Somebody on WPF asked me for advice on painting and detailing a Walthers Merchants Row kit. I didn't want to hijack the WPF thread so I started my own here. I'll share what others have told me, and what I did - FWIW.
3/4-angle view from the left
Head-on front view
3/4-angle view from the right
Birds-eye view of the rear
1) Rule #1: Give yourself all the time you need to do things properly, don't try to meet a self-imposed deadline2) The Walthers instruction sheet is flawed - they say to glue the window 'glass' in first. DON'T!!...painting the window frames will be much more difficult if you have to worry about getting paint on the glass. Installing the glass panes should be one of the LAST steps of the project.3) Get 10 swatches of junk styrene; paint 5 of them in the same colors you plan on painting the bricks, and paint the other 5 pieces in the colors you want for your wood trim. Hold the 'brick' pieces beside their corresponding 'frame' pieces to see if the colors compliment each other, before you paint the actual model.4) Paint all of your doorways, window frames and wood trim before you paint any bricks. It's easier to touch-up/repaint a 'plain' surface than to redo bricks with their mortar lines.5) After you're done with your window frames etc., paint the brick surfaces in their primary colors.
Never mind about 4 and 5 - it doesn't really make much difference after all which parts you do first!
6) Pre-mix a concrete-colored wash for your mortar lines, and gently dab it into the crevices between the bricks with a fine-point paintbrush. The wash will be sucked into the surrounding crevices by capillary action. When the wash dries it may not be as visible, so you'll likely need to repeat the application 2 or 3 times.7) The kit does not include interior floors or walls, so I made some crude ones out of Evergreen sheet styene and put those inside. (IMHO, nothing makes this type of structure look more toy-like than being able to see all the way across a wide open interior thru the windows on the opposite side.)8) Forget about using the Walthers "glass" panels; cut some thin Evergreen clear styrene into the sizes/shapes you'll need to fit over the window openings between the walls. I used Aileen's Tacky Glue (available at Michaels Arts & Crafts, similar to Elmers but more concentrated) since it won't damage the clear styrene if it strays onto a visible area - just wait until it dries then gently scrape it off. 9) After you've cemented the brick boundary walls and chimneys to the roof, DO NOT cement the roof to the structure - you may want to remove it later to add interior details.10) For the window decals, I downloaded various beer/pizza company logos and advertising photos from the internet, and printed my own. I had to print several 'dry runs' on regular paper to make sure they were sized correctly for the windows, before printing on the decal paper itself.
Good luck! And if you're happy with your results, share some pics with us here.
-Ken in Maryland (B&O modeler, former CSX modeler)
Thank you for posting this valuable information I am going to assemble the Walthers City Station in the summer after I am finished with school for the year and will use the same techniques that you mentioned. I am going to add an interior and will find a way to make the roof removable.
Will
Ken
Thanks for posting these guides to Merchants Row.
Another possibility for windows is a new product from Miniatronics. They have had some window signs for a long time, but are releasing some of them as electroluminescent (EL) signs. The windows are 1-1/8" W x 1-5/8" H and run on 3V DC. I have not used any, but saw them at the Springfield show a couple of months ago. They look good
http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=5_6
This are links to their older style (non-EL) signs for HO/O scale and N scale
http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=5_2http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=5_1
For lighting, the have a lighting kit using Yeloglo LEDs. The surface mount LEDs come on a circuit board strip that can be cut and rewired to light up to 7 buildings or rooms. It runs on AC or DC power. I have the passenger car version of this, and it looks great.
http://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=M&Product_Code=100-IBL-01&Category_Code=N&Product_Count=10
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Thanks for posting. That's pretty much the same way I do mine except I paint my brick first and then do my windows and trim. I mask off what I can and airbrush. Paint the rest by hand. City Classics has some real nice window treatments that are printed on plastic. Much easier than printing out drapes and blinds on the computer.
Excellent thread!
I will be purchasing some of the Walthers DPM and Cornerstone kits soon and will definetly refer to this thread. I have the Walthers Car Shop kit, which I'm going to convert into a diesel shop on my new layot. The tips on the brick coloring and mortar effects will come in handy.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
loathar Thanks for posting. That's pretty much the same way I do mine except I paint my brick first and then do my windows and trim. I mask off what I can and airbrush. Paint the rest by hand.
Thanks for posting. That's pretty much the same way I do mine except I paint my brick first and then do my windows and trim. I mask off what I can and airbrush. Paint the rest by hand.
