hwolf OK Lets use the KISS method. The trouble was a poor solder connection at the switch. Harold
OK
Lets use the KISS method.
The trouble was a poor solder connection at the switch.
Harold
Don't you love it?
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain hwolf OK Lets use the KISS method. The trouble was a poor solder connection at the switch. Harold LOL Don't you love it? Rich
LOL
Still doesn't explain the zero voltage on points 3 and 4, unless that's the switch he means.
maxman, I agree with you. It does not explain the zero voltage nor does it adress LION and Randy's contention that the LED is simply wired in reverse. Just one more mystery thread on the Electronics and DCC forum.
Sure it does - the bas solder joint was not on pins 3 or 4, it was on one of the cross wires. So, flip switch one way - the way that connects the input to the center, you get a reading. Flip it the other way, where it has to pass through the X wires, except the one of the X wires is not correctly attached, loose, whatever - now there will be no voltage at 3 and 4.
I go for the reversed LED because that's USUALLY the easier thing to mess up than a basic solder joint Heck, usually if you crimp the wires on the switch lugs tight enough, it 'works' before even soldering it.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
So, once the poor soldering job was corrected, did it work as diagrammed?
Was Randy's solution to reverse the two LEDs incorrect?
If he was getting no power because of a bad connection, then neither of the LEDs probably needed to be reversed.
Like I said at the beginning - the DIAGRAM is absolutely correct, it has the correct LED polarities. But actually hooking it up - it's easy to get one backwards, especially if the leads have been trimmed.
rrinker Sure it does - the bas solder joint was not on pins 3 or 4, it was on one of the cross wires.
Sure it does - the bas solder joint was not on pins 3 or 4, it was on one of the cross wires.
I put the voltmeter probes on #3 and #4 terminals of one my perfectly well soldered DPDT switches and failed to get a reading. Then I flipped the switch and got the expected voltage reading. Flipped the switch again, no reading. Reversed the probes and got the expected voltage reading.
So, at this point, Harold has not explained the zero reading on his switch.
And, we are left to believe that correcting the poor solder joint solved the problem without having to do anything with the LED conection.
rrinker If he was getting no power because of a bad connection, then neither of the LEDs probably needed to be reversed. Like I said at the beginning - the DIAGRAM is absolutely correct, it has the correct LED polarities. But actually hooking it up - it's easy to get one backwards, especially if the leads have been trimmed. --Randy
I was going to put a jumper across to check the switch. When I pressed on the lead a noticed the LED came on. I pressed on the wire and it moved. I resoldered the connection and both LEDs work as well as the turnout throw. All of the circuit diagram was correct. There are ten other turnouts wire exactly the same way. As I said in an earier tread before I install the LEDs throught the panel I strip A piece of black and red insulation from a wire and cover the LED leads. That way I know to install the Red lead to the Black lead. It avoid trying to figure which is the Long or Short.