Hmmmmm.... deseasels (as a steam lovin' friend of mine is fond of saying) only, huh.
I have a couple of Atlas non sound dcc units, ones a Fairbanks Morse model and a GP 7 and they're extremely smooth, quiet runners with only a very quiet motor noise. I've got a Kato SD40-2 thats smooth and silent also. A couple of P2Ks that are good and maybe one BLI unit could be put in there. Overall though the Atlas and the Kato are the smoothest and quietest.
Jarrell
mechanic wrote:I'm looking for everyones opinion on what the best running HO diesel locomotive might be.I'm not looking for a highly detailed locomotive (but i'm not anti-detail)I just want to know what loco out there that people have that runs the best.diesel only please and I'm running DC on my layout (ATM) if that makes a difference.ThanksEric
I'm looking for everyones opinion on what the best running HO diesel locomotive might be.
I'm not looking for a highly detailed locomotive (but i'm not anti-detail)
I just want to know what loco out there that people have that runs the best.
diesel only please and I'm running DC on my layout (ATM) if that makes a difference.
Thanks
Eric
I've run mostly protos, but I have ran an Atlas/Kato RS1, a BB SD40-2, and some of the newer bachmann FT units.
Out of what I ran:
1. Protos, usually (I have an SD9 that makes some grinding noise at higher speeds, might just need some lube)
2. Atlas/Kato RS-1, it's second best but considering it's age, it's exremly good.
3. Bachmann FTs, Actually is fairly quiet after being broken in. Makes a little grinding noise, but it's going away after every run. (makes less noise than the P2K SD9 I have)
4. BB SD40-2, made a lot of grinding noise
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
Don Gibson wrote: BEST? Best at what?PRICE: (cheapest) Bachmann & all Toy 'starter' sets.RUNNING: (consistant) KatoPULLING: InterMountainDETAIL: Proto 2000 & Newer releases (Varies)Above differences are minor - mostly on emphasis.QVERALL: (personal preference - individual models). InterMountain, Proto 2000, current Athearn (Genesis/RTR/B.B.kits.) EVERYONE HAS FAVORITES: depend on individals drawing different lines in the sand between acceptable vs. unacceptable. I like Engines that 'crawl' and cars that roll'. SOME have 1-2 engines, SOME 52, and compare. Some products are Generic while others try to be prototypical. Does that matter? Do you model a Prototype?
BEST? Best at what?
PRICE: (cheapest) Bachmann & all Toy 'starter' sets.
RUNNING: (consistant) Kato
PULLING: InterMountain
DETAIL: Proto 2000 & Newer releases (Varies)
Above differences are minor - mostly on emphasis.
QVERALL: (personal preference - individual models). InterMountain, Proto 2000, current Athearn (Genesis/RTR/B.B.kits.)
EVERYONE HAS FAVORITES: depend on individals drawing different lines in the sand between acceptable vs. unacceptable. I like Engines that 'crawl' and cars that roll'.
SOME have 1-2 engines, SOME 52, and compare. Some products are Generic while others try to be prototypical. Does that matter? Do you model a Prototype?
No mention on your list for the Stewart engines? I assume that is because you have none.
csxns wrote:Brakie, talking about Atlas locos the only problems i have is with two models the 8-40C and 8-40CW some of them have a humning noise but any other Atlas they run ok.Now the Athearn i think they are the most rugged trains out their.
The problems I had was the Micky Mouse type that can happen after months of excessive running.Still not sure what cause the DCC/ lightboard failure but,suspect it was a short since these engines had made dozens of trips across the layout over 2 year period without incident and according to the guy that was running them he was leaving the Millbrooke passing siding when the headlight brighten,dim brighten dim and then the engines stop..These are the dual mode GP38s.I finally decided to replace the DCC/Lightboards since I couldn't find any other cause.
At the Bucyrus club I use Athearn for the week of the county fair due to the hours I operate-averge 56 hours for the 8 days-and will rotate between Atlas and Athearn during our 1 or 2 day open houses.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Lotsa good and varied input here. My favorite, best runners, are still my Athearns. I say this 'cause of their simple, durable mechanisms that run very nicely when broken in such as my SW1500 here with over 50 hours of running time on her. She starts moving at around 1.5 volts and is very smooth throughout the speed range.
Literal answer is easy - Stewart F7 with Kato drive. I have other Stewart models that also run excellently but somehow the silence and smoothness of their F7 is simply unmatched.
Having said that, as others have noted there are many diesel models today that run EXTREMELY well. My Atlas/Kato, Athearn/Genesis F7, and later-production Proto 2000s, as well as my other Stewarts and the Intermountains, all run very well, on a scale of 100 if I put the Stewart F7 at 98 (well I can still hear something) these would be a 95 - 96.
csxns wrote:Now the Athearn i think they are the most rugged trains out their.
I agrea, my athearn RTR c44-9w derailed and fell about 2 1/2 to 3 ft and it still works fine. (I was scaerd it was busted up bad, but it still lives on.)
Russell
Rio said:but if you want a 99% chance of a smooth engine, stick to Stewart, KATO and Atlas.
