I have the Rivarossi turntable from the 60s. Great shape, very rugged, very realistic and works perfectly after I tweaked the controller, cleaned the contacts and bands. I disabled the locking pin and just eyeball.
Also I own the Bachmann which works very well. -Rob
MisterBeasleyI used an Atlas turntable to make a small pit turntable.
Hi MisterBeasley,
You did a great job on that turntable!
Cheers!!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Here are some photos of the 5 stall Korber roundhouse, which I built on my layout's partial upper level...
The wall segments didn't seem to respond to any of the glue that I had on-hand, so I used screws to connect the walls at all corners of the structure...
...and while it worked well at all of the structures corners, I decided to use Evergreen's H-columns to connect the front- and rear-wall segments of the building, as it made a much stronger bond when I filled the columns with JB Quik-Weld epoxy...
...once the support columns were in place...
...I could get started on the roof trusses...
...which fit snugly into place...
After removing the assembled trusses, I made five smoke-collector hoods, using sheet styrene...
...then added the roof (which was .060" sheet styrene), rather than the cardstock material which was part of the kit.
The roof is a one-piece assembly that can be removed if necessary...
I was going to use the doors that came with the Korber kit, but instead opted for ones from Grandt Line...
I used Black Beauty sandblasting medium as cinders, secured in-place with diluted white glue,, then added some puddles of "water", done with Varathane clear wood finish.
The turntable is from Walthers, slightly altered, and non-powered, other than finger power to align it as needed.
Wayne
hon30critter Someone suggested modifying an Atlas turntable. I have done that too. Building a pit and adding a bridge is somewhat complex, especially if you don't want the whole floor of the pit revolving with the bridge, but the biggest drawbacks involve the drive mechanism. The turntable is designed to pause every 15 degrees. If you want to turn something 180 degrees, it will stop 11 times before it gets to the desired location. That takes forever! Also, note that the Atlas turntable's 15 degree indexing is difficult to match most roundhouses to. Most roundhouses are designed for 10 degrees between tracks. That means that the only roundhouse that will work with the Atlas turntable is the Atlas unit which has its stalls at 15 degree intervals. Add to that the fact that the roundhouse stalls are relatively short makes the system only suitable for smaller locomotives. Oh, did I say the Atlas turntable was noisy? It is really noisy! Dreadfully noisy!! Dave
Someone suggested modifying an Atlas turntable. I have done that too. Building a pit and adding a bridge is somewhat complex, especially if you don't want the whole floor of the pit revolving with the bridge, but the biggest drawbacks involve the drive mechanism. The turntable is designed to pause every 15 degrees. If you want to turn something 180 degrees, it will stop 11 times before it gets to the desired location. That takes forever!
Also, note that the Atlas turntable's 15 degree indexing is difficult to match most roundhouses to. Most roundhouses are designed for 10 degrees between tracks. That means that the only roundhouse that will work with the Atlas turntable is the Atlas unit which has its stalls at 15 degree intervals. Add to that the fact that the roundhouse stalls are relatively short makes the system only suitable for smaller locomotives.
Oh, did I say the Atlas turntable was noisy? It is really noisy! Dreadfully noisy!!
I used an Atlas turntable to make a small pit turntable. My layout didn't have the space for a large turntable, so I adapted an Atlas. Yes, it was a lot of work.
The original turntable is only 9 inches across, about 65 feet in HO. It will hold my 0-6-0, but that's about all.
I cut a hole for it and mounted it to apiece of masonite below the layout. I cut the whole big enough for the motor mechanism. Yes, it's noisy, but encasing the whole thing in foam really helps.The bridge is a sawed-off Atlas deck bridge, here not sawed off yet.
I did build a false floor so the turntable could rotate along with the bridge, but the base of the pit stays fixed. I did curved castings of a rock wall mold for the pit wall.
I built a pit rail below and made bogies, because the center pivot was not strong enough to keep the bridge level with a locomotive on it. The pit floor is just a thin piece of styrene, with a lot of scenery on it. The roundhouse is also an Atlas, because it fits the 15 degree track spacing of the turntable. I still have my original turntable from the 60s, but that one has a 30 degree track spacing.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
In regards to the walthers 130 turntable they did have issues with the earliest built up. Ours at the club would just spin and spin and well as not program the stalls. Finally we rewired it with a decoder.
Jim
I used the Walthers 130ft DCC turntable and Walthers Modern Roundhouse (12 stalls). I was very careful with the turntable install and I never had any trouble with it. I plan to install/use it in the 'next' layout.
hon30critter Someone suggested modifying an Atlas turntable. I have done that too.
The atlas turntable works very well for N scale. Just lay a piece of N scale track across the top of it.
It is way too small for HO scale steam. It might not even fit a Niagra without the tender!
