well, got my return approved. now I just have to find a replacement.
UPS has not given any updates and the claim has disappeared from the dashboard. I still can find it, but I can't do anything...
I've seen that happen with brass train boxes, start out low but are auctions so some people probably bought some really pricy foam and carboard.
That'll be quite alright if you get to keep the engine , no?
I decided that the seller, not being a mrr wouldn't have spotted the flaws, and upon closer inspection, it wasn't missing details, they were never there on that early version . It's actually in pretty good shape for a 55 year old plastic body model. I have the missing front wheel rim and can make the drive shaft. I'm good with it.
Simon, I almost fell for that empty box trick once. That would have been some EXPENSIVE air! Dan
Southgate 2 You're not alone. I just recieved an Ebay item, Pocher (late 60's AHM-Riv.) JW Bowker, described as "Looks unused?" The question mark leaving a little room for error. Single blurry picture on description of reflective cello window hides a missing front wheel and drive line, obvious when holding it in hand. And that, I noticed before opening it up further and finding other obvious signs of wear and minor breakage-damage. Sez seller doesn't take returns, but I contacted him to request a partial refund. We'll see... Dan
You're not alone. I just recieved an Ebay item, Pocher (late 60's AHM-Riv.) JW Bowker, described as "Looks unused?" The question mark leaving a little room for error. Single blurry picture on description of reflective cello window hides a missing front wheel and drive line, obvious when holding it in hand. And that, I noticed before opening it up further and finding other obvious signs of wear and minor breakage-damage.
Sez seller doesn't take returns, but I contacted him to request a partial refund. We'll see... Dan
Simon
Alright everybody, I filed a claim with UPS 2 days ago. Hopefully this goes well. I only claimed 150 dollars though.
It's normal for detail parts to fall off. Not normal for big pieces of the cab to spall off.
BIN is eBay-speak for 'Buy it Now'. You're not supposed to reach a transaction outside the eBay system, so one way to buy something immediately is to agree with the seller on a price, and he then lists the item as 'Buy it Now' at that price... and lets you know so you'll be the first to pounce when it appears.
For sure, the damage is there. A partial refund is justifiable. Don't wait too long if you are going that route... I agree with Kevin, as is, it's probably worth 100$.
Installing a vestibule cab, such as the one from Precision Scale, will address the cab issue.
We can't help much about the drawbar... But I can't see that as being overly difficult. The fact that is runs is the bottom line!
Drawbar was not visible in photos, but there were fragments in the box. Also, what is a BIN?
Just for reference the same seller sold one with original tender but with a few detail parts fallen off/broken(bell and mount, one of the holders for the bell pull, whistle, tender footboards) for 165 dollars
Part of what this comes down to is whether the broken drawbar is visible in any of the listing photos. Seller is likely to say 'this was a project and the original drawbar would likely have to be replaced' if it can be seen damaged in pictures.
If it was NOT broken, he should ask for a refund and have the seller go after UPS for whatever part of the $200, shipping and fees the seller insured it for.
Then see if the seller will do a BIN for a better agreed price for the damaged item if UPS lets the seller keep it and he will sell to you.
Steven2007It runs although I have to have it drag the PCB behind it on the track.
In that case, if it is something you really want to work on, I think a 50% refund is appropriate.
If it is not a project you want to take on, I would return it for a full refund.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
It runs although I have to have it drag the PCB behind it on the track(Remember the tender is from a Rivarossi Y6b and I havent gotten around to converting it yet)
Steven2007Any reccomended putty? I don't have much experience building models with anything except cement.
You will get a lot of different answers to this one. I like Bondo spot filler for small spots and hiding seams. I use Milliput Yellow/Gray for filling.
Steven2007About how much should i ask for a refund?
I would ask for 50% if you can verify the model still runs OK. If running condition cannot be confirmed, I would ask for a full refund.
The description said "used", not "inoperative".
Any reccomended putty? I don't have much experience building models with anything except cement. Also, about how much should i ask for a refund?
Steven, send the pictures to the seller via eBay and ask for a partial refund based on the damages in shipping that could have been avoided if it was properly packaged for shipment.
I had a run of three consecutive locomotives I bought on eBay that all arrived damaged. I was able to get full or fair partial refunds on all of them.
Steven2007How do I fix the cab? I am missing some of the fragments of the front side.
Glue together what you have, and fill with putty. Sand smooth and paint to match.
How do I fix the cab? I am missing some of the fragments of the front side
The cab damage does not look too bad. The sides, which are the most visible parts seem to be intact.
snjroy If it was described as being in "good running condition", for sure you should consider returning. Of course, you could be the stubborn type like me and see this as a challenge. The full-weather cab idea kinda settles the broken cab debate. For the drawbar, because it was adapted to a Rivarossi, getting an "original" part might not be the best solution. Can you post a picture? Is it just the bar or the connecting parts that broke? Maybe you can make another one. Simon
If it was described as being in "good running condition", for sure you should consider returning.
Of course, you could be the stubborn type like me and see this as a challenge. The full-weather cab idea kinda settles the broken cab debate. For the drawbar, because it was adapted to a Rivarossi, getting an "original" part might not be the best solution. Can you post a picture? Is it just the bar or the connecting parts that broke? Maybe you can make another one.
I enjoy a challenge as much as the next, but not when ive paid $200 for an engine!
And yes, obviously some sell for more, Ive seen some sold for $350! My price range was to say how low you can generally get them for.
The cab is fixable. Id just make a new drawbar with some brass sheet and a drill. Its certainty possible to fix but personally Id get my $200 back.
Let us know how it turns out either way!
Charles
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Modeling the PRR & NYC in HO
Youtube Channel: www.youtube.com/@trainman440
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Cab fixable.
Description on ebay:
Norfolk and Western N&W Y5 2-8-8-2 HO Project based on Proto 2000. Condition is "Used". Shipped with USPS Priority Mail. I started but never finished a project to kit bash a N&W Y5 2-8-8-2. They have only been available in Brass. Y5's had 22,000 gallon tenders with plain bearing Buckeye trucks, which are included. I was going to detail this as a hump duty loco as used in Roanoke, but never got to it. DC currently.
here is the link to the damage photo
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TZAYy7yZ1RTPyeLx8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cpyYNebWQgFPQhW26This is what it was packed in and the detail parts also in there
Trainman440 Think of it this way, Ive seen those engines sell used-like new for around $160-200 non-dcc sound.
Think of it this way, Ive seen those engines sell used-like new for around $160-200 non-dcc sound.
I've seen them sell for 180-350!
I got it for 200 + 23 shipping + 18 tax. I have been considering mounting an all weather cab(I have a freelanced road) and possibly getting the frame from the original tender, and cutting up the Rivarossi tender shell to fit.
Assuming your engine also has no DCC/sound, and has a broken drawbar and cab, Id value it at around $75. I wouldnt pay any more than $90 for that.
Of couse, I am cheap :D
You are taking cost out of the eqision, if it was cheap enough then great project, if not then send it back.
Return this locomotive, if required add some amount and buy another one, there are many now listed on eBay, either pre-owned or even brand new (brand new available for 350 USD).
Original drawbar is very complicated because it uses "close coupling cinematic system" usually applied on European models, i.e. not easy to duplicate, and even if it is not broken, it cannot be used with RR tender.
Hrvoje