In a previous discussion I mentioned I bought a tyco mantua spirit of 76 from a train show
after thinking on it for awhile I figured the best course of action is to remove and replace the existing power torque system with something newer and more reliable
any suggestions on how to do This?
First of all, I would say that this will require money and effort. If this is for sentimental value, or if you have time and money to spare, that's fine. Otherwise, be prepared to sink in the price of another loco, basically. There is always the shelf queen option, or the dummy engine on your layout.
That being said, if you want to change the drivetrain (the best option if you have the truck-motor type in your engine), the easiest way is to find a donor engine that is similar in type and size. You will basically swap the frame, motor and drivetrain. This page may help you find what the type of engine you have:
https://tycotrain.tripod.com/tycotrains/id22.html
Identify the engine, and find an equivalent Athearn engine. Check the internet for size information. A well-shelved local hobby shop is a goldmine for these projects - especially if the owner is open to help you find a donor engine. You may have do to a bit of grinding to make it fit...
Mel, a member of this forum, has excellent pictures on how to make the shells fit using nuts and screws.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/277807/3179182.aspx
Simon
LouisvilleandnashvilleforeverIn a previous discussion I mentioned I bought a tyco mantua spirit of 76 from a train show
I do not recall if you specified this in your previous post.
Tyco made at least three models that were marketed as "Spirit Of 76".
One was a 4-6-0 steam locomotive, and then an F unit diesel and an Alco diesel. There very well could have been more examples.
It would be a different answer for each of these.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I believe the OPs earlier video answers that question, Kevin...
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
tstageI believe the OPs earlier video answers that question, Kevin..
I cannot view the video for some reason. I get this error message.
This is unusual. I rarely have video problems on the forum.
Henry provide the the direct link later on in the thread. Kevin. Here it is re-posted:
Looks like the more modern diesel...
Tom
Yes, seems to match the Alco Century 430 from the link provided above.
Another thread of interest (just ignore the bad mouthing about Tyco):
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/48851.aspx?page=1
And DCC installation!
https://tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/1502
snjroy Mel, a member of this forum, has excellent pictures on how to make the shells fit using nuts and screws. http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/277807/3179182.aspx Simon
The older Blue Box Athearn frames are easily kitbashed to change the length. To fit the Rivarossi Krauss Maffei shell to the Athearn PA frame I cut the frame and extended it about a half inch.
The Athearn six wheel trucks are nothing close to the Krauss Maffei trucks but I’m not a rivet counter so close enough works for me.Since most HO equipment is assembled with metric screws I stock most smaller sizes of metric hardware, M2 to M3.5 and several sizes of K&S Brass Strips.I even build up frames for my Rivarossi articulateds.
This brass frame will be fitted with a pair of motors replacing the original motor.
Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
A few years ago, I found an old Tyco EMD F7 loco in one of my storage boxes and I think it is the first HO scale loco I've ever owned (late 1960's). I thought it would be fun to include it on my current layout and so repainted the shell to ATSF freight livery and, after cleaning out the power truck, adding a basic DCC decoder. Unfortunately, the power truck gave out after only a couple months use. Not wanting to put another dime into this loco, it is now a shelf queen. Maybe if I find another power truck I'll try to get it running again but I doubt it as it will never run as well as my newer locos.
Hornblower
snjroyYes, seems to match the Alco Century 430 from the link provided above.
That is the Tyco Alco Century 430 model.
Interesting prototype choice for a train set since only 16 were made in real life.
Atlas made a Yellow Box Century 425 model. If someone can verify these have the same wheelbase, that would be the donor mechanism I would hunt down.
hornblowerNot wanting to put another dime into this loco, it is now a shelf queen. Maybe if I find another power truck I'll try to get it running again but I doubt it as it will never run as well as my newer locos.
I used a Proto-Power-West chassis under my Tyco F unit. It runs great, but they are not DCC friendly.
If it were up to me, I would replace the drive train with a Hobbytown of Boston universal chassis, it is designed to easily be adjusted to whatever length is needed and can be easily adapted to the the Tyco C430. I have one that I was going to make up until Bowser did the C430.
https://hobbytownofboston.com/?page_id=61
Just my
Rick Jesionowski
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
dti406 Hobbytown of Boston universal chassis
Thank Rick.
I did not know Hobbytown Of Boston was still making drive kits.
Given the prices these get on eBay, their catalogue seems like a bargain.
