Can't wait to see it, Darth!
About the paint...did you use some sort of primer?
Robert Beaty
The Laughing Hippie
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The CF-7...a waste of a perfectly good F-unit!
Then it comes to be that the soothing light at the
end of your tunnel, Was just a freight train coming
your way. -Metallica, No Leaf Clover
I brought my Shays home from painting today, and have mainly been working on the Keystone. The boiler, cab, frame, and engine are now permanently assembled together, and my 6-diode constant lighting circuit with all the wiring is sealed inside (except for the wire I need to access later, which will be taped off for the dull coat). Almost all of the detail is assembled, and all it needs now before the final clear dull coat is some touch up paint and the decals. It's looking even better than I imagined it would, and I'll post pictures tomorrow.
(Note to painters: Scalecoat II seems to have a little trouble with soft white metal, and I had to touch up a lot of thin spots (yes, I know it's meant more for plastic). It does do fine on the more typical cast metal used in most kits, and on brass)
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Wow, I'm jealous. 2 Shays? Thats sounds like a small fleet I'd like to own. I've been following your thread because I'm interested in trying this project out someday. Can't wait to see the new addition.. And the final products once they're painted. Good work!
I've decided to hold off on the painting for a little while. I recently got a very good deal on a new MDC 3-truck Shay kit (I say "new" because it comes with a can motor) with both of NWSL's gear kits included. It should be coming today, and I'll focus on building it. Once it's built, I'll paint it and the Keystone Shay together.
BTW, did any major railroads use Class A Shays? Or were they only used by small railroads that no manufacturer in their right mind would make HO scale decals for?
I've now rebuilt the crankshaft.
The only thing that was replaced was the center shaft. I modified the Keystone parts to fit on a 1.5mm NWSL steel shaft, epoxied the whole thing together, and it WORKS!
Now that that's done, I should be able to get to painting soon.
I'm starting to get the Shay ready for painting. When I pulled the crankshaft out of the engine, it basically fell apart. I tried putting it together again, but it bent out of shape enough that I can't get it to work smoothly.
I'm going to try and rebuild the crankshaft using the leftover 1.5mm steel shaft provided by NWSL for the universals (I've got about 1.5" left over ). And instead of holding it together with super-glue, I'm going to use epoxy. It should be much stronger than before, so the "engine" will work again, hopefully!
Darth Santa FejwhittenWhat is the reddish wire that you're using? It's coated copper wire. I have a whole spool of it on my workbench, and I've found it to be extremely useful for a number of things. I prefer it over brass wire for large curved details, because it's much easier to get a smooth curve out of it. It's also the same thickness as the usual brass detail wire, so it looks exactly the same once it's painted. But brass wire is still better for details that need a sharp bend or more durability, like grab irons.
jwhittenWhat is the reddish wire that you're using?
It's coated copper wire. I have a whole spool of it on my workbench, and I've found it to be extremely useful for a number of things. I prefer it over brass wire for large curved details, because it's much easier to get a smooth curve out of it. It's also the same thickness as the usual brass detail wire, so it looks exactly the same once it's painted. But brass wire is still better for details that need a sharp bend or more durability, like grab irons.
That's cool. I was imagining that after it was painted and thinking that will look pretty good.
Darth Santa FeSince the Shay's running pretty well now, I've decided to start with the detailing, It's hard to find any good pictures of this sort of Shay, so I'm using other Shay models and pictures for reference. Some of the detail parts will be left off during painting to simplify masking. I think this is going to look pretty nice when it's all done.
Since the Shay's running pretty well now, I've decided to start with the detailing,
It's hard to find any good pictures of this sort of Shay, so I'm using other Shay models and pictures for reference. Some of the detail parts will be left off during painting to simplify masking. I think this is going to look pretty nice when it's all done.
What is the reddish wire that you're using?
John
That's really cool! Good luck on the project and here's hoping you'll post more pictures!
Arjay1969Have you seen http://www.shaylocomotives.com/? I found it quite useful when building one of these for a friend of mine in HOn3.
I have seen that website before, but thanks for the link. It's still hard to find photos of a Class A, but from what's there it looks like I've got most all of the basic piping on. Nobody seems to take many photos of the left side of the good ones, do they?
It's looking pretty nice already.
The Location: Forests of the Pacific Northwest, OregonThe Year: 1948The Scale: On30The Blog: http://bvlcorr.tumblr.com
Darth Santa FeIt's hard to find any good pictures of this sort of Shay, so I'm using other Shay models and pictures for reference. Some of the detail parts will be left off during painting to simplify masking. I think this is going to look pretty nice when it's all done.
