I'm excited. I don't think it will get here by this weekend, which is OK. I bought the NCE PowerCab simply because it's the best option for my portable N scale layout (it's the most compact DCC system on the market). I only need to run 2-3 N scale locos at the same time, and this DCC system is perfect for it.
I also bought MRC's drop-in decoder for the Kato N scale SD-40-2. I hope that WILL come by this weekend.
The Powercab is a nice setup. I bought one to use at the bench to test with. For My dream layout I have the Easy DCC settup with the wireless throttle, for Me this is the most comfortable throttle I've ever had in My hand. You won't look back ,onceYou get the hang of the Powercab, enjoy !
Thanks! I'm excited. I'm a little overwhelmed now reading and programming about CVs and all that.
I have two questions. What do I used to power the lights on my layout? And finally, I have an inside and outside loop on my N scale layout that are electrically isolated from one another. Can I hook up both loops to the two screws on the terminal of the NCE system (i.e. all four wires)?
I don't see any reason why not just as long as the total amperage doesn't overload the system.
I have the NCE 10 amp system for O scale and I like it a lot except for the fact that to go wireless is pretty expensive. Good luck with your system.
gatrhumpy I have two questions. What do I used to power the lights on my layout? And finally, I have an inside and outside loop on my N scale layout that are electrically isolated from one another. Can I hook up both loops to the two screws on the terminal of the NCE system (i.e. all four wires)?
I would not be inclined to connect all four wires to the two place connector that plugs into the back of what they call the power panel. What I would do is install a small terminal strip to which I would connect the wires that go to the loops. I'd then connect the two wires from the two place connector to the other side of the terminal strip. Since this is a portable layout, I'd also be inclined to install ring terminals to the ends of the wires so that I could assure myself of reasonable secure connections. Much better, I think, than just looping the wires around the terminal screws. Also, if you install the intermediate terminal strip, I think it makes it easier to track down any electrical power or continuity issues.
Concerning the lights, I think I'd be inclined to find another power source for those. You don't say what the lights are, but the output voltage of the PowerCab is around 14 volts AC, give or take. So if you have lower voltage bulbs or LEDs you either have to come up with voltage dropping components or start out with a lower voltage power supply ini the first place.
You bought a nice DCC system, it should be trouble free for years. I hope you will not have too much problems with the MRC decoder, they don't have a good reputation as far as reliability is concerned.
Jack W.
So wait, there are only two connections on the back of the NCE Power Panel. Do I wire the lights to this connection also (where track power is)? Does that mean that the lights will see 2 amps of current? If I connect the lights to the same terminals as the track power, does that mean I can put a switch inline with the lights and I can turn the lights on and off this way?
I may just get a very small power pack from a train set, connect it to the fascia on my portable layout, and power the lights that way (along with varying the voltage the lights see).
gatrhumpy So wait, there are only two connections on the back of the NCE Power Panel. Do I wire the lights to this connection also (where track power is)? Does that mean that the lights will see 2 amps of current? If I connect the lights to the same terminals as the track power, does that mean I can put a switch inline with the lights and I can turn the lights on and off this way? I may just get a very small power pack from a train set, connect it to the fascia on my portable layout, and power the lights that way (along with varying the voltage the lights see).
Yes power the lights with a different source of power. The Power Cab should only power the tracks.
Hmmmmmmmmm. I did not know this. They have a six month warranty, so if it goes belly up I will return it. Heck, if this goes belly up at all, I may just say the heck with DCC and return the DCC system too (or sell it).
Well if you want, you can use the buss wires to power up your lights. It is just that lights require power, so the 2 amp system will be powering up your locos and the lights. Get too many lights and you will take away the power to the locos. It better to have a separate power supply for lights. I have had my Power Cab for over 5 years now and never had any problems with it. Great system and very easy to understand and use.
Well if you want, you can use the buss wires to power up your lights. It is just that lights require power, so the 2 amp system will be powering up your locos and the lights. Get too many lights and you will take away the power to the locos.
