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Installing windshield wipers

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  • Member since
    February 2019
  • 104 posts
Installing windshield wipers
Posted by DRGWGJCO on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 11:51 AM

I am looking at detailing a couple of my diesel locomotives while waitng to get my railroad started. As I was figuring out my order it occured to me I don't know what type of adhesive to use for attaching metal windshield wipers to plastic windows. Liquid plastic cement doesn't sound like a good idea, and CA has a tendency to fog the plastic. What do all of you use?

  • Member since
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  • From: Yorkton, Sk, Cnd
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Posted by wvg_ca on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 12:36 PM

canopy cement ... probably any cement meant for clear objects

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Posted by DRGWGJCO on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 12:55 PM
Thanks for the info. Appreciate it
  • Member since
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  • From: Southern Florida Gulf Coast
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Posted by SeeYou190 on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 1:01 PM

Do your windshield wipers go onto the windows?

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I have always mounted mine to the frame above the window. I assumed the wiper motor was there.

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Is this something else I have been doing wrong?

.

-Kevin

.

Living the dream.

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    December 2014
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Posted by Wolf359 on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 1:37 PM

SeeYou190

Do your windshield wipers go onto the windows?

.

I have always mounted mine to the frame above the window. I assumed the wiper motor was there.

.

Is this something else I have been doing wrong?

.

-Kevin

.

 

 

The frame above the window is correct for the wiper motor mount on most diesels like this EMD FT: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EMD_FT#/media/File:GM_103_at_Railfair.jpg and this GE ET44 Evolution: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:GE_ET44AC_locomotives_of_BNSF#/media/File:BNSF_1991.jpg I hope this helps.

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Posted by DRGWGJCO on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 2:00 PM

Wolf359

 

 
The frame above the window is correct for the wiper motor mount on most diesels 

Good question. I have seen them starting on the frame and the blade part extending onto the window. I just assumed they were glued to the window and the frame. Is it strong enough if only attached at the frame?

  • Member since
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  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
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Posted by gmpullman on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 4:09 PM

I went a step further and masked off an area of "clean" windshield then gave a light coat of Dullcote. You can see a bit of this effect on the FT demo photo in a previous post.

 NYC_1607_nose_edited-1 by Edmund, on Flickr

I don't do it on all the locos but it makes a neat detail for a few. I also modeled the flipped-up MU door as this was a common problem on the NYC Es and Fs.

 NYC_E8-4040 by Edmund, on Flickr

 

Good Luck, Ed

  • Member since
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  • From: 4610 Metre's North of the Fortyninth on the left coast of Canada
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Posted by BATMAN on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 4:20 PM

I had to replace a wiper switch once, never had to do that until Jason Shron started producing locomotives.Smile, Wink & GrinLaugh

Brent

"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."

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Posted by PC101 on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 7:53 PM

I thought the ones I have (not Cal-Scale brand) needed to have a very tiny predrilled hole where the pivot attached to the frame/body of the loco. That's where I glued them. Put tiny droplet of CA in the hole and insert wiper pivot stud in the hole, being sure where you want the wiper blade on the window before sticking it in the hole. 

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Posted by DRGWGJCO on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 7:59 PM

PC101

I thought the ones I have needed to have a vrey tiny predrilled hole where the pivot attached to the frame/body of the loco.

 

That is possible. I can't find the instructions for the cal scale detail kit online anywhere to know for sure. Was just trying to ensure I had everything I needed and wouldn't be waiting for.something I didn't order

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Bradford, Ontario
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Posted by hon30critter on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 8:21 PM

I suggest not using CA, no matter how small the amount. As you are already aware, it will fog the glass if any of the CA fumes get to it. Better to be safe and get some Canopy Cement.

My 2 Cents

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

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Posted by PC101 on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 8:29 PM

Cal-Scale #190-419 looks like lost wax casting (picture in Walthers Catalog) show's a long pin to be inserted into a drilled hole in the frame/body. I can not say what size.

Cal-Scale #190-517 (no picture in Walthers Catalog) but look up ''Bowser train'' parts and click on ''Cal Scale'', HO Diesel and go down to ''W'' #190-517 or #190-518 flat brass or #190-619 Plastic. Yes looks like #517,518 and 619 has a ''pivot pin'' to go in to a drilled hole. Look at pictures of loco's. and decide where you want the wiper pivot, mark the hole with a very pointy pin, and mic. the size of the ''pivot pin'' and drill the hole. Drill smaller, you can always go larger. 

And as mentioned above, you should stick with Canopy Glue.

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Posted by DRGWGJCO on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 9:05 PM

PC101

Cal-Scale #190-419 looks like lost wax casting (picture in Walthers Catalog) show's a long pin to be inserted into a drilled hole in the frame/body. I can not say what size.

Cal-Scale #190-517 (no picture in Walthers Catalog) but look up ''Bowser train'' parts and click on ''Cal Scale'' #190-517 or #190-518 flat brass or #190-619 Plastic. Yes looks like #517,518 and 619 has a ''pivot pin'' to go in to a drilled hole. Look at pictures of loco's. and decide where you want the wiper pivot, mark the hole with a very pointy pin, and mic. the size of the ''pivot pin'' and drill the hole. Drill smaller, you can always go larger. 

And as mentioned above, you should stick with Canopy Glue.

 

 

Thanks.  I guess I need to brush up on my internet skills. I will get some canopy glue also appreciate all the help and advice as always.

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    March 2012
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Posted by PC101 on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 9:28 PM

If you buy Canopy Glue at a Hobby Shop, you may be aloud to unscrew the cap to check for dried glue in the bottle. I have seen some bottles with a thin, up to thick dry skin on the top of the contents in the bottle. Maybe some drying is normal, I don't know.  

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  • From: Chi-Town
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Posted by zstripe on Thursday, September 12, 2019 7:25 AM

I build a lot of fallen flag 1/87 truck line models and use photo etched stainless steel details, mirrors,wipers etc. With over 150 different models, I use nothing but, GS Hypo Jewelers cement. Have not had any problems with parts falling off or fogging including acetate window glazing on all models that I have for Myself and have built for others. The tip of the glue has a stainless steel tube applicator with a hole the size of a #80 drill bit. A lot better than Canopy glue or CA. It is not a CA also:

https://gssupplies.com/gs-hypo-cement/

Photos may be clicked on for a larger view:

Take Care! Big Smile

Frank

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