What is tyhe best guage to use for bus wire? Also are suitcase connectors a good way to go? If so, is there anotyher way of crimping other than paying $80.00 for a crimping tool?
We talking about Orion, Nova, Neoplan, NABI or Bluebird?
To be serious for 2.3 seconds, I think you want the model rr forum...
It's been fun. But it isn't much fun anymore. Signing off for now.
The opinions expressed here represent my own and not those of my employer, any other railroad, company, or person.t fun any
Dr.A, both your questions have been answered innumerable times on this forum. If you search in "Search our Community" in the right sidebar with a suitable syntax, you are sure to find many earlier responses.
However, the gauge for the bus wire is dependent on the amperage you will need it to transmit. Generally, anything heavier/thicker than 14 gauge is a waste in the hobby, but plenty of us elect to use 12 gauge just 'cuz. Some 4X8 layouts would be more than well-served with 18 gauge wire. However, if the main track on that 4X8 were crammed with sound engines and about half towing the other half, 18 gauge would be far too light. Eight or more engines towing other engines that were not provided with commands to move in concert would require about 16 amps, give or take. That is way over the rating for 18 gauge wire.
It is a silly example, but I hope it is illustrative....the gauge you need must be able to provide continuous amperage at the max rate of your drawing devices.
I have no experience with the suitcase connectors. Some experienced modelers do, and they don't like them. Others have enjoyed solid utility from them and will use them on future layouts. So...you choose which side of the fence to fall.
I solder. It is quick, solid, reliable, and only very rarely painful.
Crandell
I have a large basement layout under constrution and I am using NO. 10 for the bus wires and NO. 18 to the feeder wires and NO. 22 for the feeder wires soldered to the track. I am going to be running all sound equipped locos and some in multiple unit lash ups with long trains. Given that, I'm also using the more powerful higher amp boosters and power supplies. (I use Easy DCC) I think the wiring is the same spec that the Kalmbach layout uses. Also note that I am using all solid wire rather than stranded, as some report that stranded wire can come undone over time in suitcase connnectors.
As to suitcase connectors, I just asked about that last week here and at other sites. I have been advised to stay away from the look alikes and use the 3M Scotchloks and will also use the more expensive Scotchlok crimping tool and two sizes of the Scotchlok connectors that will fit the three sizes of wiring. The look alikes are cheaper but don't have the two blades like the Scotchloks and may be inviting oxidizing problems based on some reports. I am also using an anti oxidizing paste in mine just for an added assurance. Humidity could be a problem with at least the cheaper look alikes and I use a dehumidifier in the basement anyway. Some may not agree with my decision and perhaps think it is overkill, but it has worked well for other modelers and large club layouts. If you use too large of wire you can't go wrong but it is more expensive. Yes, if you do a search here, youll find other posts on this subject.
DR. AnatomyWhat is tyhe best guage to use for bus wire?
Also are suitcase connectors a good way to go?
If so, is there anotyher way of crimping other than paying $80.00 for a crimping tool?