TrainzLuvrso it needs a standard url /url forum tag.
I guess that's how those with some actual computer knowledge would say it. I'm a computer dinosaur. I need step by step instructions.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Thanks for the heads-up, so it needs a standard url /url forum tag.
YouTube Channel
Website
TrainzLuvr:
Here is a working link:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/260185/2924196.aspx
To make the local links work you have to add some commands to the link. Immediately before the first letter in the link insert a square bracket '[' followed by the letters 'url' followed by the opposite square bracket ']'. Then, at the end of the link, add another square bracket '[' followed by a slash '/', the letters 'url', and the opposite square bracket ']'. No spaces. The link won't show as clickable (i.e. turn blue) until you post it.
I made another thread in the Layout forum about my layout.
I totally went off-topic here, and I apologize for that.
EDIT: this WYSIWYG edit post editor does not like local links, they are being filtered, bah.
Two foot aisles are pretty tight. Keep in mind that you are likely to have turnout controllers, throttle holders, maybe way card holders ...etc. etc. on (or in) the fascia.
I do not have the layout plan yet, but it will be DCC.
I left 2 feet through the aisles...lol.
Make sure you allow yourself room to move around inside the layout as well as when you install the electrical components.
Is your layout DC or DCC?
Thank you, previous owner did all the work, I just inherited the look and added speakers to the ceiling.
That is an interesting suggestion, but to be clear I'll mock it up on a previous idea:
S is the staging and trains could arrive into it from either 1 or 2. As long as there's access to the panel then 2 can remain lowered.
I'd like to incorporate the workbench somewhere; the computer is not there anymore and the rest of the stuff is really all of my H0 items, tools, airbrush compressor, etc.
EDIT: Although, that would make the staging only 10 feet or less, kinda short, compared to the long South wall (at the top) which is full 20 feet (without the clearance for the electrical closet door)
Looking at the pictures of the room, which is very nice BTW, what if you would put staging tracks in the alcove adjacent to the electrical panel, running along the wall, with a swing out or lift up "bridge" section crossing the aisle, connecting it to the main layout. Depending how involved you would want to get with it, you could also put shelving underneath the staging to hold your goodies. Is the work bench going to be incorporated into the space, or will it be relocated?
Jim (with a nod to Mies Van Der Rohe)
That is a main support beam for the house. I have to duck under it or else...
The ceiling is ok, unless I raise my heels up and stand on my toes, or god forbid jump.
TrainzLuvr Hmmm.. So, my electrical cabinet is behind a real door in an alcove. That door has to swing open thus there's about 3 feet. It does not say anything about getting TO the panel at all.
Hmmm..
So, my electrical cabinet is behind a real door in an alcove. That door has to swing open thus there's about 3 feet. It does not say anything about getting TO the panel at all.
I don't mean to sound harsh, but that's not really the kind of thing one should mess with.
Your going to have the nicest layout room floor in the hobby!
Too bad about the low ceilings. The bulkhead between the columns must be really low. I have a couple of support beams in the garage where the layout will go that I barely miss when I walk under them.
To give you an idea what the space really looks like, here are two photos, looking East and looking West. It's fully finished, as a living space not a train room.
Correct, those are the support columns holding the main floor of the house, with the aisle spaces between them.
I did think of a number of shapes to fit in the space, but as a n00b I am not too sure whether these shapes are the best I can do/get. Dots are for the duck-under or swing-gate bridge.
I'm also thinking about around the perimeter incline/decline to the second level, instead of a helix (the space hog).
Another catch is the ceiling - in the basement it's only 6'5", so rather low, can't do anything wild like mushroom profiles.
TrainzLuvrHere is what my basement area looks like, and its dimensions.
Thanks for the email, I finally see what others can see. You may have a little more effective room than you thought. If you can use the outside of the shaded space for aisles and access, the usable visible layout area becomes larger.
