Good Morning, Rich and JaBear.
I've had to compromise....but I am well on my way after this pic'. Had to sacrifice the one track and everything else that was there and am adding another building in foreground. Am redirecting switches and track work now.
Take Care!
Frank
EDIT: Forgot MKE_railscenes. To The Forums.
I see Rich is currently having fun exploring the parameters of his new mini camera, so am not sure how this project is progressing.
Alton Junction
mke_railscenes Not sure if Rich or anyone else is still following this thread on the C&EI freight house (hope your build is going well, Rich) but here is a ground-level shot I recently found on flickr showing the freight house: https://www.flickr.com/photos/7547061@N02/3312880270/ Taken by Mark Llanuza, caption is: "N.W SD-45 withcommuter train Chicago Dearborn station 1974"
Not sure if Rich or anyone else is still following this thread on the C&EI freight house (hope your build is going well, Rich) but here is a ground-level shot I recently found on flickr showing the freight house:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/7547061@N02/3312880270/
Taken by Mark Llanuza, caption is: "N.W SD-45 withcommuter train Chicago Dearborn station 1974"
Rich
mke_railscenesbut here is a ground-level shot I recently found on flickr showing the freight house:
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Doughless, I see that now in the illustrations in the instructions. They show wider pilasters and a space between the wall panels. Thanks for that heads up.
richhotrain So, with the wider pilasters, there is a space between the panels, albeit, unseen when viewed from the front? Rich
So, with the wider pilasters, there is a space between the panels, albeit, unseen when viewed from the front?
Yes. The pilasters end up being the structural element to hold things together horizontally.
Because of that, I like to glue a long styrene strip, or a long sprue tree from the scrap box, along the back length of the wall at a place that won't interefere with the door/window installation, to give the wall some rigidity. I would want to overlap those strips for your project since the wall will be so long.
I also use styrene strips to make a foundation, and a sprue tree somewhere at the top near the cornice (to support the roof). With those three horizontal strips along the back side, the wall becomes pretty stiff.
I think Wayne's pictures show that he uses bits of styrene at several four corners area of the back of the wall. I've done that too.
There are probably other ways to assemble the modules, but I like to string together 5 or 6 modules and pilasters, then flip it over to install the styrene along the back. This is why I use drops of CA (along with solvent based glue). The CA sets up quickly and allows the wall panel to be moved around some while I work with it.
- Douglas
Doughless The wider pilasters are designed for the fronts of the buildings. The narrower ones are for turning the corner on a full 3D building. One side of the narrower pilasters is smooth, where it glues to the smooth back of the wider ones. Together they make a corner and result in the same width pilaster on both sides.
The wider pilasters are designed for the fronts of the buildings. The narrower ones are for turning the corner on a full 3D building.
One side of the narrower pilasters is smooth, where it glues to the smooth back of the wider ones. Together they make a corner and result in the same width pilaster on both sides.
richhotrain Doughless Remember, those sections will stand apart abit as you install the pilasters...they won't touch each other. Just wanted to remind you of this before you cemented 52 inches of those things together before you decided to install the first pilaster!! I need to study the instructions a little more. The kit that I initially bought to experiment with came with a large bag of parts including two different widths of pilasters. The wider pilaster forces the panels apart with a small space in between, so I assume that I want to use the narrower pilasters which fit over panels that touch one another without any space in between. Rich
Doughless Remember, those sections will stand apart abit as you install the pilasters...they won't touch each other. Just wanted to remind you of this before you cemented 52 inches of those things together before you decided to install the first pilaster!!
Remember, those sections will stand apart abit as you install the pilasters...they won't touch each other.
Just wanted to remind you of this before you cemented 52 inches of those things together before you decided to install the first pilaster!!
I need to study the instructions a little more. The kit that I initially bought to experiment with came with a large bag of parts including two different widths of pilasters. The wider pilaster forces the panels apart with a small space in between, so I assume that I want to use the narrower pilasters which fit over panels that touch one another without any space in between.
hon30critter Looks good Rich. I like it better without the brick line across the wall in the second story. I'm glad you found the walls easy to cut. I had visions of you having to use a razor saw which would have been a messy PITA. Dave
Looks good Rich. I like it better without the brick line across the wall in the second story.
I'm glad you found the walls easy to cut. I had visions of you having to use a razor saw which would have been a messy PITA.