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I know that Tom is looking for a 120' turntable so my comments don't apply directly to his situation, but I would offer the following observations:
1. I built one of the early Walthers 90' kits and it was a real challenge to get it running properly. I had to modify the power transfer system for the bridge, and I had to adjust the position of the drive motor which was a fussy task. Eventually I got it to run smoothly. Note that I did not say 'quietly'! It makes a huge amount of noise! The bogie wheels are a joke. They aren't even round. As others have suggested, you get what you pay for and I would never buy another one! Having said that, apparently my modified 90' turntable is still going strong after several years at my old club.
2. Someone suggested modifying an Atlas turntable. I have done that too. Building a pit and adding a bridge is somewhat complex, especially if you don't want the whole floor of the pit revolving with the bridge, but the biggest drawbacks involve the drive mechanism. The turntable is designed to pause every 15 degrees. If you want to turn something 180 degrees, it will stop 11 times before it gets to the desired location. That takes forever!
Sorry if I hijacked the thread Tom,
I'm not sure that there'll be much interest, but here's a link...I've highlighted the link in blue, so all you need to do is right-click on it, then select on which link you'd wish to view
https://bigbluetrains.com/showthread.php?tid=7469&
...to a thread covering my build of a Korber kit for a five stall roundhouse. It begins with only a few photos, but they increase as it continues.
(The link does work for me, but I'm uncertain if the link will work for anyone else, but would appreciate if it someone would give it a try...you don't have to view all five pages.)
trainnut1250 Turntables and Roundhouses? Turntables: I’ve always felt this should be easier than it is in HO scale…There aren’t many options when you start looking around for RTR turntables. Of course opinions vary. Good luck with the project, Guy
Turntables and Roundhouses?
Turntables: I’ve always felt this should be easier than it is in HO scale…There aren’t many options when you start looking around for RTR turntables.
Of course opinions vary.
Good luck with the project,
Guy
25 or 35 years ago it was not a RTR hobby with regard to things like turntables.
And kit or RTR they are still expensive as they have always been - because they are big and complex by nature for the most part.
Easier? That would take a lot more money most people will not pay. Why would any manufacturer try to compete with Walthers for the RTR 130' turntable market at this point?
Building my CMR turntable was relatively easy, a little time consuming, but not difficult.
I do understand that for some folks "time consuming = difficult".
Sheldon
Tom,
I have one of the DCC Walthers 130' turntables I'm going to be taking to the train show at North Platte Nebraska to sell in mid-April. along with a just-started modern roundhouse and three add-on kits. If you're anywhere near that area, you might stop by...
Meanwhile I need two more 90' turntables (probably go with Walthers, because the one I've had on my layout has always worked great), and one 75' that will probably be a Diamond Scale kit.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
About Walther’s: The complaints Kevin is referring to are about the KITs from the early days. I have heard good things about the built-up Walther’s and that would be my go-to recommendation.
The other option is to modify an Atlas turntable and there have been several threads about how to use the mechanism while upgrading the realism of the pit and bridge. I would also look into Peco as a possibility but that does appear to be a kit…
Of course, your other option is to build something. I don’t recommend this unless you are up for a big challenge… I’ve scratch built two turntables. They are fussy, tricky things to build.
I’m sure the CMR kit is good – my buddy used one on his layout and it worked well…I don’t recommend the Diamond scale kits unless you are using them for parts (very fussy build). Avoid Walthers kits – the history here is pretty well documented……..
If you can find one that is the right size, opt for the Walther’s. I needed smaller turntables and thus ended up scratch building two of them. Depending on your track plan, remember not everything has to fit on your turntable… I turn the big stuff on the wye…
Roundhouse: As for round houses I had a Vollmer version on an old layout – Beautiful kit that can easily be modified to look more North American….I scratch built my current roundhouse/engine houses so I am of no help there….
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
tstage Sheldon, It has to be a least 120' to turn my 115.5' Niagara with the PT-4 tender. Every other NYC locomotive in my roster is less than that. (My NYC 2-6-6-2 Mallet is only '86 long.) IIRC, CMR has a 120' & 135' TT; Walthers has their 130'. Tom
Sheldon,
It has to be a least 120' to turn my 115.5' Niagara with the PT-4 tender. Every other NYC locomotive in my roster is less than that. (My NYC 2-6-6-2 Mallet is only '86 long.) IIRC, CMR has a 120' & 135' TT; Walthers has their 130'.
Tom
I bought the 90'er, Tom, I think some time before purchasing my Paragon QSI Niagara. Later, I read that sometimes the roads would jack up the last axle or two on a PT tender so that the flanges cleared the ends of the radials ending on the pit lip, and still managed to turn the longer engines. I did that a couple of times on my 90' TT with the BLI Niagara, and it works!
SeeYou190 I am fascinated by the number of people that responded to this thread stating that they had no problems with the Walthers Cornerstone turntables. I recall plenty of threads on here where people described the efforts required to make one of these work properly. Many concluded there was no way to make the DCC controls/indexing work correctly. Now people seem to say these are a good option. No real comment of conclusion, I just find this new information very interesting indeed. -Kevin
I am fascinated by the number of people that responded to this thread stating that they had no problems with the Walthers Cornerstone turntables.