I second Rick. Hobbytown is back doing business and their chassis are some of the best available.Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
SeeYou190 dti406 Hobbytown of Boston universal chassis Thank Rick. I did not know Hobbytown Of Boston was still making drive kits. Given the prices these get on eBay, their catalogue seems like a bargain. -Kevin
Nick, the owner is an active contributor on the Repower and Regearing group on Groups.IO
I agree with Rick the Hobbytown Drive Chassis is the best choice.
77408A Power Chassis Kit, 4 Axle AAR B Trucks, w/Flywheel Drive
If I recall the instructions with this kit include suggestions about how to adapt the Tyco Shell and chassis to fit, not difficult if you have some modeling experience. Nick at Hobbytown is good to work with ,but he has a full time job so he deals with Hobbytown after his job.
Ron High
SeeYou190I used a Proto-Power-West chassis under my Tyco F unit. It runs great, but they are not DCC friendly.
Yes, but they are very easy to convert to DCC. As the motor brushes are already isolated from the chassis.
Dan
The easiest conversion would be to swap out the PT drive with the older MU-2 drive. The C430 shell was originally made to fit the Mantua MU-2 power truck, which uses a much larger and more reliable motor. If you can find that or a donor engine to take it from, it'll be a direct fit!
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Darth Santa Fe The easiest conversion would be to swap out the PT drive with the older MU-2 drive. The C430 shell was originally made to fit the Mantua MU-2 power truck, which uses a much larger and more reliable motor. If you can find that or a donor engine to take it from, it'll be a direct fit!
His is the only voice of sanity regarding the OP's repower inquiry. This suggestion is the cheapest, easiest, and most compatible way to go. Zero alterations to the shell and frame are required.
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
Jumijo Darth Santa Fe The easiest conversion would be to swap out the PT drive with the older MU-2 drive. The C430 shell was originally made to fit the Mantua MU-2 power truck, which uses a much larger and more reliable motor. If you can find that or a donor engine to take it from, it'll be a direct fit! His is the only voice of sanity regarding the OP's repower inquiry. This suggestion is the cheapest, easiest, and most compatible way to go. Zero alterations to the shell and frame are required.
True, the early productions of the MU-2 were the best, but all of them are better than the Power Torque. Even the later ones made by Roco for Tyco are good runners once you replace the weak original magnet.
The Hobbytown suggestion is also a great one of course. I've ordered a number of them since Nick restarted the company, and they're all great runners!
I think this is the best way to go about it
i would like to use as much of the original engine as I can without a lot of extra modifications
i can call my local shop to see if they have either the motor or a diner locomotive available
eBay is littered with old Tycos with the MU drive. They are not difficult to find and are not expensive.
A little update on my situation
as it turns out the drive was an mu2 and not a power torque
i blame that mishap on the fact that I didn't have a power torque to compare it to
also while examining the power truck I noticed a crack in one of 5he wheels
not the copper pick up wheels but the black ones
perhaps this may be the issue?
I would post a picture I took But I can't figure out how to do it
Does anyone have a picture of this MU-2 power truck? I'd like to see what it looks like. Dan
Google it.
Its the truck style thats also used in their mini trolleys...an open frame motor with two worms on each side connects directly to two worm axle gears on the two driver wheels.
found on the internet.
Having the mu2 truck over a power torque doesnt change anything. It's still a terrible drive and should be replaced.
I replaced my mu2 truck in my tyco trolley with a bachmann truck I had laying around, if it helps you can try this! Although you would still only have one truck powered, not ideal.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/255962.aspx
Charles
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Modeling the Santa Fe & Pennsylvania in HO
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLb3FRqukolAtnD1khrb6lQ
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Thank you. I forgot about HO Seeker.
A power truck can be much better than a PowerTorque, and still leave plenty of room to be lousy! Dan
I just watched the video from your other post, and I'm thinking the commutator on the motor could have a bunch of carbon buildup that's shorting out. If you can take the brushes out to get to the commutator, you may be able to clean the gunk off. An X-acto knife can be used to clean out the thin spaces between the commutator segments.
Power Torques can be upgraded with strong slot car magnets; add an additional Power Torque to the rear of the Tyco shell, and you'll have a great running, classic locomotive. It's a much easier upgrade, and they pull VERY well.
RDC1Power Torques can be upgraded with strong slot car magnets; add an additional Power Torque to the rear of the Tyco shell, and you'll have a great running, classic locomotive. It's a much easier upgrade, and they pull VERY well.
Are you saying he should find and add compatible Power Torque units to a chassis designed for MU-2s, or add a rebuilt Power Torque to what he has?
I continue to agree that if he plans to do anything to detail the shell, he'd be best off with the Hobbytown replacement chassis.