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Old Dog, New Trick

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Old Dog, New Trick
Posted by dharmon on Monday, July 12, 2004 10:26 AM
The thread on heat and rolling stock storage brought something to mind. I have been a model railroader on and off for almost thirty years now. (Wow....for some of you, you have no idea how hard that is to say....). But as with anything, one is never too old to learn something new.

I have a number of older cars (Athearn, MDC, Details West) cars that I put together years ago and still use. I had a couple which I recently had to get new underframes for. They were warping, bowing actually, and the first indication I noticed was that the coupler heights were out of whack on both ends and uncoupling under a load. I mentioned this at my LHS, and the first thing he asked me was if I had attached the weights to the floors using Walther's Goo.....which I had. He told me that over time, the solvents in Goo can cause plastic to warp, particularly if it is stored in warmer locations. I did not know this and had been doing it for years.......Hmmm. It doesn't happen all the time, but can occur. According to the LHS guy, Goo was really designed for attaching metal to wood for the older craftsman kits, when plastic models were not as prevalent.

Some folks may have known this, I did not. Just proving that your never too old to pick up a new tip.

Thought I'd pass this along.
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Posted by fmilhaupt on Monday, July 12, 2004 10:37 AM
To avoid that sort of problem (and since I'm not much for contact cements), I've been using silicone RTV bathtub caulk to hold down weights.

I'd tried using ACC, but the failure rate over time was too high- it dried too brittle. Plus, the stuff was just too expensive when weighting a large-ish fleet of rolling stock. RTV remains flexible and can absorb the stresses from the different expansion and contraction rates of dissimilar materials.

Lately, my weight material choice for boxcars, covered hoppers and any other car that has enough enclosed room has been pennies.

-Fritz Milhaupt, Publications Editor, Pere Marquette Historical Society, Inc.
http://www.pmhistsoc.org

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 12, 2004 11:44 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by fmilhaupt

Lately, my weight material choice for boxcars, covered hoppers and any other car that has enough enclosed room has been pennies.

I've been using pennies as weights for years. Cheap, easy to handle, and conveniently sized. I use 5 minute epoxy to glue them to the car decks.
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Posted by areibel on Monday, July 12, 2004 3:00 PM
That's a new one for me too! I haven't used Goo in quite a while (my little rebellion against Walthers) but it's good to ow there are hazards. I wonder if other similar adhesives like Duco cement will damage anything?
Cambridge Springs- Halfway from New York to Chicago on the Erie Lackawanna!
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Posted by jfugate on Monday, July 12, 2004 4:13 PM
I too use pennies for weight inside HO cars. I stick the pennies down with double-stick foam tape. It's quick and the pennies stay put very well. Plus it doesn't hurt plastic.

You can get large rolls of double-stick foam tape at office supply stores for very cheap.

Joe Fugate Modeling the 1980s SP Siskiyou Line in southern Oregon

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Posted by easyaces on Monday, July 12, 2004 7:22 PM
Sorry to say that "Duco Cement" has toluine in it and will eat and or warp plastic over a period of time too. The adhesive on double sided sticky tape will to or the adhesive will deteriorate and release. I use BB's in hoppers ,tankers, and gons, and small split-shot sinkers in boxcars[:D] with just a few drops of zap and everything stays in place.
MR&L(Muncie,Rochester&Lafayette)"Serving the Hoosier Triangle" "If you lost it in the Hoosier Triangle, We probably shipped it " !!
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 12, 2004 7:44 PM
Hmmm ... there's sometjhing I hadn't thought of .[xx(]

Any of the European members on this forum know whats in UHU? Will it attack plastic, I note on the tube it says not to glue polystyrene with it?

Like fmilhaupt I found ACC failed too often. Maybe an Epoxy resin (one UK brand name is Araldite) might work?

James
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Posted by philnrunt on Monday, July 12, 2004 7:57 PM
Oh great, now I have to try to remember what cars were glued with what!
I had no idea this could happen. I went to pennies a few years back, used everything from Goo to JB Weld to attach them. Sure wish I had kept better records on what I used for the factory supplied weight, tho.
Thanks for the heads up!
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Posted by dharmon on Monday, July 12, 2004 10:59 PM
I forgot to mention that from now on, it's double sided fom tape for me....

As for weights, I've found that tire dealers will give you some with the foam tape adhesive if you ask. After shelling out the several hundred bucks for a new set, I guess they figure it's the least they can do. One of the guys at the club went down and asked to buy some and they gave him a two pound bag of the strips..gratis, with a few business cards to leave in the club.

