Overmod RDC1 Power Torques can be upgraded with strong slot car magnets; add an additional Power Torque to the rear of the Tyco shell, and you'll have a great running, classic locomotive. It's a much easier upgrade, and they pull VERY well. But remember the OP clarified that he has the MU-2 and not the Power Torque. Are you saying he should find and add compatible Power Torque units to a chassis designed for MU-2s, or add a rebuilt Power Torque to what he has? I continue to agree that if he plans to do anything to detail the shell, he'd be best off with the Hobbytown replacement chassis.
RDC1 Power Torques can be upgraded with strong slot car magnets; add an additional Power Torque to the rear of the Tyco shell, and you'll have a great running, classic locomotive. It's a much easier upgrade, and they pull VERY well.
But remember the OP clarified that he has the MU-2 and not the Power Torque.
Are you saying he should find and add compatible Power Torque units to a chassis designed for MU-2s, or add a rebuilt Power Torque to what he has?
I continue to agree that if he plans to do anything to detail the shell, he'd be best off with the Hobbytown replacement chassis.
The Tyco chassis in question accepts the Power Torque and MU2 motors without any need for alterations. THEY ARE INTERCHANGEABLE. Adding a powered truck to the rear increases the pulling capability of the locomotive. No need to make irreversible changes by adding a different brand's drive system, unless the objective is to make the project more difficult and costly than it has to be.
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
The rear of the C-430 does not appear to be wide enough to accept the MU-2.
If there is a cracked plastic wheel, you should plan on replacing it. I see the loco runs and doesn't derail, so maybe it's not pressing.
It appears the motor is drawing too much current. I think the power truck needs examination. The most obvious problem would be lack of lubrication. Second might be lots and lots of fuzz clogging things up.
It looks like you just spread the sides of the body and the power truck drops out (with wires still attached, I guess). I'd try that and see what I see.
It seems unlikely but possible that it's the power pack that's at fault.
Ed