I like to paint the brick first & install the windows last. For signs I like to copy & paste signs I find on line, resize to my scale, print on photo paper for glossy metal signs, or cardstock. Here are some I found.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also you can find background buildings.
Ken L .... Great thread, and congrats on your outstanding work!
Tomkat ...thanks for posting signs.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
Hey guys, thank you all for replying - glad you found it useful!
George, looks like I'll have to get me one of those PIZZA neon signs - that would really complete my pizza shop! Now about my taverns, if only they could do some neon signs that say Coors...
Loathar - I guess it really doesn't make a difference whether we paint the brick or windows first, but the guy who gave me that piece of advice was pretty insistent about it and he's built up a few entire HO scale city blocks so I assumed he knew what he was talking about...
Tom Kat, I might redo some of my window signs using your method. Black inkjet printer ink seems to develop cracks when it dries on decal paper, as you might have noticed from some of my closeups; glossy photo paper might solve that problem. BTW- do you know if there are any online sign collections for the 1990's that are similar to those ones you posted for the 50's?
As long as we're at this point, does anyone remember the thread in which a modeler posted links or photos showing a wide variety of curtains and drapes in a nice array of colors that could be used for HO scale buildings?
I had downloaded and saved those pictures, however, but them lost them when one a portion of my computer's files were wiped out last year.
tomkat-13, thanks for posting the ads. I'd really appreciate it if you posted any more you care to share. Those are very good!
http://www.cgtextures.com/
This site has all sorts of items that can be used for floors, windows, roofing
I have used them with great results
Joe
One thing I forgot to mention in my prior post. If you plan to light the building, before you paint anything, paint the interior with flat black, I use Rustoleum in a spray can). Follow with flat white (I use Rustoleum white primer). Before spraying any exterior colors, mask off all the windows on the inside to keep overspray off the white walls.
CSX_road_slugif only they could do some neon signs that say Coors...
Miniatronics tends to keep their signs generic to avoid licensing costs.
CSX_road_slug Tom Kat, I might redo some of my window signs using your method. Black inkjet printer ink seems to develop cracks when it dries on decal paper, as you might have noticed from some of my closeups; glossy photo paper might solve that problem. BTW- do you know if there are any online sign collections for the 1990's that are similar to those ones you posted for the 50's?
I get most of my signs off ebay: Go to..... categories- collectables-avertising then put "sign" into the search. Then open the auctions that have the signs you want then copy & paste to a MS Publisher, MS Word, MS PAINT or other desktop that you can resize to your scale. I also search "decal", "sticker", "patch", "logo" ect
You also can find road signs, background buildings ect.
Great suggestions. I actually never read the sheet to begin with. But your ideas are real helpful, especially #8.
nw_fan tomkat-13, thanks for posting the ads. I'd really appreciate it if you posted any more you care to share. Those are very good!
Here are some more.......just copy & paste!
More Signs
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for posting. The alternative colors on the front could also be typical of painted brick very popular in the 60's in city row homes. The mortar joints would also be painted. The treatment of the rear is also great. I had not thought of "white washing" like you have. great job!
Chris
Thank you for the signs, tomcat. Those are great!
Nice pictures, excellent modeling.
If you light buildings, you want to paint the interior to prevent the plastic walls and roof from glowing in the dark. You also want to caulk any light leaks at the joints. Some recommend black paint, but it soaks up a lot of the light. I use lighter colors. If fully detailed interiors seem a bit too much, at least install floors in multi story buildings. The view in the windows is much improved if you see a floor where it's supposed to be rather than a yawing gap right down to the basement. They make a thin copper sticky tape which makes wiring interior lights much easier. The tape sticks to the walls and stays out of sight and you can solder to it.
220 grit silicon carbide sandpaper makes good looking roofing material for flat city roofs. It's black and puts some texture into your simulated tar and gravel roofs.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
I too have just started building the Walthers Merchants Row [I have both the 1 and 2 models]. I started with my usual technique of spray can painting the walls [masking the various businesses] and then painting the windows by hand with acrylic paints, a small brush and a steady hand. They look OK from a distance but wouldn't stand close scrutiny. One of the posts mentioned masking what they could and airbrushing. I was a bit hesitant to do this for the windows since I thought this would be too fiddley. However, I tried it using Tamiya masking tape. I mounted the tape a little proud of the window edge [tweezers help here in placing] and then cut the corners with a sharp hobby knife and foulded the proud piece [about1/3 mm] over into the window opening. Burnish down the edges with a sharp wood tool. It actually didn't take that long. Mask the rest of the wall of course. After airbrushing [I use Scalecoat 1] - I was delighted with the result. The transition lines were very sharp. This is now my new technique and I will now experiment with blue painters tape [cheaper] and a spray can for the paint [no airbrush cleanup].