It better to have a separate power supply for lights.
I have had my Power Cab for over 5 years now and never had any problems with it.
Great system and very easy to understand and use.
You can look at a copy of the PowerCab manual here: http://www.ncedcc.com/images/stories/manuals/power_cab_manual_v1.28.pdf You only have to scroll down a page to see how the PowerCab gets connected to a layout.
If by "connections" you mean some sort of AC and DC terminals like you'd find on a DC power pack, then the answer is "no". There are two sockets on the back of the facia panel. One of them is to allow expansion of the system to include additional facia panels. The other socket is where the power to the track gets connected. They supply a connector with two small screws that secure the track wires to the connector, and then the connector plugs into the socket. I think this is a typical interface method no matter which DCC system you purchase.
I don't believe any DCC system has terminals that would allow direct connection to accessories such as lighting. And I don't think anyone on this forum would recommend that you connect your lighting circuits to the track power which, as I mentioned previously, is about 14 volts.
Ok, many Dudes have trouble with this but follow the manual. I have the Power Cab for over two years.
Take your time. There is no hurry.
Make sure to send in the Warranty card. Don't tell me you already threw out the card?
NCE just repaired my Power Cab for free as the back light for the display stopped working and my system was registered because I sent the card in. Sometime ago I got a free upgrade chip for the controller because the system was registered.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
From the original post I don't think he's even got the system yet.
gatrhumpy,
As I mentioned in the other thread, I personally would go with a dedicated power pack to power your lighting. As you stated, you can dial down the voltage to your lights with the power pack and thereby extend the life of your lights immeasurably. They'll also look more realistic NOT running at full intensity.
Realistically, there should only be two wires coming off the back of the PCP panel, where your Power Cab will be plugged into. If you're insistent on powering your lighting with the Power Cab: Run the wires from the wall transformer to one side of an Atlas slide switch and connect the other side to the back of the PCP panel. That way power will remain uninterrupted going to your PCP panel. Your lights can then be turned off and on with a slide switch.
Then you have the decision of whether you want to wire your lighting "in series" or "in parallel". This is where the dedicated power pack would make things much easier for you. Albeit 2 or 22 bulbs, you can adjust the voltage so that the lights luminate to the intensity that you want.
Do keep in mind that (22) 14 volt - 20 amp bulbs would require 0.44A to power. Now you have 25% less amps to power locomotives with. That's why a dedicated power source for operating lights is a better option - at least in my IMO.
gatrhumpy, congratulations on your new acquisition. I think you'll really enjoy the Power Cab and DCC. I've been using DCC for 6 years now and have not regretted making the transition.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Thanks for the detailed post Tom. I appreciate it.
I have already had push-spring-type of speaker connections available for the lights and power to my inside and outside tracks (i.e. double track mainline, which is loosely based on the Soo Line's Red Wing Division in the December 1994 issue of MR). I liked the NCE DCC system because of the very small fasic-type of Power Panel. Everything is plugged directly into the layout. No more bulky power pack.
I will get a dedicated power pack for the lights. I have probably close to 22 lights, most using the 12-14 volts. I also have a welding LED module, crossing gate lights, and ITT sound module. The question now becomes what is the best and smallest power pack for those items? I already have rocker switches installed in the fascia of the portable layout for the lights and the sound module. I want to attach the power pack directly to the fascia of the layout. I could care less if it has a power switch or anything like that. Perhaps Radioshack has something that will power all the lights, something around 1 amp capacity?
As for the power pack, would something like this work? It's switchable from 3-12 volts and has a 1 amp capacity.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3875403&numProdsPerPage=60
That should work. The nice thing about it is that you can 1) adjust the output voltage from 3V to 12V with the built-in slide switch, and 2) "curious fingers" (aka kids/grandkids/or nosy adults) are more likely to turn the knob on a power pack than fiddle with a wall transformer
I've been using an MRC 1370 Railpower power pack for my lighting, which I picked up off eBay for $20 a few years back. Plenty of power (18VA) and it comes with an built-in automatic circuit protector. I think the voltage output for these "regulated" and is pretty rock solid.
