Soldering

[Anonymous]

Beginner here and am curious about soldering.

1. Why do you solder and is it necessary to do so?

2. What happens if you don't solder?

3. Are there other alternatives to using solder, like products such as JB Weld?

4. How much does a basic soldering kit cost?


Thank you!

Steve

[willy6]

Steve,
I'm not a soldering expert, the only things I solder are my minature toggle switches because there is no other way to connect the wiring. hang loose, there is a bunch of soldering experts on this forum. I'm sure you be getting a bunch of replies in 24 hours.

[Seamonster]

Let me try to answer your questions.
1. You solder to join things together, and no you don't always have to solder. There are alternate methods to joining things, but some connections have to be soldered. You *could* join two wires by twisting them tightly together and it would probably work okay. After all, the electrical connections in your house are all twisted together, not soldered. But electricians use special "wire nuts" that squa***he wires tightly into each other forming a tight bond with virtually no resistance and which won't come apart. You can join two wires together with a crimping sleve, which is squashed tightly onto the wires forming an unbreakable bond. This is how lugs are attached onto the ends of wires when we want to hook them up to screw terminal strips. There's also wire-wrapping where you use a special tool to tightly wrap a few turns of light-gauge bare wire around special square posts. This technique is pretty well used only in industrial applications, and is impossible to use to join ordinary components like resistors, capacitors and transistors.

However, there are some connections which are designed only for soldering together. As willy6 mentioned he has to solder to switches because they come with solder lugs on the back of them (little metal closed loops). As a matter of fact, virtually every electronic or electrical component we would use is designed to be soldered to--resistors, capacitors, transistors, integrated circuits, switches, pots, lamps, light-emitting diodes, etc. We're stuck with soldering connections whether we like it or not.

2. It's simple, if you don't solder, you'll have a loose connection that will intermittently interrupt the flow of electricity. Your locomotive will jerk its way along the track, or not move at all. Your lamps will blink on and off or won't light up at all. You'll spend more time under your layout cursing and swearing trying to find loose connections than you will spend operating. Worse yet, if the loose connection is carrying a high current, it may start arcing and sparking and start a fire.

3. I pretty much covered this one in #1. I can't comment on JB Weld as I haven't heard about it.

4. Not much at all. You can get a basic 30 or 40 watt soldering iron at Radio Shack for $8 or $9. A holder with built-in tip cleaner is another $7. A half-pound roll of solder (which should last you for years) is about $8. So, you can get started for less than $25.

Here's a few tips on what to buy and why. You need only a 30 or 40 watt iron for general electronic and electrical work on your model RR, including soldering feeder wires to rail. Anything less than 30 watts won't produce enough heat for large-sized connections and rail, and anything more than 40 watts will overheat and melt things. The iron holder is to keep the iron from rolling around and burning things--including you. It has a cage around the hot part so you can't touch it. Keep the sponge in the holder damp and wipe the tip of the iron on it frequently to clean it. Use *only* 60/40 rosin-core solder, designed for electronic and electrical work. *Never ever* use any kind of acid-based flux. It will destroy the connection over time. With rosin-core solder, you do not need flux of any kind.

I hope this has answered your questions, Steve. Obviously, you've never soldered anything before, but I don't want to get into a lesson on the techniques of soldering here. I've already used up a lot of space. I've taught people how to solder, and if you want, you can e-mail me and I'll try to give you some e-mail lessons. Good luck!
...Bob

[egmurphy]

Bob,

Just have to compliment you on your response. Very thorough and clear. Great example of what everyone hopes to get in a response to their question.


Best regards

Ed

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Seamonster
I hope this has answered your questions, Steve. Obviously, you've never soldered anything before, but I don't want to get into a lesson on the techniques of soldering here. I've already used up a lot of space. I've taught people how to solder, and if you want, you can e-mail me and I'll try to give you some e-mail lessons. Good luck!
...Bob

Thanks everyone, especially Bob. I really appreciate your helpfulness. When the day comes that I buy a solder and need the help, I'll remember this post and take you up on your offer.