Just don't bet the farm..I have had minor problems with 14 of my 37 Atlas locos to include having 4 out of 8 GP38 current boards to fail..The funniest was a "thumping noise..This turn out to be a small piece of Chinese noodle or rice.
I suspect that's what happens when these locomotives see extensive run time.
Of my 23 RTR Athearns I am yet to have any of the reported issues..I think a lot of Athearns QC problems is modelers believing they should run as smooth as a Atlas or Kato at half the cost..
To the original poster,
I would agree with don7's list (I have never ran an Intermountain howver):
don7 wrote: ...Stewart - Kato DriveAthearn GenesisStewart - Stewart DriveAtlasProto...
Stewart - Kato Drive
Athearn Genesis
Stewart - Stewart Drive
Atlas
Proto
...
As for the comments on Athearn being good runners. Athearn can be good runners but it's a bit of a crap shoot. Just as many have complained about noise etc. Athearns QAQC isn't solid so people get engines that need some help to be better. That said, if you need a tunnel motor, it has to be Athearn! I have lots of them but if you want a 99% chance of a smooth engine, stick to Stewart, KATO and Atlas. Genesis can be very smooth but occasionally Athearns ugly QAQC problem shows up in Genesis but to a lessor degree.
Proto 2000 can be smooth, but experienced modelers know that they don't hold up under heavy use (mainly the 1990's models) like Joe Fugate. The newest P2K F7's are suppose to be much better than the old issue P2K, which often had cracked gears.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I love my P2K SW8. It is a fantastic runner. I have an Athearn GP9 from the 70's -- still runs great -- I run it all the time. Very smooth but a bit noisy (built in sound-decoder!) Avoid the Bachman diesels -- every one I have has needed drive train work, esp. the gears. Once they are worked on and tweaked they are good, but it will take some work. I have a 44 tonner and a baby trainmaster that run great now.
Chuck
Modeling the Motor City
I have a bunch of Athearns new and old and they see a lot of run time. But, with that being said my Proto 2000's and 1000's are the best I have. My Athearns need a lot more lubing and care than the PK's. Except the PK2's BL2's that where made in the 80's I have yet to repair any of my Protos!
My worst pulling Proto is a SD-7, it will only pull 20 or so cars up my 1.5% grade. MY F-3 PK 1000 are great pullers, one F-3 will drag 30 cars. I have 4 and ran out of room before I ran out of power. Proto E-6's, they are the best pullers I have. One E-6 will drag 45 cars up my grade.
Cost is a round $60.00 each. My F-3 1000's are Monon and came as powered A&B set at $90.00. E-6's 2000's came as a powered A & B dummie Santa Fe War Bonnet for $95.00.
Proto 1000's have less details than the 2000's.
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
jeffrey-wimberly wrote:Of the locos that I have the Proto 2000's do quite well. On the cheaper side the best runners I have are Athearn BB locos. I have an Athearn F7A that can crawl so slowly you have to put a marker down then look away for a few seconds then look back to see that it actually moved the width of a couple of hairs. About the only thing I don't like about the BB locos is that they're a tad noisy. But after a while that noise grows on you.
While my proto 2000 SD7s ran very nicely when new and on level ground I've come to have a love/hate affair with them. One of the three has developed a problem somewhere in the gear train which chatters or howls. Sigh. And *all* of them were early-on prohibited from service where they were going down grade with a long train behind them (> 1.5% with more than 10 cars) because the slop in the gear train made them 'pogo' (there are two fixes for this - a) disassemble the gear train and shim the worm gears, and b) use a back emf decoder to tame to pogos - but that much back emf makes them 'buck' when in a consist).
My best running locomotives are Kato RS-2 and RS2C units. The only flaw I've found in them is they don't have much lateral tracking in their trucks so track which rocks side to side on a curve will easily derail them (persnikity buggers they are). And no pogoing on a down grade with long trains behind them (and no shims or back-emf decoders).
Cheers,
Charlie Comstock
--edit--
I looked it up and its rivaossi. sorry bout that yall.
Is's a rivarossi AHM
mechanic wrote: I'm looking for everyones opinion on what the best running HO diesel locomotive might be.I'm not looking for a highly detailed locomotive (but i'm not anti-detail)I just want to know what loco out there that people have that runs the best.diesel only please and I'm running DC on my layout (ATM) if that makes a difference.ThanksEric
Think it would be my old BB Athreans that I have alot of. I run DC also haven't had the time to switch yet to DCC but my PA1 Proto 2000 has it hands down as the best runner.
4x8 are fun too!!! RussellRail
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
I have a mix of mainly EMD F units and I would rate the engines in the following order
Intermountain
Atlas/Proto
The power pack you use also makes a difference with the running aspects of the engines. I use an old MRC ControlMaster X. It has adjustments for voltage and momentum variances. A great old power pack.
I don't have much in the way of diesels, but of the three I've got, I'd say that my Genesis F-3 A/B set is certainly one of the most powerful, smooth and quiet locos I've seen. I'm also DC, BTW, and these babies can crawl from tie to tie with the best of them.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Eric,
For smoothest running, you just can't beat the Buehler and Cannon drives on the Stewart locomotives. However, they only carry early, 1st and 2nd generation diesels. For more modern versions, Kato, Atlas, and Proto 2000 would be a great choice.
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.