Am I the only one that prefers older locomotives over this new high priced and much more fragle(to me at least) new stuff? While I started with Athearn blue box EMD's when I was in my teens(I am almost 48 now), I shifted to yellow box era Atlas locos with the silky smooth Kato drive,which is often cloned by the Chinese but not equiled in my opinion. Mostly Alco dominated but I have owned a few of the GP7/9 engines thru the years. Other engines sporting this drive were the earlier Stewart F units. This all shifted when Kato started selling HO engines under their own brand. Yes I know all of those older models either have cast on grab irons or just dimples for drilling(on the later Athearn blue box era diesels). But with my poor eye/hand cordination due to autism, I find them easier to handle. And the uber smooth drive and decent headlights in analog mode make up for the cast on stuff. I have run many other brand thru the years at the local club. And yes many approach that silky smoothness, but the fragile handrails and grab irons are actually a turn off for me. If I want that level of detail, I will buy Overland brass diesels. Just my thoughts, its what makes this hobby so great, there is something for everybody. I am just betting that many younger modelers, dismayed by the high prices of the new stuff, have no idea such smooth and quiet running older models exhist. I know this as I have met them at shows, and helped them find and purchase older models with the Kato drive. Mike the Aspie
Silly NT's, I have Asperger's Syndrome
I have, and run, many of both. I do like the Atlas YB locos, and if you can find one from Japan, with the Kato drive, that is a huge plus.
Mike.
My You Tube
I still have my old Athearn BB diesels from the early 1960s. I've done what I could with them, with the best solution in some cases to remove the drive train, put in a lights-only decoder or a Soundbug, and replace the decals. After all, these engines are old friends and I owe it to them.
But, once I realized that I could get a Proto engine for less than the fix-up cost of an old engine, I got a couple of them and those are the engines I actually run trains with now.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I'm and oldie guy too, in more than one way too.Most of my Steam are oldies and all of my diesels are old. I prefer the Athearn bb diesels. My E7 fleet are either Athearn or Model Power. I say Athearn E7s but they are really SD40-2 frames with Cary Metal Bodies and the Model Power have Hobbytown Metal bodies. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Half of my diesel fleet is Stewart/Kato F units. Nearly all my steam locomotives are 20-30 year old brass models.
Athearn Blue Box drives are in all of my custom locomotives.
My only "modern" locomotive is my Bachmann EM-1 2-8-8-4.
Yes, I prefer the older ones. Easier to maintain and service.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
SeeYou190 Easier to maintain and service.
Russell
I have owned plenty of the Atlas and Kato diesels through the last 40 years, and I have also dabbled in brass with both very good and not so good experiences with brass models.
For those of us whose tastes are gravitating toward the newer engines, they can be wonderful, but I obviously buy less of them since they cost more.
John Mock
In sticking with the topic:
I still have some BB units, which I've been gradually purging. I'm keeping a pair of Atlas Yellow-box FP7's and a smooth running early 90's production Stewart White-box F7. Plan is to install DCC/Sound in all 3 units.
To me, the Stewart unit is the nicest looking, considering the 80's-90's era tooling. The Atlas FP's have the "squinting eye" windshields, but I think I can live with them once they've been detailed and weathered.
If this counts, I have 14 LL BB P2K E-units (E6,E7, E8). Most will be repainted to SCL's paint schemes (splite image and Bumble Bee).
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
I do have BB locomotives from the 90s. I confess I don't use them but I have quite a few Kato's - the Made in Japan ones from the late 90's early 2000's - and those have my favourite drives of all time. I'm still slugging it out on DC.
I had quite a few Athearn diesels, mainly because they were the only decent ones that I could afford at that time. I bought mostly undecorated ones, unless there was a painted used one on-sale I learned a lot by detailing and painting them, and eventually remotored most of them, too. I later got a few Atlas diesels, all undecorated and re-detailed, too. Another of my favourites was Model Power's FAs...most were painted, but like most models in those days, were easy to strip using methyl hydrate (which now is almost useless for stripping current-day paints).
While I still have some of my diesels, the majority of them were sold when I back-dated my layout to the late '30s. I don't regret making that era change, but there are a few locos which I do wish I hadn't sold, mostly for their sentimental value and the work that I put into them.
Wayne
Probably the only thing worse than the coupler boxes on Athearn rolling stock was the coupler boxes on Athearn BB locos. Other than that, I was OK with Athearn BB diesels although the Atlas yellow box were superior runners. Fine detail is not a high priority with me but as long as somebody else is applying it, I'm OK with it.
When I started my current layout about 20 years ago I decided I was going DCC and the plan was to convert all my old Athearn and Atlas diesels and Rivarossi steamers but when factory sound came out I found it easier to buy new rather than retrofit the old stuff with decoders AND speakers. My decision to go with code 83 track also eliminated the Rivarossi steamers with their oversized flanges.
My LHS deals in used stuff and I am cleaning up a lot of my ancient rolling stock and locos with the intent of selling it to them. Some of the rolling stock still has horn hook couplers. With few exceptions, I'm not sentimental about it.
John-NYBWProbably the only thing worse than the coupler boxes on Athearn rolling stock was the coupler boxes on Athearn BB locos....