Very nice indeed, Darth! Can't wait to see her in paint!
Have you seen http://www.shaylocomotives.com/? I found it quite useful when building one of these for a friend of mine in HOn3.
New update!
I put in temporary wiring from the rear truck to the motor to test it on the layout. It runs along nice and smooth, but the metal gears will need plenty of time for getting fully broken-in. Realistic speeds are up to about 5.5V (about 10 scale MPH, I'm guessing), and beyond that the engine's crankshaft spins too quickly to look realistic. It's still a nice runner, however. NWSL provides super flexible wire for the trucks, which I'll use for the final assembly and wiring.
I got the rest of my parts from NWSL today! Both trucks are now powered, and I've got a good motor running it. On just a 9" straight track, the Shay runs smooooth. Low speeds aren't great yet, but they should improve a lot once I get it to the point that I can run it on my layout and break it in. I don't have any pictures yet, but I'll be sure to post some later.
According to NWSL, the 10x25mm can motor has a 3-pole skewed armature, and the armature's diameter is around 15% larger than other motors of the same width, giving it more power (stall torque = 0.3 oz-in, which is a lot for this motor's size).
Darth, even though I'm an N scale modern era diesel nut, I can't help but look at your build threads and marvel at your work. Thank you for posting your progress so far and please continue to do so,a nd excellent work so far!
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
rekleinLoose Clu and Darth Sante Fe, Would you guys mind sharing your websites concerning the mods to these little shays,Please? Great thread by the way. Wish I could see more of this kind of thing on the forum. BILL
Here's someone else's topic on another forum. It has some good tips in it:http://www.cardmodels.net/forum/showthread.php?t=100607
And here's another website that sems to be the most common reference for making the Keystone Shay run well:http://www.mrollins.com/keyshay.html
I can't find much more information than that online. There may be other websites with tips on building, but I found these two to have the most in them.
I'm watching an MDC Shay on eBay right now, so there may be another progress topic coming up eventually.
Loose Clu and Darth Sante Fe, Would you guys mind sharing your websites concerning the mods to these little shays,Please? Great thread by the way. Wish I could see more of this kind of thing on the forum. BILL
The other truck is now assembled and rolling smoothly.
I cut off the front truck's square shaft and replaced it with brass wire. Things weren't working smoothly with both trucks connected to the engine, so only one truck will drive it. I don't have the worm assembly for the front truck yet, but with only the rear truck driving, the Shay works pretty smoothly on a 9" straight track.
This is as far as I can go until the new wormshaft and motor arrive from NWSL. I think they shipped the parts on Thursday, so they should get here soon.
I've gotten one of the trucks assembled and working!
It works pretty smoothly, but it will need grease in the gears and break-in time before it's perfect. But I'm pretty happy so far!
LooseClu, the straight rod in place of the crankshaft will be stronger and longer lasting, but I still wanted the motion to go with it. If it ever starts wearing out, I'm sure I'll find a way to fix it (probably with brass rod on each end, mounted on shrunken original shafts). I've also found a few webpages with tips and tricks for building the Keystone Shay, and I'll probably follow a couple suggestions. I hope you have fun with your kit(s).
DouglasJMeyer, the new kits don't include the harder sideframes (Keystone's fault), and the motor is a cheap open-frame type. The cheap motor is still a decent runner, but it's not as good as a higher quality can motor. If built right, I'm sure the soft stock sideframes will still last a while.
Ok so if I get this right the kit no longer has a can motor or the good sideframes? I just want to make sure. I did one of these a long time back and just want to make sure what we are talking about.
Doug M
After looking over the soft Keystone side shafts, I decided I would follow the suggested replacement of the Keystone 'crankshaft' with a strait rod. Even thought you have gotten them to run smoothly I have some serious reservations about their ability to hold up under higher rpms. The piston connecting rods won't go up and down but that's a price I'm willing to pay in order to keep the tiny loco in service. I bought mine planning on using the parts to build a vertical boiler critter to shuffle log buggies around the sawmill. That little Keystone 2-truck Shay is so cute I've decided to build it then buy another NWSL kit for my vert. boiler plans. I too was disappointed with the open frame motor but they told me up front that's what I would be getting when I ordered it from NWSL. I found a good web page that deals with building and tuning the diminutive Keystone/NWSL Shay and it suggested the strait shaft modification. I am happy that you will be posting your construction progress- it will probably save me from making mistakes when I get around to that job. I'll be delaying building mine until this summer when it’s too hot in the garage to work on the layout (and I get the benefit of seeing how you've dealt with those kits).
