I no longer trust manufacturers to get it right when they have a socket that all you have to do is plug in a decoder.
I specifically recall an N scale Bachmann that had a separate light board that wasn't isolated from the frame. I have had a couple of other bad experiences with other manufacturers as well.
So on all conversions now, I remove any “light boards” or “decoder plug-in boards” and either hard wire the decoder in, or find a direct replacement decoder that replaces the “light board”. The other option is to purchase new locos that have DCC installed, and I have also done that with some sound locos.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
rrinker To just plug in a decoder on this loco, there are multiple traces on the pc board that need to be cut COMPLETELY through - a trianguler needle file works bettr to make sure the connection is severed, but copper traces can be cut with a standard #2 knife. Miss one, or have it not completely cut (test with a meter in continuity mode) and it will almost certainly fry the decoder. --Randy
To just plug in a decoder on this loco, there are multiple traces on the pc board that need to be cut COMPLETELY through - a trianguler needle file works bettr to make sure the connection is severed, but copper traces can be cut with a standard #2 knife. Miss one, or have it not completely cut (test with a meter in continuity mode) and it will almost certainly fry the decoder.
--Randy
Uh? OK. I took a close look at this board and there are no x's suggesting places to cut the printed circuit. There was also no instruction to do anything other than plug in the decoder. I know this P2K is at least 6 or more years old so maybe a different board? Any ideas?
Mike
Randy, my circuit board has no areas that need to be cut, well there is nothing marked on it that is.
Mike, I ran mine for years by just plugin in the decoder. First decoder problem (some time ago) was do to a defective motor. Now this last problem that spawn this question is still a mystery, but I am replacing the board to be on the safe side.
Besides, it is not that hard.
Ken
I hate Rust
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
OK, don't mean to jump into the middle of this discussion with an obvious question, but I read the previous thread and this one and I'm confused. I was just about to install a DH163PH into a P2K SD7. I've had the loco for at least 6 or 7 years Looks to be a simple plug n' play deal since the decoder comes with a 9 to 8 pin harness and the SD7 is "DCC" ready" with NMRA plug receptical on the board.
Should I proceed? I've never had trouble with these plug-in decoders either on Proto locomotives of a couple of other brands I've used them on.
Re: one of the original questions......Putting an LED in backwards will not hurt a decoder or the LED at all. No current will flow, (the diode is simply reverse biased). The LED just will not turn on, that is all.
Richard
If I can't fix it, I can fix it so it can't be fixed
Thanks for the answers folks.
I did one P2K SD7, the circuit board has several palces marked with X's to cut when instralling a decoder. I spent an hour or so goign over the circuit traces and drawing it out, and then cutting hwere the X's were, and it made no real sense why it was wired as it was. So I solved the problem and removed the circuit board completely. There are wires from each truck pickup, and wires fromthe motor, it was already isolated, so I just connected a wired decoder, connecting the appropriate wires to the decoder elads, and added LEDs with 1K resistors to the front and rear headlight wires. Simple and it worked.
Guess it's pretty obvious by now - I HATE "DCC Ready" since more often than not, it's not. Hard wire, almost always. Haven't smoked a single decoder ever. I don;t use decoders with wires soldered to them, I use ones with 9 pin connectors and a wiring harness, so the decoder can be swapped, or even replaced with a 9 pin dummy plug to make the loco DC again.
Stix's, guess you did not look at the link. Decoder Pro read the decoder with no problem.
I don't think the P2K engines have any trouble as far as the motor not being isolated?? Only engines I've had to do that to were a few old Mantua steam engines, Athearn bluebox diesels, and the old (Roco) Walthers FM switcher. Anything made in the last 10-15 years is probably OK.
Main thing with decoder install is to put the engine on the programming track first!! Try to read back a CV. If it shows up OK, there are no shorts. If it doesn't show up, there may be a problem - but the power on the programming track is low enough that a short circuit won't fry the decoder.
Going to give the PK 2 SD 7 another shoot.
See this post for more details. http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/208090.aspx
This time I am going to hard wire the decoder and looking for idea's of what to check before I but it on the mainline.
Here's what I have came up with.
1 Double check and add tape to frame to make sure the motor is not grounded. It is a DCC ready engine and ran for years before the old motor died.
2 Check to make sure wheels sets are in gauge. That way the axle's ends don't touch and cause a short.
3 Shrink wrap all solder joints.
In other idea's?
If you looked at the above link, replacement motor is in good shape as far as Amps it is pulling.
Hum, If I wired the LED wrong, could it have burned on the decoder motor drive?
Thank You for the coming ideas!