Thanks again and take it easy.

Steve

[grayfox1119]

Bob, I have been soldering since I was 12 and I am 66 now, you have given one of the best replies I have ever seen on this subject....my compliments...well done!!!

[howmus]

Hi Slim,

I prefer to solder my connections as much as possible. Soldering provides a solid connection that if done right will not come apart. Even when I use a crimp tool to put a spade lug on a wire, I take a moment (that is all it takes) and hit it with solder. Try this, crimp a spade lug onto stranded (or even solid) wire, then hold the lug in one hand and turn the wire and wiggle it with the other. About 1 in 3 will loosen and may even fall off.

I learned to solder working for the Phone Company during the summers I was at college (back in the days of the old XY offices where all the main connections were done by hand on the frame). The common mistakes people make are:
1. Using too much solder. It doesn't take that much.
2. Not "tinning" (pre soldering or adding solder to the tip of the hot iron before using) both the iron and the work to be soldered when appropriate.
3. Using too much or too little heat. I use a 25 watt iron for most of my layout work.
4. Letting a part move before the solder is set. Make sure that the solder has hardened before you move anything. The result is a cold solder joint which isn't strong. A cold joint will have a dull look to it and is easy to spot.

The trick is too get in make the connection and get out as soon as possible.
If you tin the iron, you can get the job done without melting ties or sensitive ellectronics. A friend who solders #30 or smaller wire used in Microphones and other sound equipment never adds solder when he is joining. The solder is on the iron and he pretins the wires. Hits it for about 1/2 second and he is done. It really isn't hard with a little practice and takes MUCH less time than troubleshooting an open later on.

Happy trains! [:)]

[challenger3802]

In answer to question 4.

There's a company called Antex who do good quality soldering irons, plus all the accessories you'll ever need for them. I got a 25W iron for around £20 at a recent exhibition, complete with a stand, bit of solder and a replacement tip.

If you want to go expensive to the high quality end of the market, then you'll probably buy from a company called Weller. Our company uses these irons and they last a very long time.

Hope this helps you
Ian

[camarokid]

When soldering, I always use a small fan to blow the solder smoke away from my nose. No need to suck in all that nasty stuff and put a serious hurt on your lungs over a lifetime.
Archie

[mcouvillion]

Slim,

All the above recommendations are very good. My favorite iron is an Antex. A little more expensive than the Radio Shack models, but well worth it. Check Google for a distributor in the US and all the available options and tips.

Try not to breathe the fumes. They are probably not very good for lungs.

Check the forum archives for other threads on soldering. I have posted many times on this subject for newcomers. There are plenty of neat techniques and practice ideas in these threads. You might have to go back several months.

When you decide to solder wire to the side of the rail, clean the side of the rail first of paint, corrosion, or plastic, then score it a little to put some small grooves in it. (I use a dentist's scraper.) Then tin the scored location. The solder will hold better here. Pre-tin your wire, then hold the wire against the rail and touch with the iron. It will usually bond with no additional solder. With practice you will determine a successful technique of your own.

Practice, practice, practice. Use an old transister radio to learn how to dis-assemble and re-assemble electronic components. You will learn to hold small stuff with needle nose pliers or hemostats (best) so as to not burn yourself ("Gee, Slim, it sure didn't take you very long to inspect that new solder connection!")

Have fun.

Mark C.

[Anonymous]

Hi Folks... Another Soldering novice here...

Thanks for the great advice! It actually almost makes sense to me. I will have to look up a couple words, but other than that I think I understand.

I do have one question though on the soldering irons. I have seen advertised lately on TV one of those "cold" touch soldering irons where it supposedly immediately cools down to touch right after you use it. It looks like it can handle heavier to light material from what they show. I am hoping to use mine no only for my model RR stuff, but my daughter Sterling Silver Charm Bracelet once I get a little better and I thought that this iron might work for that too.

Anyone tried one of these and are they any good? Always a little sceptical about those TV add items. Or do you suggest any others that I could also use on a silver bracelet? I know I will have to get some special solder for that, but that is a minor problem I hope.