Dave
zstripeDoing a little range practice, just in case
I surrender!!!!
richhotrain Didn't realise that Frank looked so dapper! He normally doesn't. I loaned him my suit. Rich
Didn't realise that Frank looked so dapper!
He normally doesn't. I loaned him my suit.
Rich,
Yeah, thanks for the loan of the suit....but why did you have to give me the fat one?
I do like the way it will look now.
Btw: Say ''hello'' to my little friend. Doing a little range practice, just in case.
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I agree, that looks great Rich! Can't wait to see this huge building completed, gonna be SWEEET!
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
richhotrain
Looks great! I definitely think the extra trouble of cutting each 2 story section is well worth it. It looks much better than having the horizontal lines the other pieces cause.
Yeah, that looks better IMO. Didn't realise that Frank looked so dapper!
richhotrainSorry that it took so long to reach this point,
With the glacial pace of my scratch built ferry project, I understand.
Cheers, the Bear.
I decided to cut off some rows of bricks on the 2-story double window section to bring it down to the same height as the 1st story dock section. Using an Optivisor to stay properly aligned, I scored the row of bricks and snapped off the scored section. No problemo!
In the atttached photo, ignore the outer 2nd story sections which I added just to fill the void. The inner two 2nd story sections are the ones that I cut down. The 1st story will consist of large freight doors, smaller entry doors, and double sets of windows.
Frank, I added you caricature in the doorway to show scale.
Sorry that it took so long to reach this point, but until I got the kit yesterday, I could not make any final decisions. Now, I know what I need to order in terms of individual parts.
Thanks to all for all of your constructive comments. Most appreciated !
I also would go with #3, along with dock doors like #4. Could You take a couple of pic's with a scale standing figure in the dock door's and window? The first floor window's look a little low to me for a dock window. About waist high for the second story. The floor/foundation would be even with the lower bottom opening of the dock door. Might just be my eyes, but a figure would help.
Might be a good idea, to get going, while we're young. LOL.
JaBear:
Thanks for the support!
Rich:
IIRC you said you would rather not get into a bunch of cutting, so my preference would be #3, with the addition of a cornice to the top of the wall.
IMHO #4 looks like the windows are too high in the wall, but that's just me.
#2 is almost the same as #3 except that you will have to do a bit of work to make the seam between the dock riser and the upper wall invisible. I'd personally rather have the line of raised bricks in #3 even though they aren't in keeping with the prototype. Having that line of raised bricks might also make the building appear longer than it would with just a plain wall.
I agree - #1 is ugh!
Hey Rich,
What if you cut out a chunk of the tall second story sections?
Then you could go with any height you want,and still just have the single row of vertical bricks,like the prototype.
EDIT: Upon closer inspection,what I thought was an row of vertical brick is just the roofline for the dock.
Mike
I'm baaaack!
Got my DPM Modulars Planning Kit today.
I see four possibilities, as pictured from left to right in the photo.
1. The 1st story dock and a simple 2nd story set of windows.
2. The 1st story dock, a dock spacer, and a simple 2nd story set of windows.
3. The 1st story dock and a 2nd story set of windows using a 1st story dock.
4. The 1st story dock and a 2-story 2nd story set of windows.
My preference is #4, then #3, not so much #2, and, ugh, #1.
Notice the different heights of the four combinations.
Waddya think?
Motley Geeeezus! Its about time, 6 pages later and Rich decides to build it. Nice.
Geeeezus! Its about time, 6 pages later and Rich decides to build it. Nice.
After repeated threats from Wayne and Frank unless I got going on this project, I got going on this project.
I ordered one of the large kits of DPM modulars today and should receive it early next week.
Then, I will spend more time overthinking this issue and report back to all of you.
While You're being cool.....give some thought on a solid foundation to start the building on. Wayne's way, I would not trust for 52'' long,and even with styrene butts, iffy! Even if You build it in sections, they will have to match up perfect. My suggection I gave in a earlier post. Spend some money and get a piece of 1x6 #1 grade pine and use that as your base, it will also act as Your dock on the rail side and build Your building on it. Then You can move it anywhere You want, without worrying about the building coming apart. I do that all the time and then screw it to my layout or I even bolt it in some cases.
Some more to think about!?! LOL
Have Fun, I am, BTW: I already have 150.00 invested in my project building and it's 22 inches shorter and that's not total yet.