Even without that "extra" space, there's enough space here for HO or N. One key metric is how long you would like the typical train to be. From this, one sizes the yard(s) and passing sidings as well as setting the "running room" between -- and that determines how many layout elements can fit for a particular scale.
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
cuyamaDave, what browser are you using?
Google Chrome.
TrainzLuvrMaybe it was my server configuration, please try again?
Still not working for me. It's blank on the forum page. When I go to the image link directly I just see a mostly black page with a PayPal donate button in the center (where the image would be) and the image URL in text below.
Maybe just something at my end. I'll send you a message via the forum with my email address, perhaps you can email the image.
cuyamaI'm still not seeing the room image, even with different browsers. Dave, what browser are you using?
Maybe it was my server configuration, please try again?
I'm still not seeing the room image, even with different browsers. Dave, what browser are you using?
According to your drawing you have to have 3' x 30" in front of the panel but the aisle leading to that space doesn't have to be 3' wide. You could go down to 28" - 30" and still have enough room to work comfortably on the layout. Every inch counts.
I think you have a pretty decent space, but that electrical panel will be a bit of a PITA. Have you researched the regulations regarding panel accessibility? You could do a duck under or a lift out section but I think either of those options would create major problems if you were trying to get to the panel in the dark. They're probably not legal either.
The easiest solution would be to leave an aisle on the right side of the room so you can walk right up to the panel. Unfortunately that will take a couple of feet or more off of your available space.
At least you are in a basement! I'm stuck in my garage unless I win the lottery.
Have fun!
TrainzLuvroffended. How would one incorporate both H0 and N into the same layout
Russell
hon30critterI guess that was partially aimed at me.
Nope.
Here is what my basement area looks like, and its dimensions.
Kind of irregular as I need to keep the access to the electrical cabinet in the upper right, and then below the pillars is the hallway that I can't block either, or the door to the room on the left.
cuyamaI personally think folks should make their decisions for themsleves and not be swayed by the gabbers in the virtual kaffeeklatsch.
I guess that was partially aimed at me. FWIW, I freely indicated that I don't have a layout yet. I felt I had something to offer because my layout space will be similar in size to the OP's.
I have spent a lot of time revising my layout plan. The first renditions were poorly designed to say the least. I have learned tons on the forums, and 'Track Planning for Realistic Operation' really helped me develop a plan that actually worked for my purposes.
For the benefit of the OP, here is my plan:
- Blue is the main line.
- Dark brown is the passenger station track.
- Green is the arrival/departure track.
- Pink is the yard lead.
- Red is either the caboose track or the RIP (programming) track.
- Grey is the secondary track including the yard tracks, industrial spurs and the leads to the helices.
- Light brown is the HOn30 mine track.
North and East walls are solid. South and West sides are open. There will be a removable backdrop.
Reach in to the track is approaching 30" in a couple of spots but there are no turnouts in those areas. Layout height will be 48". I'm 6' 2" so the longer reaches will be manageable but not ideal. Scenes close to the outer walls will be built off the layout and made to be removeable.
Layout space is 23.5' x 12'. Minimum curve is 26.5". Maximum grade is 2.5%. Helices are 2% with a 30" radius.
Staging has six fairly long tracks as well as a run around and a reverse loop.
No doubt there are some problems still. I have an 'S' curve where the main line switches to the east end of the arrival track. I haven't figured out how to fix that yet, other than with slow speeds.
I didn't say N was the "dark" side, I referred to it as the "other" side. Just so that no one gets offended.
How would one incorporate both H0 and N into the same layout, one is half the size of the other?
Then again, if I make a two level layout, they could live together in harmony and not interfere with each other.
Can't decide why not go both ways HO and N.
N scale is like the other side of the Force, tempting and luring me towards it. More track, longer trains, more scenery...yet is it the right choice (for me)?
Go over to the Dark Side I think its more fun. I think Luke should have.
Anyway I agree that modern pikes are probably better left to N scale if you want to use six axle locos and modern cars passenger intermodal and auto racks.
Joe Staten Island West