal model RR use (well, except for that aforementioned 3M aircraft stuff). If you want a no glue, no nail method of laing track, I'd follow Ian's advise above. While I prefer something a bit more solid, I do let my switches "float", only hend down by track around them and by a bit of ballast glue. Ray Breyer Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943 Reply Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 2:12 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy QUOTE: Originally posted by mktrains Watch out for silicone. Subsequent glue (e.g., for ballast) and paint won't stick to it. Latex is more friendly for other things on top of that. Wrong. I've got 100 feet of track laid on my second level, using nothing but silicone caulk. My ballast is holding to it just fine. Of course, I let the silicone offgass for well over a month before I actually added ballast. You must have used silicone with latex mixed in. Pure silicone like the GE stuff at Home Depot will shed anything stuck on top of it, paint, glue, etc., even if you waited months. I can't get normal glue to stick to silicone (GE stuff at HD). It's a fact that hardly anything sticks to pure silicone. Reply Edit dinwitty Member sinceAugust 2004 2,844 posts Posted by dinwitty on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 10:10 PM spikes on homasote, no glue, no hammering. Reply Subscriber & Member Login Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more! Login Register Users Online There are no community member online Search the Community ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT Model Railroader Newsletter See all Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox! Sign up
Was it the kind of tape that looks like tiny fishnetting when you peel off the backing? I would think that the ballast, being held with bonding agent, would keep the track from coming up if the tape did happen to come loose. That was why I only put a thin strip down the middle of the roadbed, in case that very thing occurred. I figured there was still enough exposed surface on the roadbed to provide adequate bonding surface for the ballast. Is this how you did it on your module? Reply Edit rockythegoat Member sinceOctober 2004 From: Central Illinois 147 posts Posted by rockythegoat on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 10:42 AM I have used double sided tape in the past (3M and one I can't remember) and did not have good luck with it. The track shifted position and popped up. I would cast my vote for the Latex Caulk. I've some on a test track to see what I want to use on my new layout, and so far, no failure. President and CEO Lake Superior Railway & Navigation Reply orsonroy Member sinceMarch 2002 From: Elgin, IL 3,677 posts Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 11:17 AM QUOTE: Originally posted by mktrains Watch out for silicone. Subsequent glue (e.g., for ballast) and paint won't stick to it. Latex is more friendly for other things on top of that. Wrong. I've got 100 feet of track laid on my second level, using nothing but silicone caulk. My ballast is holding to it just fine. Of course, I let the silicone offgass for well over a month before I actually added ballast. Ray Breyer Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943 Reply orsonroy Member sinceMarch 2002 From: Elgin, IL 3,677 posts Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 11:21 AM QUOTE: Originally posted by yankeejwb Was it the kind of tape that looks like tiny fishnetting when you peel off the backing? Yep; that's the stuff. QUOTE: I would think that the ballast, being held with bonding agent, would keep the track from coming up if the tape did happen to come loose. That was why I only put a thin strip down the middle of the roadbed, in case that very thing occurred. I figured there was still enough exposed surface on the roadbed to provide adequate bonding surface for the ballast. Is this how you did it on your module? Actually, no. I figured that since the tape was an adhesive anyway, I'd try adding dry ballast directly to the tape to see what happened. I laid enough tape to simulate the entire ballast profile, added the track, and added ballast right away. That's why I commented that I ended up with the most realistic N scale ballasting job I've ever seen. Only the ballast dust really held, giving ne a correct-scale ballast look (most people use ballast that's WAY too big to be in scale), and the edges were nice and straight (I model the steam era when railroads took bride in a perfect ballast profile). Ray Breyer Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943 Reply Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 12:11 PM Well, in your opinion, do you think the method I described will hold up? Reply Edit challenger3802 Member sinceNovember 2004 From: Kent, England 348 posts Posted by challenger3802 on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 1:50 PM My track is laid down on 5mm cork, fixed into position with drawing pins (temporary measure). then the (infamous) 50/50 mix is poured in gently between the rails. When this mixture is dry the drawing pins are removed and the track is exactly where I want it. Ian Reply orsonroy Member sinceMarch 2002 From: Elgin, IL 3,677 posts Posted by orsonroy on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 1:59 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by yankeejwb Well, in your opinion, do you think the method I described will hold up? In a word, no. Tape os OK to check temporary track geometry for relatively complex trackwork, and might even excel in that department (draw in your centerlines, add tape, cut & fit track to get what you want, remove the track, add adhesive, lay track). But tape is no darned good for permanently laying track for normal model RR use (well, except for that aforementioned 3M aircraft stuff). If you want a no glue, no nail method of laing track, I'd follow Ian's advise above. While I prefer something a bit more solid, I do let my switches "float", only hend down by track around them and by a bit of ballast glue. Ray Breyer Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943 Reply Anonymous Member sinceApril 2003 305,205 posts Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 2:12 PM QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy QUOTE: Originally posted by mktrains Watch out for silicone. Subsequent glue (e.g., for ballast) and paint won't stick to it. Latex is more friendly for other things on top of that. Wrong. I've got 100 feet of track laid on my second level, using nothing but silicone caulk. My ballast is holding to it just fine. Of course, I let the silicone offgass for well over a month before I actually added ballast. You must have used silicone with latex mixed in. Pure silicone like the GE stuff at Home Depot will shed anything stuck on top of it, paint, glue, etc., even if you waited months. I can't get normal glue to stick to silicone (GE stuff at HD). It's a fact that hardly anything sticks to pure silicone. Reply Edit dinwitty Member sinceAugust 2004 2,844 posts Posted by dinwitty on Tuesday, February 8, 2005 10:10 PM spikes on homasote, no glue, no hammering. Reply Subscriber & Member Login Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more! Login Register Users Online There are no community member online Search the Community ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT Model Railroader Newsletter See all Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox! Sign up
QUOTE: Originally posted by mktrains Watch out for silicone. Subsequent glue (e.g., for ballast) and paint won't stick to it. Latex is more friendly for other things on top of that.
QUOTE: Originally posted by yankeejwb Was it the kind of tape that looks like tiny fishnetting when you peel off the backing?
QUOTE: I would think that the ballast, being held with bonding agent, would keep the track from coming up if the tape did happen to come loose. That was why I only put a thin strip down the middle of the roadbed, in case that very thing occurred. I figured there was still enough exposed surface on the roadbed to provide adequate bonding surface for the ballast. Is this how you did it on your module?
QUOTE: Originally posted by yankeejwb Well, in your opinion, do you think the method I described will hold up?
QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy QUOTE: Originally posted by mktrains Watch out for silicone. Subsequent glue (e.g., for ballast) and paint won't stick to it. Latex is more friendly for other things on top of that. Wrong. I've got 100 feet of track laid on my second level, using nothing but silicone caulk. My ballast is holding to it just fine. Of course, I let the silicone offgass for well over a month before I actually added ballast.