An untreated concrete floor releases a bit of itself as dust whenever it gets scraped. Shoes, for instance. I would think either epoxy paint or porch paint would eliminate that. Pretty much any paint that smells REALLY awful after you've applied it.
Ed
I'd thought about painting the floor, but I do a lot of cutting (mostly 4'x8' styrene sheets) on the floor there, and the paint probably wouldn't stand up to it very well. It's the only area of floor in the house that's large enough for that type of work.
I'll eventually put down laminate flooring when the layout gets taken out.
Wayne
I have brass, nickel and steel rail. I can only tell the difference between the brass and the nickel by looking at it. Operationally they are the same to me. I use DC and live in the desert if that makes a difference. I can always tell when I get to sections of steel rail because they get dirty much quicker or maybe they just don’t conduct as good to begin with. However they actually look the best. One day I will replace all of the steel. Cost was a huge factor when I bought track. Most of it I bought when I was in high school or college and had very limited income. You could buy three times as much brass track as nickel.
Wayne,might I suggest painting those concrete floors,it will keep the layout a lot cleaner.Im sure you knew that but others might not.
doctorwayneIf you're planning to build a layout, your first step should be to finish the room where it will be located.
I use a spare bedroom-I hate all creepy crawly basements regardless if they're finished or not(shudder ) I clean track as needed usually twice a year with a bright boy..I stopped using 92% alcohol.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
BRAKIEIf nickel silver track stays cleaner, why are their so many topics asking how to keep track clean?
Nickel silver rail, like brass rail, oxidises, but unlike the oxidation on brass rail, that on nickel silver remains a good electrical conductor.The need, or at least part of the need, to clean brass track is to remove the oxidation. If you need to clean your nickel silver track, it's probably because it's dirty...dirty as in there's dirt on it. I've found that a clean environment for the layout is a key factor in obviating the need for track cleaning.My current layout has been in use for over 25 years, and the only time I've cleaned track in the traditional sense is after ballasting or adding ground cover near the tracks. That cleaning, done with a fine abrasive block meant for cleaning electrical contacts, is simply to remove the film of diluted white glue which often covers the rails in the immediate area.Other than that, a yearly (or bi-yearly) vacuuming of the track and structures with my shop vac keeps the trains running reliably.The layout room, in the basement, is drywalled and has a drop ceiling and a door, and no windows or furnace/ac outlets. The bare concrete floor is vacuumed regularly, never swept. Well-insulated, the temperature is comfortable year-round.If you're planning to build a layout, your first step should be to finish the room where it will be located. Yes, it's an extra expense, but if you consider your time to be valuable and don't enjoy wasting it on track cleaning, it is money well-spent. It also gives you a pleasant environment in which to build and operate the layout.
Well I was already to post my thoughts on this thread but then I saw I already had -- when it was new in 2012!
But I am reminded that during WWII when metals were strategic supplies and there was no new track being sold, some enterprising firm created milled WOOD rail so that a desperate modeler could shorten the sidings where the locomotive never went, and thus scrounge enough bits of brass rail and use them elsewhere. If someone laid in a supply of that wood rail perhaps they can finally use it when "dead rail" takes over
Dave Nelson
rrinkerSteel rail is even better than brass for tractive effort,(snip)
I didn't know that but,I've never used steel track.
Brass is 'stickier' than nickel silver. Back in the brass only days, most locos could easily outpull their prototype - but not just because of brass track. Many were metal, not plastic with a slug of lead in the boiler. And Athearn diesels all has the sintered iron wheels which are great for tractive effort but not so great as far as holding dirt and making quality electrical contact. NWSL did a booming business in replacement nickel-silver wheels for Athearn BB locos. Replace the sintered iron wheels with the NWSL ones improved slow speed oepration and reduced cleaning, at the expense of tractive effort.
Steel rail is even better than brass for tractive effort, but outside of a brief period way back, the only place I've ever seen it used in quantity was in train set quality stuff. And the black base Bachmann EZ-Track. Conductivity is much worse than brass.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Sir MadogI wouldn´t have thought that brass track is still an issue in 2017...
Brass track is good and can be found on e-Bay and at train shows.The only thing bad about brass track is the negative press it got when NS track first hit the market and there are those that never use it repeating what they read or been told.
Seems we had more tractive effort with brass track then we do now..
I have not seen any brass track for over 40 years now. Most manufacturers selling N scale, HO scale or any of the HO scale NG track, is using nickel silver rails for their track. Marklin is using stainless steel rails in their 3 rail AC track. The only track I know of being made of brass is LGB´s G scale track, or am I mistaken?
I wouldn´t have thought that brass track is still an issue in 2017...
Because not many of us can afford gold, or platinum track, Larry.
