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Preparation for polyurethane resin kit

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  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Southern Quebec, Canada
  • 868 posts
Preparation for polyurethane resin kit
Posted by Guy Papillon on Friday, October 16, 2015 6:10 PM

I am about to begin my first polyurethane resin kit, a Sylvan Scale truck. By the instruction sheet, it is recommended to use ResinPrep (Sylvan Scale own brand cleaner) or Floquil's Diosol to remove the mould release.

Is there any other cleaner that can be used for that purpose? Can I use dishwasher cleaner?

Is it necessary to prime polyurethane resin before painting?

Guy

Modeling CNR in the 50's

  • Member since
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  • From: Franconia, NH
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Posted by dstarr on Friday, October 16, 2015 6:40 PM

Ordinary lacquer thinner, about $6 a quart at your local big box home center, Home Despot or the like, will work as well as diosol for cleaning purposes.  I would follow up a lacquer thinner cleaning with a hot soapy water cleaning and  rinse to get the last traces of grease, oil, and fingerprints off.  Don't handle the model with your bare hands after the last rinse.  Dry well before painting.

   A coat of Krylon or Rustoleum rattle can auto primer of the right color, will stick to anything, cover anything, which prevents color changes in the resin from showing thru the paint.  Use dark gray under dark colors, light gray under light colors and red under red.  Primer offers the ideal surface for the finish coats to adhere to. 

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Posted by doctorwayne on Friday, October 16, 2015 6:46 PM

While lacquer thinner seems to work okay for Sylvan's resin, don't leave parts, especially small ones or very thin ones, in it for more than a few seconds.  I lost a lot of detail parts (mostly frames for screen windows and also screen doors) for one of their CNR wood cabooses, and ended up having to scratchbuild replacements.

Wayne

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Posted by zstripe on Friday, October 16, 2015 8:05 PM

GUY,

I have built many of those kits, only used warm water and dish soap and never used any primer of any kind, using combo's of, Enamels and Acrylic water base....used Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+ and used GS HYPO cement for window glazing or canopy glue. Except for the Autos, all the trucks/trailers suspensions were modified with brass tube/brass axles with A-line wheels and tires, so they roll. Most all the trucks/trailers and Autos in Pic' are Sylvan's, decals are Graphic's on Demand:

Take Care! Big Smile

Frank

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Posted by modelmaker51 on Friday, October 16, 2015 9:12 PM

I use a PPG product called DX-440 availkable from auto paint shops. It's specifically designed for cutting grease and oils and works really well at removing silicone mold release. I scrub the parts with a plastic bristled brush and the wash it with Dawn dish detergent and let everything air dry.

I then assemble the model and wash it again with Dawn (or any grease cutting detergent) and let everything air dry again and then hit it with primer and paint. I don't prime it first because it's a pain to clean all the glue joins of paint before gluing.

Jay 

C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1 

Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums 

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Posted by Heartland Division CB&Q on Friday, October 16, 2015 9:19 PM

Good thread, and I appreciate reading advice from the experts. 

GARRY

HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR

EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU

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Posted by gmpullman on Friday, October 16, 2015 9:21 PM

zstripe
I have built many of those kits, only used warm water and dish soap and never used any primer of any kind,

I agree with Frank, especially the rattle-can primer. It is OK on some work, like large expanses of brick or for coloring ties and track work but, to me anyway, it is too heavily bodied for detail work and obscures too much detail.

As for degreasing (removing mold release) I use this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-128-oz-Heavy-Duty-Citrus-Degreaser-ZUCIT128/100676344

It has been my experience that the interior moldings of Walthers passenger cars are particularly heavy with silicone and need a good scrubbing.

A good selection of nylon scrub brushes, some fine, some coarse, some round, some flat, tooth brushes, baby bottle brushes, etc. are helpful in getting into the crannies and the nooks, too.

Just sayin'   My 2 Cents  Ed

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Posted by zstripe on Saturday, October 17, 2015 7:46 AM

Word of advice for all......

Some advice given is OK to a certain degree, but like I said I have built many of Sylvan's kits at least 50, and some of those parts are really brittle.....You can break them, by just cleaning the flash, let alone washing and priming them. A lot of the parts have to be sanded or filed to fit. I use Jewelers diamond files for that. They do not bend...they will break first. They will make great models.....but it takes a lot of patience and some skill....those kits are not for the novice....In My Opinion.....they are not at all like building a box car or structure. I also found that no other adhesive, but CA will work well.

Have Fun!

Take Care! Big Smile

Frank

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Posted by Guy Papillon on Saturday, October 17, 2015 5:48 PM

Thank you all. 

Frank:

Looking at your trucks and cars, it is obvious that you know what you are talking about.  I will follow your advise.

zstripe

some of those parts are really brittle.....You can break them, by just cleaning the flash, let alone washing and priming them. A lot of the parts have to be sanded or filed to fit. I use Jewelers diamond files for that. They do not bend...they will break first.

I already know that, unfortunately. Embarrassed

Guy

Modeling CNR in the 50's

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
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Posted by zstripe on Saturday, October 17, 2015 6:21 PM

Guy Papillon

Thank you all. 

Frank:

Looking at your trucks and cars, it is obvious that you know what you are talking about.  I will follow your advise.

 

 
zstripe

some of those parts are really brittle.....You can break them, by just cleaning the flash, let alone washing and priming them. A lot of the parts have to be sanded or filed to fit. I use Jewelers diamond files for that. They do not bend...they will break first.

 

 

I already know that, unfortunately. Embarrassed

 

Guy,

Thanks for Your kind words.

Should You need some replacement parts, that are broke or missing...like axles, wheels, tires, rear ends....shoot Me a PM. I have a whole bunch of parts, that I did not use. I make My own suspension out of brass and use A-Line wheels & tires. All truck/trailer parts.    FREE   

This apply's to anyone who may need some parts.

Take Care! Big Smile

Frank

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Chamberlain, ME
  • 5,084 posts
Posted by G Paine on Sunday, October 18, 2015 10:10 AM

Sylvan's Resin Prep is a citrus based cleaner/greaser that is similar to an orange cleaner by Zep that you can get at Lowes or Home Depot. This product is friendly to resin parts.

George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch 

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  • From: Southern Quebec, Canada
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Posted by Guy Papillon on Monday, October 19, 2015 2:51 PM

George:

Thank you for your input. My wife already have a citrus based degreaser called Orange Cleaner. I will give it a try.

Guy

Modeling CNR in the 50's

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