I used a Citrus cleaner I picked up at one of the big box home stores. Hand painted with Testors enamel, good adhesion but did not care for the brush application.
Hello All,
da1For complete clarity I admit to absolute ZERO previous success with resin parts.
A manufacturer of aftermarket resin shells says...
"Highly recommend cleaning shell before painting with either mineral spirits or lacquer thinner. Use a pan to soak for a short period of time use a small brush or tooth brush (SIC) to brush off inside and outside of (the) shell/part. Just wipe with a towel and let air dry. Do not use a(n) air hose."
***Use nitrile gloves and eye protection while using solvents and dispose of used chemicals properly***
When I painted one of these shells I hadn't read his prep instructions and washed the shell in warm soapy water with Dawn® dish soap and allowed to air-dry.
I used Rust-Oleum® Painters Touch 2X Gloss Black.
This rattle can paint touts it "Bonds To Plastic!"
I used the bain-marie method to warm the can and did several light passes.
Despite this paint being a "Paint+Primer" the fine details of the grills and doors on this shell are still visible.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I built a few of thire truck kits. I just wash in Dawn/warm water, air dry.
Then again after its built to paint. I use craft paints,without a primer,both brush and airbrush
I have done a few Sylvan kits aS well as other resin kits. Keep in mind that many resin kits have small, delicate parts that are fragile. A light touch is needed for cleaning
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
tstageI have assembled and painted a few Sylvan kits. All I used was Ivory dishwashing soap & warm water, a soft toothbrush (for gently scrubbing the surfaces), a warm water rinse, and allow it to thoroughly air dry. The key is to remove all of the releasing agent from the surface of the resin. Otherwise, the primer/paint will not adhere well.
I have never built a Sylvan kit, but I have built dozens of resin freight car kits and hundreds of resin gaming miniatures.
There are two concerns I have with prepping these parts.
1) All mold release must be removed and parts must be clean.
2) There must be a "tooth" on the surface for paint to stick to.
For #1, I am sure Zep cleaner will work, so will Dawn, Windex, Ivory Snow, and probably hundreds of other products. I have used all kinds of cleaners and all have worked.
For #2, Not all models require this. Most castings are a little rough, but some are as smooth and shiny as glass, and paint just will not stick to these. If a part is slick and smooth I use CRC Brake And Parts Cleaner on it. This will slightly dissolve the surface, then I dry it quickly with compressed air and let it dry thoroughly.
I love resin kits; This one was a blast!
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I built (well, I'm half-way there, anyway) the Sylvan Great Lakes Ore boat and I found that a prep cleaning using Simple Green cleaner worked very well to remove the mold release prior to gluing and painting.
YMMV, Cheers, Ed
Thanks Tom I did a forum search and it was not on the first page. It could have been on the 2nd or 20th.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Henry,
I believe this is the link that Dwayne was trying to post:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/251079.aspx
I copied the words in the 2nd post and pasted it in a Google search...
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Dwayne,
I have assembled and painted a few Sylvan kits. All I used was Ivory dishwashing soap & warm water, a soft toothbrush (for gently scrubbing the surfaces), a warm water rinse, and allow it to thoroughly air dry. The key is to remove all of the releasing agent from the surface of the resin. Otherwise, the primer/paint will not adhere well.
The last time I painted one I used Pollyscale from a jar and a brush. If I were to do it again I probably would use a rattle can, since I do not presently own an airbrush. I'm a big fan of Tamiya spraypaint because it goes on thin & evenly and I've never experienced a clogged nozzle. The thinner paint is also less likely to cover over finer details.
da1Ack!!! The thread I was referring to is here: Preparation for polyurethane resin kit - Model Railroader Magazine - Model Railroading, Model Trains, Reviews, Track Plans, and Forums
Do you have a better link than that?
Ack!!! The thread I was referring to is here:
Preparation for polyurethane resin kit - Model Railroader Magazine - Model Railroading, Model Trains, Reviews, Track Plans, and Forums
Hello all.
About to attemp a Sylvan Scale Models vehicle kit and found this thread.
For complete clarity I admit to absolute ZERO previous success with resin parts. That is based on attempts to paint the windows, doors and foundations in Kanamodel kits.
So, I see that Zep Citrus cleaner is recommended. Can one of you with experience provide simple step-by-step instructions for using Zep and/or water and/or dish soap to prep these parts for acryllic painting? Do I scrub the parts with a toothbrush? Do I rinse with a water and a toothbrush? Knowing the parts are small and delicate, is Rustoleum rattle-can priming advised? Should I stick to brush painting, or will accrylic airbrush be okay?
Again, pretend I am a total novice when replying.
Thanks in advance.Dwayne A