LOL! Good answer!
Where can I get code 83 brass track?
Dave
Just be glad you don't have to press "2" for English.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ_ALEdDUB8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hqFS1GZL4s
http://s73.photobucket.com/user/steemtrayn/media/MovingcoalontheDCM.mp4.html?sort=3&o=27
It all boils down to this,If you use brass track & it suits your needs then use brass track,if you use nickel silver track & you are happy with it use it. I have used both.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
ATSFGuy Which track works better? Depends on how much you're into track cleaning!!
ATSFGuy Which track works better?
Depends on how much you're into track cleaning!!
If nickel silver track stays cleaner, why are their so many topics asking how to keep track clean?
ATSFGuyWhich track works better?
Which track works better?
Might be easier to super glue silver strips to the top of the rails.
Realistically, by the time you factor in the cost of the solder (and you'll have to periodically redo it) it's probably cheaper just to buy NS and paint the sides.
But hey, if you're just curious then give it a try. Let us know how it goes
Paul
I suspect the coefficient of friction for typical model locomotive wheels and solder is kind of low.
Example of high coefficient of friction:
If you want to pursue the "silvering" of brass rail, this would likely work better:
http://www.goldn.co.uk/gold-silver-pen-plating-kit-battery-powered/
How do you propose to get a uniform coating of solder with out dribbles on the inside that would affect the gauge or hills and valleys that would bounce the train and not melt more than a few ties in the process?
Having figured that out, who is going to bend over and huff solder fumes while they solder the tops of 100-500 feet of track?
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I have heard the arguments for both sides when talking about brass vs. nickle silver vs. steel rail. I'm curious about something. I used brass track back in 1978 when I was starting out in the hobby and I have to say it corroded quickly and always had to be kept clean. However, the corrossion gives the rail a rather realistic coloring to it. So, my question is, what do you think would happen if the top of the rail was coated with solder? Would it corrode, would the trains still run smoothly and pickup power correctly? It's something that recently has given me something to think about. Wondering if anyone has ever tried doing that? Something I may try if I can get a piece of brass rail and see what happens...
Bill
TA462I had that very same truck. My little red 97 ZR2 would go anywhere any other truck or Jeep would go. It was probably the best off road vehicle I ever owned. The only thing it wouldn't do is tow my Trans Am to the race track.
Bottom line for me is: I will use what I want (nickle silver) and I don't care what you use. There is no controversy in my opinion. Everyone is allowed and welcomed to use what you want. If it works for you fine.
Bob
There's never been a controversy of any significance. NS is much superior. That's clearly been demonstrated by the market place.
Unless you follow the Gleam regime.
It really does not matter what type of track you run on...everybody, at some point needs to clean their track.
Unless your layout is in a cleanroom....
Any argument carried far enough will end up in Semantics--Hartz's law of rhetoric Emerald. Leemer and Southern The route of the Sceptre Express Barry
I just started my blog site...more stuff to come...
http://modeltrainswithmusic.blogspot.ca/
I think you're funning us on throwing brass loco's in the garbage, or am I wrong. Hey while we're on the subject of which track is bestest, leave 6 or so of your rolling stock with plastic wheels, don't change them to horrible metal stuff. The plastic wheels pick up dirt better than anything I know of, so you won't have to keep cleaning you track everytime you have a running session. I've read on some forums that even guys with nothing but NS, still have to clean track every time they try to run trains.
Now since the plastic wheels get so gummy with big time dirt, you only have to clean the plastic wheels on the few cars with alcohol and q tip once a week, or month. No more expensive track cleaning cars $100 or more that quit after 2 hours of running! Works like a charm! You see those horrible metal wheels do nothing but push the dirt and grime into those tiny little scratch's you put there with your brite boy abravsive blocks, might as well use sandpaper, does the same thing!
LOL, Jim
tatans ... Hey ! by golly, I think you are right, I saw some guys out lurking in my yard, could be them, anyway, I like brass track, and they like non-brass track and we are all happy, happy, happy eh? and I'm not telling anyone about all the beautiful brass locomotives available for $250 to $300 that no one seems to want, thanks guys. I think this forum may soon be ending, 'nuff said !
...
Hey ! by golly, I think you are right, I saw some guys out lurking in my yard, could be them, anyway, I like brass track, and they like non-brass track and we are all happy, happy, happy eh? and I'm not telling anyone about all the beautiful brass locomotives available for $250 to $300 that no one seems to want, thanks guys.
I think this forum may soon be ending, 'nuff said !
I dumped all my Brass locomotives in the trash years ago and bought Nickel Silver locomotives instead. Cost a bit more, but hey you gotta keep up with the times.
I'm just thankful that we're not on the Gold standard.