Tom - thanks. I'm thinking that I could set the voltage to 9V and call it a day.
Maybe I'll pick one up tonight!
As for the MRC drop-in sound decoder, anything that I can do to improve the reliability? I'm a reliability engineer, so maybe I can replace components? Also, is there anything that can improve the sound from the speaker? Not that I'm complaining about the sound seeing that I've never had sound before.
As the others noted, keep the lights off of the rail power. It draws available power from the trains and just plain asks for trouble.
As far as an inner and outer loop, why not put a cross over between them so you can switch between them? With DCC the loco's can be connected to the same power and run independently.
Springfield PA
For $20, it's worth a try on the RS wall transformer. 1A can power quite a few bulbs. As far as MRC decoders though; they are what they are. A change in speakers won't make any difference.
When MRC first came out with them, they weren't very good. A friend of mine had one in a Stewart F3 A-B. The prime mover sound was distorted so badly that it sounded like a UFO taking off...under water. Hopefully MRC's newer offerings are better.
For future sound decoder purposes, gatrhumpy, Tsunami, Loksound, or QSI would be a better choice. I have one of newer QSI decoders (Q2?) in my Atlas Alco HH600 switcher. Boy, does that puppy crawl! The sound is very good, too.
It does have two crossovers, but they are electrical isolated by plastic rail joiners.
Hmmm, I guess I chose that particular DCC decoder because it was plug and play. Was it worth it to not have to add a speaker to it or find a place for it? I guess I'll let everyone know next week.
I wouldn't fret about it, gatrhumpy. Even with a plug 'n play decoder, you're still learning something about installing a decoder.
FWIW, I do remember reading about a few here on the forum who said that they were happy with the sound from their MRC sound decoder. Maybe this one will be decent for you. Do keep us posted...
Wasn´t it next week the software update was due for the PowerCab?
How does it work? Is it a new Eprom that should be replaced or is it a pure software update?
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That's a new one on me, Graffen. Do you know right off hand which version of the software? I currently have V1.28C in my Power Cab. When plugged into my upgraded Smart Booster (SB3a), it shows V1.28D2.
tstage That's a new one on me, Graffen. Do you know right off hand which version of the software? I currently have V1.28C in my Power Cab. When plugged into my upgraded Smart Booster (SB3a), it shows V1.28D2. Tom
I have been following this thread:
RMWEB
As I´m interested in buying a PowerCab, I thought it was better to wait until after the Upgrade?!?!
Does anyone know anything else about the Upgrade?
Nope.
Graffen,
Here's what I have surmised so far from the link that you've given:
Power Cab upgrade
Power Pro upgrade
For those nervous about doing the upgrade yourself, switching out the EEPROM is quite simple. All you need is a Phillips-head screwdriver. What you want to do first is to:
The only other thing you need to make sure of is that the EEPROM is in the correct orientation. One of the corners will probably have a 45 degree bevel. Note where this is on the old EEPROM before you remove it and be sure you insert the new one the exact same way.
From the above, my Smart Booster (SB3a) already has the latter two features of the Power Cab upgrade. The recall stack isn't a biggie for me, personally. Since I only have a modest 4 x 8 layout, 6 slots is just way too many pushes of the RECALL button to cycle through every time I want to find a locomotive address. So, I only changed my stack memory from 2 to 3. And it's a fairly easy change to make via the Power Cab's onscreen menu. The additional cab addresses, however, is a real plus.
Given my current set up of the Power Cab and SB3a, I'll probably wait on the upgrade. (Or, at least till the inrush for the upgrade EEPROMs has subsided a bit.) I do think that the upgrade and additional features will make the newest Power Cab even more attractive to buyers. Way to go, NCE!
P.S. Graffen, I quickly checked the NCE Yahoo! Groups user forum but I didn't see much mentioned about the upgrade. I don't visit it all that often so that's not to say that it hasn't already been discussed there.
Thanks for the info :-D