woodman, you can use the Bachmann power pack "as is" to power the Atlas lamps. Just turn the rotary dial to the maximum speed setting and connect the lights (or bus) to the two DC terminals. The in-line resistors will protect the LEDs from excess voltage.
Then, use the MEHANO power pack to power the Walthers lights. Connect the Walthers lights to the two DC terminals. But, don't turn the rotary speed dial all the way up because that will send 17 volts through the 12 volt bulbs. Just turn the speed dial up by 1/4 or 1/2 of the maxium speed. Or, better yet, use a voltmeter to find the 12 volt output setting on the speed dial.
Don't wire the Walthers bulbs to the AC terminals because you won't be able to reduce that 16 volt output. You could use resistors or diodes to reduce the AC voltage, but it is just easier to use the DC terminals without having to add resistors or diodes.
Rich
Alton Junction
Rich,Yes, that is exactly the one I have.
Here is the info on two of the power packs that I have, the first is;
Bachmann Hobby Transformer Model # 6607 Made in China
Input 120 V 50/60 Mz
Output 17 VDC 20 VAC
Max. Output 7 VA Total
The other power pack is:
MEHANO Model # 352 Made in Slovenia ( Imported by IHC, Formerly AHM )
Input 120 V AC50/60 Hz
Output Open Circuit
DC 0-17 V AC 16 V
Power Total 5.5 VA
Can I use either one of these to power the lights or should I buy another power source.
Rich,
Your right, he does need to mark / tape / lock the throttle at or below the desired voltage lid. Also, be aware that most DC packs will not put out 17 volts to the rail, unless it is a open circuit. As you know, non-dcc equipped engines typically had 14 volt incandescent lamps, until LEDs came into vogue. So if a pack did put out 17 volts at WOT, the higher voltage would smoke the bulbs.
What I see on my MRC T2s is 13-14 volts @ WOT, on the rail loaded with a single locomotive. Even so, unless the OP throttled down his pack, this would be too much.
Jim
the voltage rating on fixed supply like a wall wart is at the max current rating.
the voltage could be higher at lower current
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
rrinker It's not complicated,
It's not complicated,
(Just pulling your chain, Randy).
Soo Line fan We allready have the necessary information to make a determination, the model of the pack is not important. As long as it is a variable DC is all that matters. So a DC source of 12 V will operate both lamps. Any DC power pack with a variable DC output can supply this voltage.
We allready have the necessary information to make a determination, the model of the pack is not important. As long as it is a variable DC is all that matters.
So a DC source of 12 V will operate both lamps.
Any DC power pack with a variable DC output can supply this voltage.
First, what are the requirements?
woodmanThe package for the Atlas lights states: they operate on 16V DC or AC, LED is the light source ,they are 3 Volt LED with resister and diode for connection to 16 Volt AC/DC
So we know the Atlas lights will operate on 16v MAX. However, as they are LED with resistors, we know they will shine just as bright on 12V DC
woodmanThe Walters light package states that they can be connected to a AC or DC power souce with a maximum output of 12 Volts.
The Walters lights require 12V MAX. So we know they will also work well on 12 DC.
Any DC power pack with a variable DC output can supply this voltage. The throttle is adjusted to the desired voltage value, which has been determined. Or as the OP said:
woodman I was told by a neighbor that all I have to do is throttle the power pack down
It's not complicated, it's just that you have two different types of lights with two different voltage requirements. The EASIEST thing to do is to obtain 2 power supplies, each one meeting the specifications of the lights you intend to hook up, and keep it all compeltely seperate. That may not be the CHEAPEST option, or the best use (reuse) or existing resources, but it's simple and you know each set of lights will be getting the proper voltages.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
woodman I did not realize how complicated just hooking up some street lights to my layout was going to be, I am now thinking of returning all the lights and just forgetting the idea of having lights. I appreciate all the replies to my posts, but with each reply it has become more and more confusing for me. I just think I am way over my head in trying to accomplish this task. Once again thank you all for your advice, you kept me from making an expensive mistake.
I did not realize how complicated just hooking up some street lights to my layout was going to be, I am now thinking of returning all the lights and just forgetting the idea of having lights. I appreciate all the replies to my posts, but with each reply it has become more and more confusing for me. I just think I am way over my head in trying to accomplish this task. Once again thank you all for your advice, you kept me from making an expensive mistake.
My old Bachmann power pack looks like this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/201157695156?lpid=82
Is yours similar to it?
What is the model number on your power pack?
woodman I was told by a neighbor that all I have to do is throttle the power pack down and I can use it for the Walthers lights.
Your neighbor is exactly right. Just connect the lights to the track screws and throttle down as you say.
The switches are optional..............
The power pack does not look anything like that, I have three Bachmann power packs from train sets that were at least 25 years old. The power packs are brand new in the box, I have not looked at the specs on the power packs, I only tested them on running trains and they work perfectly. I was told by a neighbor that all I have to do is throttle the power pack down and I can use it for the Walthers lights. I did not realize how complicated just hooking up some street lights to my layout was going to be, I am now thinking of returning all the lights and just forgetting the idea of having lights. I appreciate all the replies to my posts, but with each reply it has become more and more confusing for me. I just think I am way over my head in trying to accomplish this task. Once again thank you all for your advice, you kept me from making an expensive mistake.
Jim, I agree. It would help to know which model the OP has among the various power packs.
I have an older Bachmann train set power pack that I use for testing purposes. It is Model No. 6607, and has four terminals. Two of the terminals are 17 VDC for DC track, and the other two terminals are 20 VAC for AC accessories.
But the newer Bachmann train sets include the Model No. 44212, and that power pack apparently has different voltage output arrangements.
