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Proto 2000 SD45 Electronic needs

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  • Member since
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Proto 2000 SD45 Electronic needs
Posted by SETH CRAWFORD on Monday, August 07, 2017 8:55 PM

Okay so I recently purchased an older (but still DCC ready) HO Scale EMD SD45 and I need to know what I need. I know I need new LED lights but I don't know what to buy and I'm not sure what DCC decoder I should get aside from the usual Digitrax one I get because I'd like to have something that can fit the space.

 

Basically, I'd like to know what I should get and where can I find one. Also if you could point me to where I can have someone print custom decals that have white shapes and type in them that would be great. 

This seems to be the only way I can share what's under the hood to give you an idea of what I need. https://flic.kr/p/WfxJY1

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Posted by BigDaddy on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:48 AM

Did you want sound?  DCC ready can mean multiple things from plug and play to not really ready at all.  Which brand and do you know it's stall current?

Litchfield Station, Tony's Trains and Streamlined Backshop are three places that come to mind.  You might need some kapton tape, the appropriate color/size wires, led's, maybe reisistors, depending on the decoder board, soldering apparatus and some heat shrink tubing.  Those stores will carry the appropriate sizes, Home Depot does not.  If you've never done this, I suggest getting a book or two from Kalmbach.

 

In Codys Office in this month's MRVP Cody mentioned three.

Solid Design ad in MR

Highball Graphics Decals  https://highballgraphics.com/

Circus City Decals & Graphics http://www.circusdecals.com/

I've used Rail Graphics   They are closing their doors at the end of the year.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

By the Chesapeake Bay

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Posted by richhotrain on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 6:10 AM

If you are looking for a 6-function non-sound decoder, the Digitrax DH165LO will fit in the SD45.

The proper LED will depend upon the size of the lamp housing. You could install an SMD LED which is extremely tiny and will fit easily in the housing.

I have no recommendation on custom decals but take a look at Microscale for a large selection of stock decals.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 7:08 AM

 I don;t do anything so modern as an SD45, but in other P2K locos, a 3mm LED usually fits where the existing light bulb is. Sometimes I have to file a little bit off the shoulder of the LED to get it to fit down in the slot in the frame. The black cap that was over the light bulb then clips in place to hold it and block light fromt he sides. If the SD45 frame is similar to the GP7, this same thing should work. I just hard wire mine in place, removing the bulky plug and socket and the little board with the plastic clips frees up a lot of space in the recess for just about any decoder - the TCS T series is what I've been using. My first gen locos have no special light effects so I just use the T1, which has just the front and rear headlights, which is all I need. But there are other ones with more functions if you need a rotary beacon or other extra lights.

                                      --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by SETH CRAWFORD on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 7:26 AM

 I don't understand why this darn thing won't add the photo, it's getting on my nerves

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Posted by richhotrain on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 7:29 AM

SETH CRAWFORD

 I don't understand why this darn thing won't add the photo, it's getting on my nerves

 

Which site our you using to host your photos?

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by SETH CRAWFORD on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 7:34 AM

Flickr, I am well aware of PhotoBucket's stupid premium sharing thing. 

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Posted by BigDaddy on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 9:30 AM

This was posted in the massive Photbucket thread:

To post to the MR forum from flickr, bring the image up by itself in flickr.  Locate the share icon (an upper curving arrow) to the lower right of the image.  Select bbc code.  Decide on the image size.  Copy the code (I use ctrl c).  Paste it right into the MR forum post directly (ctrl v).  You should see a bunch of code.  You wont see the image until you preview it.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

By the Chesapeake Bay

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Posted by tstage on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 10:44 AM

Along with Henry's post, here's the link to the thread "How to Post a Photo to the Forum", which is located at the top of pg. 1 of the General Information forum:

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/249194.aspx

Tom

http://www.newyorkcentralmodeling.com

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by SETH CRAWFORD on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 1:42 PM

 

 

There we go, thank you

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Posted by rrinker on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:03 PM

 OK, that is the same as the GP7. The wires attached to that small board should be proper color code - red and black for the pickups, orange and grey to the motor. You can remove that, and the other longer board screwed down to the frame. 3mm LEDs will fit where those light bulbs were under the plastic. Use a 1K resistor on each light bulb. Connect like colors to the decoder's harness, blue to the _ side of each LED, white to the - side of the front LED and yellow to the - of the rear LED. Resistor goes on either side of each LED, makes no difference. ANd you are done. Use some small diameter heat shrink over each wire, slide it one, twist the wires, solder, then slide the shrink over the joint and shrink it.

                                             --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    September, 2014
  • 41 posts
Posted by SETH CRAWFORD on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 8:16 PM

rrinker

 OK, that is the same as the GP7. The wires attached to that small board should be proper color code - red and black for the pickups, orange and grey to the motor. You can remove that, and the other longer board screwed down to the frame. 3mm LEDs will fit where those light bulbs were under the plastic. Use a 1K resistor on each light bulb. Connect like colors to the decoder's harness, blue to the _ side of each LED, white to the - side of the front LED and yellow to the - of the rear LED. Resistor goes on either side of each LED, makes no difference. ANd you are done. Use some small diameter heat shrink over each wire, slide it one, twist the wires, solder, then slide the shrink over the joint and shrink it.

                                             --Randy

 

 

blue goes to the long side of the bulb wire and white to the short? I just want to be sure of that before I do anything stupid Laugh

 

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Posted by tstage on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 9:20 PM

Seth,

Here's a handy LED diagram for wiring purposes:

Blue goes to the anode (+) and white (F0F) or yellow (F0R) goes to the cathode (-).

Tom

http://www.newyorkcentralmodeling.com

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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    January, 2010
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Posted by peahrens on Tuesday, August 08, 2017 9:53 PM

While in there, suggest remove the trucks, clean the old lube off and lube the drive train.

And if the truck pickup wires are clipped on it's good to carefully solder the connections.  

Also verify the axle gears are not cracked.  Not so common a problem on P2K 6 axle diesels but possible.  The opposite wheels on an axle should not twist easily by hand. 

Paul

Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent

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Posted by SETH CRAWFORD on Friday, August 11, 2017 3:16 PM

peahrens

While in there, suggest remove the trucks, clean the old lube off and lube the drive train.

And if the truck pickup wires are clipped on it's good to carefully solder the connections.  

Also verify the axle gears are not cracked.  Not so common a problem on P2K 6 axle diesels but possible.  The opposite wheels on an axle should not twist easily by hand. 

 

 

I was planning to eventually replace the wheel trucks anyway, but I do not have any experience doing that on a locomotive so I'll do that another time. However, I will lubricate it. The guy told me that it has practically never come out of the box. 

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