Rich:
I think that looks great! It will look even better in person with the single pilasters between each wall section.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
richhotrain OK, I am going to try that. Here is what it should look like.
OK, I am going to try that. Here is what it should look like.
As was mentioned previously, I still think that you'll need to add the cornice in order to keep the proportions right. And no, I couldn't have done the building in that time, but I'm sure that I could've altered the DPM walls, giving you a bit of a kick-start.
DoughlessJust a technicality since thats a photoshop....stringing DPM modulars together will result in only one vertical pilaster between each section, not two...and you don't place sections together, but leave a gap in between since the pilasters are a bit wide...you'll see. Edit: I just realized that you may not know that the pilasters are applied separately, they are included with the sections, but must be glued on...not a big deal.
Adding the pilasters is definitely not a big deal, but the design also offers the opportunity to decrease the width of the wall sections when needed: simply lop-off the excess, then use a mill- or body-file to create a new flat area onto which the pilaster can be cemented.I prefer to use solvent cement for anything styrene-to-styrene. If you do the assembly work on a sheet of glass and use a straightedge, the entire DPM wall can be done pretty much as quickly as you can move your hands.Likewise for any wall sections which need to be shortened in height by removing a portion and rejoining the upper and lower pieces. If you don't like the utility knife score-and-snap procedure, use a handsaw to make the cuts, then file or sand to size. Add a full-width backer strip of 3/4" wide .060" sheet styrene to one piece, with 3/8" cemented to one piece, then add the other portion onto the exposed remaining 3/8" of the backer, cementing it both to the backer and, as a butt joint, to the lower wall section.
This is part of National Grocers on my layout, all made with DPM modular wall sections:
There's nothing at all fancy or complicated about it. I did add a foundation of .060" styrene, but there's only enough rear wall to support the roof, which itself is braced with strips cut from the .060" sheet:
Wayne
I have built several buildings with Walthers modulars, so it sounds like DPM modulars are constructed the same way, using pilasters to join the sections and provide a more finished look.
So, in the photo that follows, I have added pilasters, cornices, and dock to give a better idea of the finished look (before painting) and dimensions.
Thoughts ?
Rich
Alton Junction
Build it.
- Douglas
DoughlessBuild it.
I will just add as long as you're happy with it.
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
The cornice adds a lot to the overall balanced appearance. My only suggestion is to substitute another freight door for one of the window sections on the lower floor.
Doughless Build it.
Will they come? LOL
Nothing, further to add....I'm being cool.
Frank
zstripe Doughless Build it. Will they come? LOL Nothing, further to add....I'm being cool. Frank
Rich,
While You're being cool.....give some thought on a solid foundation to start the building on. Wayne's way, I would not trust for 52'' long,and even with styrene butts, iffy! Even if You build it in sections, they will have to match up perfect. My suggection I gave in a earlier post. Spend some money and get a piece of 1x6 #1 grade pine and use that as your base, it will also act as Your dock on the rail side and build Your building on it. Then You can move it anywhere You want, without worrying about the building coming apart. I do that all the time and then screw it to my layout or I even bolt it in some cases.
Some more to think about!?! LOL
Have Fun, I am, BTW: I already have 150.00 invested in my project building and it's 22 inches shorter and that's not total yet.
After repeated threats from Wayne and Frank unless I got going on this project, I got going on this project.
I ordered one of the large kits of DPM modulars today and should receive it early next week.
Then, I will spend more time overthinking this issue and report back to all of you.
Geeeezus! Its about time, 6 pages later and Rich decides to build it. Nice.
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
Motley Geeeezus! Its about time, 6 pages later and Rich decides to build it. Nice.
I'm baaaack!
Got my DPM Modulars Planning Kit today.
I see four possibilities, as pictured from left to right in the photo.
1. The 1st story dock and a simple 2nd story set of windows.
2. The 1st story dock, a dock spacer, and a simple 2nd story set of windows.
3. The 1st story dock and a 2nd story set of windows using a 1st story dock.
4. The 1st story dock and a 2-story 2nd story set of windows.
My preference is #4, then #3, not so much #2, and, ugh, #1.
Notice the different heights of the four combinations.
Waddya think?
Hey Rich,
What if you cut out a chunk of the tall second story sections?
Then you could go with any height you want,and still just have the single row of vertical bricks,like the prototype.
EDIT: Upon closer inspection,what I thought was an row of vertical brick is just the roofline for the dock.