I have always liked those snap-on covers on the Athearn freight cars. However, using Kadee couplers on some of the early locos, and not just Athearn, often fried the knuckle springs when locos wired with opposite polarity were coupled together.It didn't take me too long to start body-mounting couplers in diesels, regardless of who manufactured them.A stack of sheet styrene behind the pilot, drill and tap a hole for a 2-56 screw, and you were back in business. It not only worked well, but looked better, too.Here's an Athearn U33C with body-mounted couplers and a few other modifications...
Just the other day I pulled out an old BB GP35 and gave it a tune up. Then I got out one of my BB GP38-2s just to compare the advances that were being made at the time when Irv Athearn was still at the helm. I still think the plastic truck side frames are outstanding today and these were hand tooled!
I still have a couple of the yellow boxes, a GP38 that was made in Austria and a Alco C425 that was made by Kato in Japan. Even though I've switched to N scale, I just couldn't part with some of these. I still enjoy setting up some HO track and running them from time to time because they remind me of those early years in the hobby when the yellow box Katos and even the Athearn GP38-2/GP40-2 and GP50 were cutting edge. all of these were also easy to take apart, clean and lube and reassemble by just about anyone.
Ralph
Most of my fleet of locomotives are older Athearn and Atlas locomotives with a couple Spectrum from the 80s through 1997. Then starting in 2017, I got my three newest locomotives, the three Athearn SDP40Fs that have come out.
Kevin
http://chatanuga.org/RailPage.html
http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html
I personally don't have a preference. I'm only interested in finding viable and smooth-running locomotives for my prototype and era. I have newer steam & diesel locos and I also have late 70s/80s brass steam and diesels that run great.
So, age is superfluous; smooth-running locos are essential.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Like most who replied, I have and run BB and YB diesels, along with some nicer Kato powered Atlas, and P2K. All DC. All my steamers are oldies too. Dan
emdmikeYes I know all of those older models either have cast on grab irons or just dimples for drilling(on the later Athearn blue box era diesels). But with my poor eye/hand cordination due to autism, I find them easier to handle. And the uber smooth drive and decent headlights in analog mode make up for the cast on stuff. ... but the fragile handrails and grab irons are actually a turn off for me.
Ah, I understand the concept: fortunately I got away without similar coordination problems as part of the autism package but it turns out that neurological and endocrine things have reduced my dexterity in recent years.
Yes, an 'it will last for at least half of forever' 1970s, 1980s, blue box Athearn is a good thing on my list. Adding details to them is/was part of the fun for me.
Their drivelines made some noise but were clearly built to live long and prosper.
Put Ernst reduction gearing in and I'm a happy camper. :)
I also enjoy IHC's steamers; the ones I have are smooth runners, reliable, sturdy.
Several years back someone donated an IHC 2-8-0 to club so I painted and lettered it with club's roadname and that little thing will happily make laps around the modules for hours and hours at a time. Also responds nicely to analog power when switching, you can creep up and lock Kadee knuckles without disturbing the dust on the wheels of what you are coupling to.
Analog mode is my favorite but with being part of a club starting in 2009 where eventually going DCC became an issue - would you believe my elderly parents gave me 3 Bachmann DCC locomotives for Christmas around 2014!
Handrail durability is both an actual issue and a pet peeve. Especially with frequent handling to transport locomotives between home and club. The slimmer rails and stanchions look okay, but ...
I am quite happy with my older locomotives. I have P2K switchers and GPs, several InterMountains Fs, several Atlas and Kato GPs and a few P1K RDCs. I have (or will have) installed Loksound in them and they seem to run fine on my test track and my old club's layout.
More recently however I have indulged in a few Rapidos, specifically an FP9 and two RDCs. I haven't given up on buying older locomotives at all, but the Rapidos were just too tempting!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I could always use a few BB "Dummy" Diesels to compliment my regular DCC models. They can trail behind the usual powered locomotives.
Sample Consist:
1. SD75M Warbonnet SF (Genesis Powered/DCC)
2. SDP40 DUMY Warbonnet SF (Blue Box)
3. SD40-2 DUMY EMD Lease (Blue Box)
I do find some of the older yellow box Atlas/Kato engines very hard to find. I am on the hunt for a pair of the Clinchfield GP7's to little or no avail. Just camping out on the bay and watching is all I can do with no shows to attend. The Kato plastic handrails of that era suck at holding paint if you do the safety end colors, but they are very forgiving being handled to and from the club layout. Or for those of us that are a bit ham fisted in handling models. Kato really set the bar high when those drives hit the market in the first Atlas Alco road diesels. I only wish the Roco drive models had that same silky smooth and quiet drive with good headlights for analog era running. My very first one was a RS3 in blue N&W colors for my 16th birthday. I has just joined the local club and 1960 was the cut off year for motive power at that time, so first gen diesels. The layout was based on the Clinchfield and the N&W was the closest thing dad could find with the help of a couple of the senior club members helping him chose something somewhat approiate to run on the layout. Mike the Aspie
hon30critterMore recently however I have indulged in a few Rapidos, specifically an FP9 and two RDCs. I haven't given up on buying older locomotives at all, but the Rapidos were just too tempting!