I would be interested in learn of other peoples' window painting techniques. Also thanks for all of the great poster images. I remember seeing an MR article recently that described a method of pasting "distressed" paper images onto the brick walls with white glue.
Alan
nw_fan Thank you for the signs, tomcat. Those are great
Thank you for the signs, tomcat. Those are great
Ok here are some more!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tomkat,
Many thanks to you for posting these ad and business signs! I'm going to be modeling a 1960s theme and now see that so many of these signs will complement the scenery quite well.
I've never used the computer printer decal paper before. Is there a particular brand that is recommendable? My printer is an HP Deskjet 841C, although I do have access to a laser printer.
Thanks for these signs. The Sinclair sign really brings back memories.
Thanks Doc,
I used Polly Scale acrylics for everything except the Soaking Pit facade (with the large blocks) - for that one I used "suede"-textured Latex paint. I hand-brushed everything on, since the bricks obscure any brush streaks that might have been visible on large smooth surfaces.
On larger flat surfaces like the cream-colored trim on the "for-sale-or-lease" storefront, I positioned the painted surface perfectly horizontal (i.e. level) and carefully dripped the paint onto it, until the entire surface was covered. I made absolutely sure not to disturb the structure while the paint was drying. Sometimes on recessed spaces, the paint would accumulate in the corners - whenever it did that, I waited for it to dry completely, then re-dripped just enough paint on to cover the thinly-coated area in the middle.
I needed a couple of low relief buildings for Exchange St, a street near the backdrop, so I am working on a Merchants Row 1 kitbash. From a row of buildings 5" deep, I have made 2 buildings. The one nearest the backdrop is 1/2" deep and is made from the building row fronts. The other is 2" deep and is made from the building backs; it will have a sheet of plain styrene for the street side since it will not be visible.
I have completed them enough for a test fit:
This is an end view:
I still need to add some detail to the roof to represent the false fronts on the backside building; then on to paint, paint, paint. I have them set up to add lighting in the future.
G PaineOne thing I forgot to mention in my prior post. If you plan to light the building, before you paint anything, paint the interior with flat black, I use Rustoleum in a spray can). Follow with flat white (I use Rustoleum white primer). Before spraying any exterior colors, mask off all the windows on the inside to keep overspray off the white walls. CSX_road_slugif only they could do some neon signs that say Coors... Miniatronics tends to keep their signs generic to avoid licensing costs.
Hi Everyone:
Very useful thread. You had asked for some photos - here are 2 of mine that were completed some time ago. I have since added the shop signs on the outside and some more wall and window decals.
I have since bought the Merchants Row 3 and assembled it with a minor kit bash. The orientaion was not how I wanted it in order to fit into the target location. I turned it from a left hand to a right hand orientaion. To do this I had to adjust the corner tabs for glueing the walls and had to cut a piece off of the roof and install in 2 sections. The wall and roof trim also had to be cut appropriately. The model is finished now and looks great. This particular model has separate windows so they can be painted before assembly. My technique for adding mortar is to wipe with drywall mud at a cream consistency and wipe clean after a minute or two. Then clean up around the windows etc with a tooothpick. Seal with dullcoat.
Outstanding piece of modeling. It says something about someone's ability as a modeler when they can make a simple kit like Merchants row look that good. I have to dig mind out and try it again I don't have the steady hands like I used to so painting mantels and sill ain't the easiest thing for me these days but again a fine fine job
DJOG PaineOne thing I forgot to mention in my prior post. If you plan to light the building, before you paint anything, paint the interior with flat black, I use Rustoleum in a spray can). Follow with flat white (I use Rustoleum white primer). Before spraying any exterior colors, mask off all the windows on the inside to keep overspray off the white walls. why do you need the white?
G PaineOne thing I forgot to mention in my prior post. If you plan to light the building, before you paint anything, paint the interior with flat black, I use Rustoleum in a spray can). Follow with flat white (I use Rustoleum white primer). Before spraying any exterior colors, mask off all the windows on the inside to keep overspray off the white walls.
why do you need the white?