It could be that the point motor is defective. It doesn't take very long to burn them out if power has been applied to them for more than a brief moment. Test it first. Disconnect the transformer from the CDU (unplug it from the wall first!). Disconnect all the wires from the point motor but leave the jumper between the two common lugs intact. Connect one wire from the output of the transformer to the common connection of the point motor. Plug the transformer in again and MOMENTARILY touch the other transformer output wire to one of the "hot" lugs of the point motor. Do the same with the other lug. You should see the linkage move or at least try to move. And you'll probably see a little spark when you touch the transformer wire to the lug. If nothing happens at all with one or both "hot" lugs, the point motor is probably toast. The only way to tell for sure is to use an ohmmeter set on its lowest range. A good coil should show a few ohms resistance; a burned coil would show an open circuit. Unplug the transformer.
Assuming that the point motor tests okay, you probably have an open circuit somewhere. Make a quick and dirtyi continuity checker by attaching a wire or clip lead to one terminal of a 9 volt battery. Attach one wire of a 12 volt bulb (like a GOW bulb) to the other battery terminal. The two free wires hanging out are the probes of your continuity checker. They both need to have about 1/4" of insulation stripped off them. To check that the continuity checker is working, touch these two wire together. The bulb should light up.
I'm looking at the sketch you posted as I write this. Disconnect both wires from the output of the CDU. Disconnect the two "hot" wires from the point motor. Attach the common wire to the point motor. Clip on lead of your continuity checker to the wire you have marked for connecting to the "-" output of the CDU. Touch the other continuity checker wire to the joined common lugs of the point motor. Lamp should light. If not, move the CC (continuity checker) wire from the point motor to where the wire from the point motor is attached to the terminal strip. If it doesn't light up, move it to the terminal strip lug that has the wire coming from the "-" terminal of the CDU. Whenever you get a point where the light doesn't light up but at the next point it does light up, then you have an open circuit between those two points. You are working backwards from the farthest point towards where the other wire of the CC is connected. Or, if you wish, you could start where the other CC wire is attached and work your way outwards away from it.
Let's assume that the common wire checks out (the CC bulb lit up on the first step. Now we check the "+" side of the circuit. Move the CC wire from the wire which attaches to the "-" side of the CDU to the wire which attaches to the "+" side of the CDU. This time, just for variety, we'll work outwards. Touch the other CC wire to the terminal strip. If it lights, touch the wire to the center terminal of the switch. If it lights up, move it to one of the outer terminals and operate the switch. If it lights up move the CC wire to the end of the wire which goes from that side of the switch to one of the "hot" lugs of the point motor. Do the same thing with the other outer lug of the switch.
Before you start measuring with the CC, make sure you've disconnected the two wires from the output of the CDU. You will attach one lead of the CC to one of those wires and leave it attached during the tests for that half of the circuit, moving the other CC wire from place to place. Do not have anything powered up during this test! Or even connected to power!
A few things to watch out for. As a previous poster pointed out, on a barrier terminal strip, with two screws between each barrier, they are internally connected across the strip, not along the strip. You can verify this with the CC. If you need to have more than one pair of screws connected together, such as what you may want for the common wire terminal strip, you have to join all the screws along one side together with a length of bare wire slipped under each screw. The toggle switch you are using, if it's the kind that you can pick up at Radio Shack and mounts in a 1/4" dia. hole, connects the middle terminal to the outside terminal OPPOSITE to the direction the handle is thrown. Also, if you are using toggle switches, you MUST use center-off, momentary switches. These switches are spring loaded to return to the center position when you let go of them, cutting off the connection. Slide switches connect the center terminals to the same side that the handle is pushed and the switches that come with Atlas turnout controls don't make contact until you push down on the handle. Another way to control turnouts is with MOMENTARY pushbuttons. This requires two pushbuttons per turnout--one for each route.
I hope this helps you in some way and I wish you luck getting your turnouts to work.
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Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.