For hoppers and tank cars I use BBs or junk bolts set in white glue.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 12, 2004 11:27 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by fmilhaupt
Lately, my weight material choice for boxcars, covered hoppers and any other car that has enough enclosed room has been pennies.


Isnt it kinda funny, that a pound of pennies is cheaper than a pound of lead?[:D]
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Posted by Vampire on Tuesday, July 13, 2004 3:38 AM
I discovered this problem the hard way too. I built a couple of Red Caboose drop bottom gondolas about a year ago. On one of them the sides began warping severely and bowing inwards. I also noted the interior floor doesn't have a flat spot left on it! I'm still trying to fix this car... funny thing is the other car seems fine, just some slight warping of the floor in a couple spots. I'm hoping it stays that way.
Now I'm wondering what will happen to all those Athearn/Stewart/Accurail coal hoppers I've built with the weights Goo'd in? From now on I'll use RTV. It should do the job nicely and doesn't smell so bad either.
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Posted by CBQ_Guy on Tuesday, July 20, 2004 5:10 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by dharmon

The thread on heat and rolling stock storage brought something to mind. I have been a model railroader on and off for almost thirty years now. (Wow....for some of you, you have no idea how hard that is to say....). But as with anything, one is never too old to learn something new.

I have a number of older cars (Athearn, MDC, Details West) cars that I put together years ago and still use. I had a couple which I recently had to get new underframes for. They were warping, bowing actually, and the first indication I noticed was that the coupler heights were out of whack on both ends and uncoupling under a load. I mentioned this at my LHS, and the first thing he asked me was if I had attached the weights to the floors using Walther's Goo.....which I had. He told me that over time, the solvents in Goo can cause plastic to warp, particularly if it is stored in warmer locations. I did not know this and had been doing it for years.......Hmmm. It doesn't happen all the time, but can occur. According to the LHS guy, Goo was really designed for attaching metal to wood for the older craftsman kits, when plastic models were not as prevalent.

Some folks may have known this, I did not. Just proving that your never too old to pick up a new tip.

Thought I'd pass this along.


D'oh! I've been using GOO to glue in pennies for weights inside my boxcars for years. And they've all been stored away in boxes for over six years since I moved here. Now I wonder what shape they'll be in when I unpack!

Thanks for the info (I think...)
"Paul [Kossart] - The CB&Q Guy" [In Illinois] ~ Modeling the CB&Q and its fictional 'Illiniwek River-Subdivision-Branch Line' in the 1960's. ~
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 20, 2004 6:39 PM
I stopped using GOO when the first Walthers automobile racks came out. I follwed Walthers instructions and used GOO to glue the aluminum pieces to the sides of the cars. The pieces warped within about a month. Later versions of those kits contained a supplemental instruction explicitly stating not to use GOO.

I built one of the old wooden Piker kits about 20 years ago and I used GOO on that--it worked well.
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Posted by Noah Hofrichter on Friday, July 30, 2004 1:33 PM
So after reading all this about cars warping (a very bad thing, no want it to happen), is CA okay to use in cars? This is what I've used on a few cars for the factory weights, and now I want to glue some pennies inside a scratch built car for weight, and I definately don't want to damage the car as I've worked hard on it.

Noah
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Posted by nfmisso on Friday, July 30, 2004 1:45 PM
Regular CA is too brittle to use to attach materials with different coefficients of thermal expansion. Gel type CA is okay. RTV is by far the cheapest solution. Epoxy is okay too. White or yellow glue works too. As does Aleene's Tacky Glue - which is my preference.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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Posted by Hawks05 on Friday, July 30, 2004 2:08 PM
i'm screwed then. before i realized that the undersides just snapped to the hopper or boxcar i would always glue the weight down, with Goo. now i have to be careful because where my trains are it can get to be over 100 degrees in that room. i'll probably have warped cars then.
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Posted by Noah Hofrichter on Friday, July 30, 2004 2:44 PM
I'll probably use white glue then, as I have a good amount of that on hand, thanks.

Noah
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 30, 2004 2:46 PM
[soapbox]

It's a conspiracy by Walthers to make us all buy new cars!

Just kidding.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 30, 2004 3:13 PM
I only use Goo to glue in the nuts Branchline uses. I generally CA on stick-on weights (I find the sticky tape doesn't, so I CA it)

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