Mike
IIRC you said you would rather not get into a bunch of cutting, so my preference would be #3, with the addition of a cornice to the top of the wall.
IMHO #4 looks like the windows are too high in the wall, but that's just me.
#2 is almost the same as #3 except that you will have to do a bit of work to make the seam between the dock riser and the upper wall invisible. I'd personally rather have the line of raised bricks in #3 even though they aren't in keeping with the prototype. Having that line of raised bricks might also make the building appear longer than it would with just a plain wall.
I agree - #1 is ugh!
JaBear:
Thanks for the support!
I also would go with #3, along with dock doors like #4. Could You take a couple of pic's with a scale standing figure in the dock door's and window? The first floor window's look a little low to me for a dock window. About waist high for the second story. The floor/foundation would be even with the lower bottom opening of the dock door. Might just be my eyes, but a figure would help.
Might be a good idea, to get going, while we're young. LOL.
Take Care!
I decided to cut off some rows of bricks on the 2-story double window section to bring it down to the same height as the 1st story dock section. Using an Optivisor to stay properly aligned, I scored the row of bricks and snapped off the scored section. No problemo!
In the atttached photo, ignore the outer 2nd story sections which I added just to fill the void. The inner two 2nd story sections are the ones that I cut down. The 1st story will consist of large freight doors, smaller entry doors, and double sets of windows.
Frank, I added you caricature in the doorway to show scale.
Sorry that it took so long to reach this point, but until I got the kit yesterday, I could not make any final decisions. Now, I know what I need to order in terms of individual parts.
Thanks to all for all of your constructive comments. Most appreciated !
Yeah, that looks better IMO. Didn't realise that Frank looked so dapper!
richhotrainSorry that it took so long to reach this point,
With the glacial pace of my scratch built ferry project, I understand.
Didn't realise that Frank looked so dapper!
richhotrain
Looks great! I definitely think the extra trouble of cutting each 2 story section is well worth it. It looks much better than having the horizontal lines the other pieces cause.
Remember, those sections will stand apart abit as you install the pilasters...they won't touch each other.
Just wanted to remind you of this before you cemented 52 inches of those things together before you decided to install the first pilaster!!
I agree, that looks great Rich! Can't wait to see this huge building completed, gonna be SWEEET!
Looks good Rich. I like it better without the brick line across the wall in the second story.
I'm glad you found the walls easy to cut. I had visions of you having to use a razor saw which would have been a messy PITA.
richhotrain Didn't realise that Frank looked so dapper! He normally doesn't. I loaned him my suit. Rich
He normally doesn't. I loaned him my suit.
Yeah, thanks for the loan of the suit....but why did you have to give me the fat one?
I do like the way it will look now.
Btw: Say ''hello'' to my little friend. Doing a little range practice, just in case.
zstripeDoing a little range practice, just in case
I surrender!!!!
hon30critter Looks good Rich. I like it better without the brick line across the wall in the second story. I'm glad you found the walls easy to cut. I had visions of you having to use a razor saw which would have been a messy PITA. Dave
Doughless Remember, those sections will stand apart abit as you install the pilasters...they won't touch each other. Just wanted to remind you of this before you cemented 52 inches of those things together before you decided to install the first pilaster!!
richhotrain Doughless Remember, those sections will stand apart abit as you install the pilasters...they won't touch each other. Just wanted to remind you of this before you cemented 52 inches of those things together before you decided to install the first pilaster!! I need to study the instructions a little more. The kit that I initially bought to experiment with came with a large bag of parts including two different widths of pilasters. The wider pilaster forces the panels apart with a small space in between, so I assume that I want to use the narrower pilasters which fit over panels that touch one another without any space in between. Rich
I need to study the instructions a little more. The kit that I initially bought to experiment with came with a large bag of parts including two different widths of pilasters. The wider pilaster forces the panels apart with a small space in between, so I assume that I want to use the narrower pilasters which fit over panels that touch one another without any space in between.
The wider pilasters are designed for the fronts of the buildings. The narrower ones are for turning the corner on a full 3D building.
One side of the narrower pilasters is smooth, where it glues to the smooth back of the wider ones. Together they make a corner and result in the same width pilaster on both sides.
Doughless The wider pilasters are designed for the fronts of the buildings. The narrower ones are for turning the corner on a full 3D building. One side of the narrower pilasters is smooth, where it glues to the smooth back of the wider ones. Together they make a corner and result in the same width pilaster on both sides.