I have done minor soldering in the past on pipes, but that is using a torch and not an iron. I have not started my layout yet, but I am getting close and figure I am about a month away from making the big buying/building plunge.

[snowey]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Seamonster

Let me try to answer your questions.
1. You solder to join things together, and no you don't always have to solder. There are alternate methods to joining things, but some connections have to be soldered. You *could* join two wires by twisting them tightly together and it would probably work okay. After all, the electrical connections in your house are all twisted together, not soldered. But electricians use special "wire nuts" that squa***he wires tightly into each other forming a tight bond with virtually no resistance and which won't come apart. You can join two wires together with a crimping sleve, which is squashed tightly onto the wires forming an unbreakable bond. This is how lugs are attached onto the ends of wires when we want to hook them up to screw terminal strips. There's also wire-wrapping where you use a special tool to tightly wrap a few turns of light-gauge bare wire around special square posts. This technique is pretty well used only in industrial applications, and is impossible to use to join ordinary components like resistors, capacitors and transistors.

However, there are some connections which are designed only for soldering together. As willy6 mentioned he has to solder to switches because they come with solder lugs on the back of them (little metal closed loops). As a matter of fact, virtually every electronic or electrical component we would use is designed to be soldered to--resistors, capacitors, transistors, integrated circuits, switches, pots, lamps, light-emitting diodes, etc. We're stuck with soldering connections whether we like it or not.

2. It's simple, if you don't solder, you'll have a loose connection that will intermittently interrupt the flow of electricity. Your locomotive will jerk its way along the track, or not move at all. Your lamps will blink on and off or won't light up at all. You'll spend more time under your layout cursing and swearing trying to find loose connections than you will spend operating. Worse yet, if the loose connection is carrying a high current, it may start arcing and sparking and start a fire.

3. I pretty much covered this one in #1. I can't comment on JB Weld as I haven't heard about it.

4. Not much at all. You can get a basic 30 or 40 watt soldering iron at Radio Shack for $8 or $9. A holder with built-in tip cleaner is another $7. A half-pound roll of solder (which should last you for years) is about $8. So, you can get started for less than $25.

Here's a few tips on what to buy and why. You need only a 30 or 40 watt iron for general electronic and electrical work on your model RR, including soldering feeder wires to rail. Anything less than 30 watts won't produce enough heat for large-sized connections and rail, and anything more than 40 watts will overheat and melt things. The iron holder is to keep the iron from rolling around and burning things--including you. It has a cage around the hot part so you can't touch it. Keep the sponge in the holder damp and wipe the tip of the iron on it frequently to clean it. Use *only* 60/40 rosin-core solder, designed for electronic and electrical work. *Never ever* use any kind of acid-based flux. It will destroy the connection over time. With rosin-core solder, you do not need flux of any kind.

I hope this has answered your questions, Steve. Obviously, you've never soldered anything before, but I don't want to get into a lesson on the techniques of soldering here. I've already used up a lot of space. I've taught people how to solder, and if you want, you can e-mail me and I'll try to give you some e-mail lessons. Good luck!
...Bob

good answer! But you forgot to mention "Scotch-Loc Connectors" which are used to join 2 wires together, without stripping them. They're plastic squares witha "lid" that folds up, and has 2 small peices of metal in it, and 2 more on the "body". You stick a wire in each side, fold down the "lid", then squeeze it with a pair of pliers, and the two wires are joined together and insulated.

Radio Shack has their own brand that are called "Tap-Loc Connectors". They work the same way, exept you have two insert both wires in just one end, cause one end is closed.

[Anonymous]

It was recommended to use flux core solder. I agree with that for everything but track. Using paste flux on track will make the solder flow better and give you a better joint in less time and with less heat.
One of the most important things in soldering is to "Keep the tip clean". Keep some fine sand paper to rub the tip on occasionally and a damp sponge to wipe the tip on everytime you use it. Cleaner means better joints, quicker.