Roy
Roy Onward into the fog http://s1014.photobucket.com/albums/af269/looseclu/
Ok, I just got all the problems worked out with NWSL. The website listing was incorrect about the included motor, so they gave me $10 credit. So I get to keep the square motor, and I'm basically getting $10 off the full price of the other motor. They're also sending the missing worm assembly free, and aren't charging for shipping either. So I should have my full kit soon, and I get to have an extra motor.
I've now made the final modifications to the gearbox area.
Looking good Darth!
Again, great thread. I like those metal line shaft gears, looks like real quality components.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
I've now made a little more progress on the Shay. Since the only part truly missing is one of the worm assemblies, I can still do most of the major work.
So far, getting this kit put together and running isn't as hard as I thought it would be. The metal is soft, so great care must be taken (especially with the frame). If I can't get the right motor from NWSL, then I've found a 12x20mm coreless motor by Namiki that should work very well. The ideal size to fit in the tender easily would be 10x20mm (10x25 max), but it shouldn't be hard to open an extra 2mm if needed.
cjcrescent Marty and Fred; A NG modeler from Mississippi has bought all the unused kits and parts for the MDC shay from Horizon. He is now offering what he calls semi-kits for sale. These are not standard MDC kits. The models are offered for specific prototypes, mostly HOn3. They do come with custom made brass parts to match the prototype, plus a complete list of extra detail parts you need for each prototype. The chassis comes assembled with a can motor and both NWSL shay regear kits installed. Eight wheel pick-up is also installed. These are sweet runners. Depending on prototype, custom made cab pieces and brass frame end castings are included. He also has a line of custom parts, (brass), for shays, passenger & freight cars, and I think even other NG locos. The instructions are a lot more complete than the MDC instructions and he even tells you which suggestions to follow from Jeff Johnston's "The MDC Shay Handbook". I am currently assembling a Mann's Creek #2, and a "generic" standard gauge shay. I am not suggesting to anyone to buy this kit, nor am I "shilling" for the man. But he has taken what can be a good kit and made it great. I believe he advertises in the NG&SLG and possibly our host's magazine. If you want more info, contact me via e-mail/PM and I will give you his contact info.
Marty and Fred;
A NG modeler from Mississippi has bought all the unused kits and parts for the MDC shay from Horizon. He is now offering what he calls semi-kits for sale. These are not standard MDC kits. The models are offered for specific prototypes, mostly HOn3. They do come with custom made brass parts to match the prototype, plus a complete list of extra detail parts you need for each prototype.
The chassis comes assembled with a can motor and both NWSL shay regear kits installed. Eight wheel pick-up is also installed. These are sweet runners. Depending on prototype, custom made cab pieces and brass frame end castings are included. He also has a line of custom parts, (brass), for shays, passenger & freight cars, and I think even other NG locos.
The instructions are a lot more complete than the MDC instructions and he even tells you which suggestions to follow from Jeff Johnston's "The MDC Shay Handbook".
I am currently assembling a Mann's Creek #2, and a "generic" standard gauge shay.
I am not suggesting to anyone to buy this kit, nor am I "shilling" for the man. But he has taken what can be a good kit and made it great. I believe he advertises in the NG&SLG and possibly our host's magazine. If you want more info, contact me via e-mail/PM and I will give you his contact info.
I appreciate the information. I had seen the notices about the improved and partially assembled Shay kits on a few Yahoo groups that I subscribe to. I have my own Roundhouse Shay to build - a Christmas gift was the boiler and detail backdate kit from Wiseman. My next order is the NWSL regear kits. Since I already have the Roundhouse kit and some of the details, the package price was a little daunting.
In my case, the Roundhouse Shay will be used on standard gauge, where the frame width is more appropriate for my 1900-era Shays. I had considered using Roundhouse kits in lieu of the Keystone for my narrow gauge power, but the same frame on the HO and HOn3 versions is a little wide for my era, and the 3 cylinder engine is on the heavy side for a narrow gauge logger of 1900. Also, on my 20" long switchback tails and 6% grades, the short length of the Keystone and metal construction will work better despite the more difficult build. The Roundhouse Shay will be a good visual contrast with the smaller, 2 cylinder Keystone Shays on the narrow gauge line.
But thanks again very much for your kind offers.
Fred W
Awesome link. Thanks.