Yes, those Rapido RDCs are irresistable models. Mine is truly gorgeous.
ATSFGuyI could always use a few BB "Dummy" Diesels to compliment my regular DCC models. They can trail behind the usual powered locomotives.
I used to be able to buy Athearn undecorated dummies for next to nothing. They make good looking models for photo diorama props.
The prices on these are shooting upwards. I think people are buying the dummies just to get the handrails. Athearn replacement handrail sets are selling for crazy prices now.
I harvested the hadrails from a dummy GP38-2 because of the prices.
emdmike I only wish the Roco drive models had that same silky smooth and quiet drive
I only have one Atlas/Roco locomotive, an Alco S switcher. It is just as good a runner as my Kato NW-2 is.
I know that is way too small a sample size for anything meaningful.
Different strokes. I've sold off nearly all of my Athearn blue box loco's and all of my Atlas yellow box. Different reasons but most of them were lacking in one way or another.
Examples of why.
Atlas yellow box D&RGW GP7 - the paint was wrong. The black looked more like dark gray and the orange too redish. Also the paint did not adhear well to the metal fuel tank, which btw was the wrong size.
Atlas yellow box GP40's had a horrible misshaped fuel tank with big slot in the side. Sure you could fill the slot but the fuel tank still look really bad.
The Atlas yellow box RS3 was too early for my era.
Athearn BB GP40-2: when Atlas came out with their GP40-2 with the correct nose light (a signature feature of the D&RGW) the BB became surplus. I might have the pieces of one in a box somewhere still.
Athearn BB tunnel motors, surplus with the newer RTR tunnel motors were released - the new ones had the correct nose light, plow and see through tunnel air intake.
I had a few Athearn BB F7's, but I always hated the oversized misshaped windshields; so those got sold off when the much better looking Stewart F7's came out.
Maybe my rose colored glasses got lost along the way.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I had rose colored glasses, too, but when I see what some of the new locomotives offer, it's easy for me to leave yesterday to the history books. I have fond memories of 1980's model railroading, but am leaving that era behind for good.
My last Atlas Classic Series engine is on ebay now with bids, as I'm updating my locomotive fleet again. I do not have any ScaleTrains stuff though, only Bowser and Genesis.
John
I had some nostalgia for a while, sure for the old blue box F7, but like John says, it's not hard to pass on items. It helps to thin the herd as well.
I like some older models, Athearn BB, IHC and Rivarossi steam, because I am able to add my own detail to them. If they don't run well, I can try fixing that and it's usually a little easier than newer stuff. I enjoy adding detail parts and doing that to a newer model is tougher for me to come to terms with if it involves cutting and filing.
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micktropolisI like some older models, Athearn BB, IHC and Rivarossi steam, because I am able to add my own detail to them.
Yes! That is a big appeal of those models.
I have many Athearn BB, one thing I always liked was the ease of switching shells. Years ago I got a bunch of extra shells $5 and dumies $10 so that 10 powered chassis became 20 different engine roadnames. Multipler F7s, GP35, GP9, of course, but also SD45s and F45s switched around. And also Gp38-2 and GP 40-2
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When I was about 20 or so I bought the parts from the train store I worked for to rebuild two Rivarossi Y-6B 2-8-8-2's. Never again. We had all the parts to build a new one just from parts, but the parts were not cheap. The plastic driver centers are horrible, and eventually all drivers will need to be replaced as they start turning on the shaft and then it just binds up. Even after you tear it apart to replace all the drivers, you still have the 3 pole motor powering the thing, which is just utterly terrible. For the cost even today of buying and then rebuilding a Rivarossi 2-8-8-2, one could easily buy a lightly used BLI diecast Y-6B, or one of the factory refurbished ones when they are available, or a good used Proto 2000 2-8-8-2, and then you'd really have something that is light years better than the old Rivarossi that you can run the wheels off of. I'll never touch Rivarossi steam again. Besides, the store eventually blew out all the parts--so they are gone and the opportunity to even obtain all the parts needed to make a Rivarossi 2-8-8-2 run half way decently is most likely gone with them.
At least with old Athearn or Atlas diesels, they can be nearly bulletproof if well taken care of. The Rivarossi steam is not even in that league.
I love my blue box / yellow box locomotives. One of the big reasons is because they are easy to work on. I do not have much money invested in them, for example I think I paid $15.00 for a SW7 (labeled a SW1500) in 1976. My yellow box Atlas engines were acquired for $25 each. I have the detail parts and drive parts to make better models out of them. To date, my first hardwired DCC install was a BB F7; it works/runs great. It is a hobby in and of itself to rework these locomotives.
I do. I'm old school and mostly run old/older dc locomotives. I only have a handful of new/newer locos. Most of my fleet is 20 years old or more, some of it is as old as 1950s era, most of them run quite well. I like a lot of the older models because many of them are generally more durable, easier to service, you don't have to be an electronics guru if something breaks, and models of many of the prototypes I like were only made in a certain time period, and haven't been made since. The only time I buy new is if it's all that's available, or less expensive than used.