Hello Again all,
Here is a question for you all, and I'm sorry I can't give you more detail than what I have. I bought this old Bachmann Spectrum off of Ebay, and it runs fine in DC. Let's assume, for the moment, that it is the oldest model of "Spectrum" that Bachmann made. It is a H16-44 BASF black and silver striped deisle HO scale. I don't know much else about it. I wanted to know if the old Bachmann Spectrums can be wired up for DCC, or if it will draw too much current and blow any DCC unit I try to install in it?
I am not positive, but I believe that you have an early 2000s era model, so about 10 years old. Get the shell off and take a look. It may well be one of their split frame era models. These are characterized by being very heavy, but don't have a lot of room to fit a decoder. Having said that, they are not all that hard to convert to DCC. If it is a split fame, I have done several of them (not this particular model) and can post a link that will help.
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
Take the shell off and post a photo of the inside of the loco and tender. Get your multimeter out and verify the wiring as Bachmann does not use standard wire colors.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
There's very little wire involved -- the motor is inside a split frame with brass wipers that press against the frame halves for motor electrical pickup. The headlight is connected to the two frame halves with very short wires that are part of the bulb. There's very little room for a decoder except something like a TCS M-1. The entire frame must be disassembled to get to the motor brushes and insulate them from the frame.
Kevin
Here is a project I'm working on. On the split frame loco on the right I have isolated the motor from the frame and brought the wires up between the frame halves. I had to grind a trough in the metal for complete freedom for the wires. I tapped an threaded for two wires in the rear of the frame to take decoder power from the track to the decoder. Of course you know the drivers feed power into the frame to power everything in DC mode. This is a sound decoder I have on it but if I use sound I'll have to tow the speaker in a trailing car. I took out the light board so the decoder fits in the same space. Light bulbs will be wired and installed separately. If no one finds fault with my system it should be easy to finish the decoder install. The somewhat newer loco on the left started life as a dummy. I put power trucks on it along with a motor which I isolated from the frame. This loco has plenty room for a speaker. If you haven't already taken your loco apart this will give you some idea what kind of issues the split frame causes.
good luck
Lee
Kevin.
This is not the H16-44 but built the same way with the split frame. You may have to hack saw or grind some frame away for a decoder to fit. This is not un common for a split frame decoder install.
http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/Spectrum_Dash_8-40CW/Spectrum%20Dash%208-40CW.html
Pete
P. S. An ohm meter will be your best friend on this install. Use it and make sure there are no shorts to frame and motor.
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
If it is a split frame here is a link to everything you need to know
Since I did this install for TCS, I have slightly modified my procedure and now clip off the circular truck to frame contacts seen in fig 5. There is no need to have the frame hot with these models. Also, by eliminating the truck to frame connection you are not relying on a friction connection for reliable DCC signals.
Ha! two of us posting identical information at the same time!!
Okay...here are some pictrures of the guts of this thing. It DOES appear to be the split frame that you are all describing, and, as you can see...it looks like someone left it in a mud puddle for a day or two. There is rust...and lots of gritty dirt or filings of some kind around the motor. It does run well though...very quiet. So, looking at these photos, is this a motor that may draw too much power for a DCC decoder? Now...looking at things, it looks like it might be difficult to isolate the motor. I mean, it is surrounded by the frame. Do you have to cut the brass pickups off?
Did you bother to follow the link provided by two of us above? It shows you exactly what to do. You can remove the copper strips, or leave them in place. As is illustrated in my installation on the TCS site you will need to insulate the motor contacts once you have soldered on your motor wires.
This will be a fine candidate to DCC conversion. I would recommend soldering the pickup wires to the trucks as described and also cut off the truck to frame contacts, also described above.
While you have the chassis apart give it a good cleaning.
Dang Simon, you're famous - a TCS install AND a Digitrax ad.
And by 'good cleaning' - emove all that gooped up grease on the gears and replace with a drop or two of Labelle gear lube. Notice how it is gooped up all around the worm but the axle gears look dry. Just cleaning up that mess should make it run MUCH better.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I didn't follow the link yet. I was too preoccupied with posting pictures. I will follow the link though, and appreciate the help. I was planning on wiring the DCC unit to the trucks and then I was going to isolate the frame from the trucks. It looks like the only thing making contact with the frame are the pickup metal strips on either side of the trucks. So...a few strips of electric tape and the frame should be dead (electrically speaking), thus reducing any risk of accidental contact with the motor. That's my plan anyway.
This might help, pretty much what has been said but more...
http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/103165.aspx
Steve, the points made in that old thread are valid as ever. In particular the one about price. My two boys discovered that these old split frame models sell at the train shows for next to nothing. The last one cost them $10, most in the $25 range. Because of their weight they will out pull almost anything and once the electrical pick up issues are eliminated they run really well. I have to say that I much prefer them to the Athearn Blue Box of the same era. I think folks are just scared to update them to DCC when it really is not a very had job at all.
rrinker Dang Simon, you're famous - a TCS install AND a Digitrax ad. --Randy
Famous in my own mind perhaps!! The TCS site is great though. Find an obscure model, do a half decent install and get a free decoder. Not a bad deal. That site has turned into my go-to reference for DCC installs.
What? Free decoder? I'm getting pretty good at installing DCC. How do I get in on that deal?
http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Customer_Info/customerpics.html
Link to the submission guidelines.
Thanks for the directions. I followed them and made some additions of my own and got this up and running today. Runs great. Thanks for your help.