Does it look like this starter system? The op needs to tell us if he has both pieces or what he does have.
I think that it depends upon the type of power pack that he has from that train set. The typical Bachmann train set has a 16 wall wart that can be connected to a speed controller (e.g., 44212). I don't know if it has those two sets of terminals. The wiring setup may need to be cannibalized somewhat.
He could set the throttle on the DC pack to 12v and hook up the lights to the variable DC output instead of the fixed 16v accessory terminals.
woodman, the Atlas street lights will work just fine off of that Bachmann power pack. So, if you want to use a fascia-mounted set of bus wires connected to the power pack for the Atlas lights, you can just tap in along the bus wires. The LEDs are fully protected in those pre-wired Atlas light kits.
The Walthers street lights pose a bit of a problem since they are only rated at 12 volts. To prevent premature burnout, you are going to need to reduce the output voltage if you connect them to a 16 volt power pack. You can use resistors or diodes or something like a step down voltage regulator which you can buy cheap. Or, with only three Walthers street lights, you could tap into your DCC bus. Depending upon your DCC system, the voltage may not be much higher than that required for those 12 volt incandescents, so it wouldn't take much to reduce the voltage to 12 volts to power those three lamps.
Let me add to my orginal post. I intend to run separate bus wires independent of my bus wires for my track feeders. These bus wires will be for lighting only. I will be installing Atlas and Walthers street lights. (15) Atlas street lights and (3) Walthers street lights. The package for the Atlas lights states: they operate on 16V DC or AC, LED is the light source ,they are 3 Volt LED with resister and diode for connection to 16 Volt AC/DC, red is positive, blue is negative. The Walters light package states that they can be connected to a AC or DC power souce with a maximum output of 12 Volts. Walthers lights are not LED. That is all the information on the packages. Can they all be connected to the same power source, or does the Walthers need to be on a separate power source? Thank You for all your ideas and comments.
richhotrain zstripe Randy, He doesn't want to use His DCC track bus for His lights. He wants to run a DC voltage bus from his trainset transformer on His facia, just to power the lights. Says who? Maybe he will want to use his DCC bus. That's why I asked in the first place if he is running in DC or DCC. He acknowledged that he has limited electrical expertise so maybe he hasn't even thought about it. Let's wait and see what he has to say. As I mentioned previously, with DCC power, he does have options. Rich
zstripe Randy, He doesn't want to use His DCC track bus for His lights. He wants to run a DC voltage bus from his trainset transformer on His facia, just to power the lights.
Randy,
He doesn't want to use His DCC track bus for His lights. He wants to run a DC voltage bus from his trainset transformer on His facia, just to power the lights.
Says who?
Maybe he will want to use his DCC bus.
That's why I asked in the first place if he is running in DC or DCC.
He acknowledged that he has limited electrical expertise so maybe he hasn't even thought about it.
Let's wait and see what he has to say.
As I mentioned previously, with DCC power, he does have options.
I just thought I could put this argument to rest.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Phoebe Vet "I just purchased 15 Atlas HO scale street lights, these are LED lights, can I wire these to bus wires and then run those bus wires to a DC power pack ( from a Bachmann train set ) to supply the power." Cut and pasted from the original post.
"I just purchased 15 Atlas HO scale street lights, these are LED lights, can I wire these to bus wires and then run those bus wires to a DC power pack ( from a Bachmann train set ) to supply the power."
Cut and pasted from the original post.
I think that everyone who replied said that he can do that.
Now we are trying to figure the ma. for the Walthers lamps and discussing the DCC option.
He said he doesn't know much about electrical things, so he's probably not the one to ask about the bulbs in the Walthers lights, unless it's clearly printed on the package. I was hoping someone would know so we can just tell him exactly what to buy so it works.
He doesn't want to use His DCC track bus for His lights. He wants to run a DC voltage bus from his trainset transformer on His facia, just to power the lights. The ones He wants to use are either 30ma or 50ma. 16v and 12v. The 16v are LED's with resistor and diode built in so they can work on 16AC the 12v's are incandesants. He didn't come back to say what the MA requirement is on either.
Take Care!
Frank
Anyone know what ma bulbs Walthers uses so the correct resistor can be calculated?
If he connect the lights to the DCC track bus, he's not going to need to drop much - with a Zephyr Xtra the track voltage is going to be around 13V. The Atlas lights will work fine.
richhotrain If they are 12 volt lamps and you power them to a 16 volt DC power pack, to prolong bulb life you could add a separate wire from the power pack and add one or more diodes in series to reduce the voltage on that string to 12 volts. Rich
You don't have to run a separate wire from the power source. Just tap into the existing DC bus 16volt wires that you have running along your facia to the other lights and use resistors not diodes to reduce voltage to the 12volt lights.
Are they being wired in series or parallel?
woodman, Frank's diversions aside, since you are running your layout in DCC, you have some options available to you. You could operate the lighting off of a 16 volt DC power pack as you are asking about. You could also tap into your DCC power source by wiring the lights to the DCC bus with the proper precautions. Many DCC users recommend against drawing upon DCC power, but with so few lights, you could do it depending upon the DCC system that you are using.
Regarding the Atlas HO street lights, I see that they are already pre-wired including the resistors, so there isn't much left to do to complete the wiring to the power source. But, again, if you rely on DCC power,there are some precautions to keep in mind.
Regarding the Walthers double arm street lights, like all Walthers street lights, they too are pre-wired and pretty much ready to go. If they are 12 volt lamps and you power them to a 16 volt DC power pack, to prolong bulb life you could add a separate wire from the power pack and add one or more diodes in series to reduce the voltage on that string to 12 volts.
All you have to do...is read His first sentence.