Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Proto 2000 SD45 Electronic needs

3557 views
14 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    September 2014
  • 51 posts
Posted by SETH CRAWFORD on Friday, August 11, 2017 3:16 PM

peahrens

While in there, suggest remove the trucks, clean the old lube off and lube the drive train.

And if the truck pickup wires are clipped on it's good to carefully solder the connections.  

Also verify the axle gears are not cracked.  Not so common a problem on P2K 6 axle diesels but possible.  The opposite wheels on an axle should not twist easily by hand. 

 

 

I was planning to eventually replace the wheel trucks anyway, but I do not have any experience doing that on a locomotive so I'll do that another time. However, I will lubricate it. The guy told me that it has practically never come out of the box. 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • 2,616 posts
Posted by peahrens on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 9:53 PM

While in there, suggest remove the trucks, clean the old lube off and lube the drive train.

And if the truck pickup wires are clipped on it's good to carefully solder the connections.  

Also verify the axle gears are not cracked.  Not so common a problem on P2K 6 axle diesels but possible.  The opposite wheels on an axle should not twist easily by hand. 

Paul

Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent

Moderator
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Northeast OH
  • 17,199 posts
Posted by tstage on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 9:20 PM

Seth,

Here's a handy LED diagram for wiring purposes:

Blue goes to the anode (+) and white (F0F) or yellow (F0R) goes to the cathode (-).

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
    September 2014
  • 51 posts
Posted by SETH CRAWFORD on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 8:16 PM

rrinker

 OK, that is the same as the GP7. The wires attached to that small board should be proper color code - red and black for the pickups, orange and grey to the motor. You can remove that, and the other longer board screwed down to the frame. 3mm LEDs will fit where those light bulbs were under the plastic. Use a 1K resistor on each light bulb. Connect like colors to the decoder's harness, blue to the _ side of each LED, white to the - side of the front LED and yellow to the - of the rear LED. Resistor goes on either side of each LED, makes no difference. ANd you are done. Use some small diameter heat shrink over each wire, slide it one, twist the wires, solder, then slide the shrink over the joint and shrink it.

                                             --Randy

 

 

blue goes to the long side of the bulb wire and white to the short? I just want to be sure of that before I do anything stupid Laugh

 

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 5:03 PM

 OK, that is the same as the GP7. The wires attached to that small board should be proper color code - red and black for the pickups, orange and grey to the motor. You can remove that, and the other longer board screwed down to the frame. 3mm LEDs will fit where those light bulbs were under the plastic. Use a 1K resistor on each light bulb. Connect like colors to the decoder's harness, blue to the _ side of each LED, white to the - side of the front LED and yellow to the - of the rear LED. Resistor goes on either side of each LED, makes no difference. ANd you are done. Use some small diameter heat shrink over each wire, slide it one, twist the wires, solder, then slide the shrink over the joint and shrink it.

                                             --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    September 2014
  • 51 posts
Posted by SETH CRAWFORD on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 1:42 PM

 

 

There we go, thank you

Moderator
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Northeast OH
  • 17,199 posts
Posted by tstage on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 10:44 AM

Along with Henry's post, here's the link to the thread "How to Post a Photo to the Forum", which is located at the top of pg. 1 of the General Information forum:

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/249194.aspx

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 9:30 AM

This was posted in the massive Photbucket thread:

To post to the MR forum from flickr, bring the image up by itself in flickr.  Locate the share icon (an upper curving arrow) to the lower right of the image.  Select bbc code.  Decide on the image size.  Copy the code (I use ctrl c).  Paste it right into the MR forum post directly (ctrl v).  You should see a bunch of code.  You wont see the image until you preview it.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    September 2014
  • 51 posts
Posted by SETH CRAWFORD on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 7:34 AM

Flickr, I am well aware of PhotoBucket's stupid premium sharing thing. 

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,014 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 7:29 AM

SETH CRAWFORD

 I don't understand why this darn thing won't add the photo, it's getting on my nerves

 

Which site our you using to host your photos?

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    September 2014
  • 51 posts
Posted by SETH CRAWFORD on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 7:26 AM

 I don't understand why this darn thing won't add the photo, it's getting on my nerves

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 7:08 AM

 I don;t do anything so modern as an SD45, but in other P2K locos, a 3mm LED usually fits where the existing light bulb is. Sometimes I have to file a little bit off the shoulder of the LED to get it to fit down in the slot in the frame. The black cap that was over the light bulb then clips in place to hold it and block light fromt he sides. If the SD45 frame is similar to the GP7, this same thing should work. I just hard wire mine in place, removing the bulky plug and socket and the little board with the plastic clips frees up a lot of space in the recess for just about any decoder - the TCS T series is what I've been using. My first gen locos have no special light effects so I just use the T1, which has just the front and rear headlights, which is all I need. But there are other ones with more functions if you need a rotary beacon or other extra lights.

                                      --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,014 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 6:10 AM

If you are looking for a 6-function non-sound decoder, the Digitrax DH165LO will fit in the SD45.

The proper LED will depend upon the size of the lamp housing. You could install an SMD LED which is extremely tiny and will fit easily in the housing.

I have no recommendation on custom decals but take a look at Microscale for a large selection of stock decals.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Tuesday, August 8, 2017 5:48 AM

Did you want sound?  DCC ready can mean multiple things from plug and play to not really ready at all.  Which brand and do you know it's stall current?

Litchfield Station, Tony's Trains and Streamlined Backshop are three places that come to mind.  You might need some kapton tape, the appropriate color/size wires, led's, maybe reisistors, depending on the decoder board, soldering apparatus and some heat shrink tubing.  Those stores will carry the appropriate sizes, Home Depot does not.  If you've never done this, I suggest getting a book or two from Kalmbach.

 

In Codys Office in this month's MRVP Cody mentioned three.

Solid Design ad in MR

Highball Graphics Decals  https://highballgraphics.com/

Circus City Decals & Graphics http://www.circusdecals.com/

I've used Rail Graphics   They are closing their doors at the end of the year.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

  • Member since
    September 2014
  • 51 posts
Proto 2000 SD45 Electronic needs
Posted by SETH CRAWFORD on Monday, August 7, 2017 8:55 PM

Okay so I recently purchased an older (but still DCC ready) HO Scale EMD SD45 and I need to know what I need. I know I need new LED lights but I don't know what to buy and I'm not sure what DCC decoder I should get aside from the usual Digitrax one I get because I'd like to have something that can fit the space.

 

Basically, I'd like to know what I should get and where can I find one. Also if you could point me to where I can have someone print custom decals that have white shapes and type in them that would be great. 

This seems to be the only way I can share what's under the hood to give you an idea of what I need. https://flic.kr/p/WfxJY1

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!