I recall plenty of threads on here where people described the efforts required to make one of these work properly. Many concluded there was no way to make the DCC controls/indexing work correctly.
Now people seem to say these are a good option.
No real comment of conclusion, I just find this new information very interesting indeed.
In my nearly 18 years on this forum, Kevin, I have seen many complaints about the pre-2006 Build-up Indexed version that was NOT built-up...it was a kit. That kit had a separate motorizing kit. It was my first attempt, and only later did all the other complaints appear that the pits were out-of-round and other problems with nesting the motor into the drive components.
When the Built-up indexable version came, I grabbed one, and I must say I have had very good results with it. As the instructions are rather specific and careful, some were put off by the odd glitch or the requirement to keep the pit scrupulously free of any dust and debris, such as cat dander, dog hairs, bits of ground foam, ballast, etc. If you follow the instructions about powering the device, and if you can manage to get it indexed per the instructions (most do), it's a very good addition to a layout.
But, happily, Walthers has redone the earlier kit. I can't speak to it, especially if the bearing for the bridge pivot now works well, and if the motor and large pinion gear can be successfully added to the works below the pit so that it all meshes fully one fully turn, etc. Mine didn't.
I think part of the issue is there have been at least three different versions of the Walthers 130' turntable, maybe more.
It did have some growing pains along the way from what I recall.
My view is like this, turntables and roundhouses are expensive features no matter what brand and no matter kit or ready to drop in.
I have the Walthers operating swing bridge, and it is an OK product. But not really very "heavy duty" from a mechanical standpoint. In fact is uses the same drive kit as the original Walthers 90' turntable.
I figure the swing bridge will not see a lot of actual use, a turntable on the other hand should see a lot more.
So I am inclined to err on the side of caution and go with something a bit heavier duty.
My CMR turntable is powered by a Dayton gear reduction display motor with metal gears and gear case. Can't say for sure if CMR is still offering the same setup, bought my quite a while ago.
While we are talking about turntables, we should include this product:
https://nyrs.com/index.html
Expsenive but feature packed.
On another note, I mentioned earlier there does not seem much difference in size between the Walthers 130' and CMR 135', but there may be some conflicting info out there reguarding the Walthers product.
It would be interesting if some of you could measure the length of your turntable bridge.
I bought the first built up 90' model with the index control, ready to go. It was not made for DCC. However, on the turntable track I added a DCC Specialties PSX-AR auto reverser and everything runs just fine since 2014. I bought the turntable probably when that model first came out (can't remember when that was).
Neal
I had the 90' kit and it was atrocious. My 110' rtr is not the DCC version although they offer an upgrade kit for it.
Mike
I did a quick non-scientific Internet search on the Walthers TT issues. It appears that the biggest troublemakers were the 90' kit version (plastic molding issues), and the 130' version (indexing and rotation issues). I think that indeed, there was a bad batch of the 130'.
Simon
There has been a lot of talk about the problems the Walthers TT had, however, on some other sites I read it was just a bad batch with the biggest complaint being Walthers did not want to address the issue. I have had issues with some Rapido products and Rapido promptly fixed them and they have been flawless ever since, I think if Walthers had treated their customers the same way the press would have been better for the product. and they would have sold a lot more TTs.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I'm a user-mod so I use and contribute to the forum - just like everyone else.
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
While I know nothing about roundhouses, I appreciate a moderator starting a forum topic.
Hi there. I went with the pre-assembled Walthers 90'. I had no space for the wider one, so my longer locos run straight through on a track beside the roundhouse. It can handle HO and HOn3 - I added a dual-gauge strip of track on top of it. it adds a lot of action to my somewhat smallish layout.
The turntable runs very well, indexed with DCC. I've read that the assembled model is better than the kit, but I don't know if that information is still up to date. I only need to calibrate it from time to time, which is a one push button operation.
IMG_20230221_103543 , on Flickr
Water Level RouteTom, I totally get if you have your heart set on a 130', but if they are available and you are open to them, the Walther's 110' will fit a Niagara. Same reason they had the overhang at the rear of the prototype tender makes them work on shorter turntables on our model railroads too. Here is my BLI Niagara w/ PT4 tender on my 110' Walthers turntable. It's snug, but it fits.
Thanks for that bit of information, Mike. Good to know!
Brent,
As mentioned, at least 120' for the TT. Same for the RH.
A 6-stall RT should fit decently on a 36" wide shelf with an ~3" buffer off each corner. The RH would be placed down near one end of the shelf so that the RH and TT would face toward the opposite end. This would allow for access into the fueling terminal and one end of the double-ended yard.
Still designing those two areas. Just started reading two MR guides that I had packed away ("Freight Yards" and "Locomotive Servicing Terminals") to better understand those operations. I have a few other Kalmbach books on layout design but want to read these first.
Niagara/PT4 on 110’ turntable by Michael, on Flickr
A pair of F units will fit on it as well, but a pair of E units or Alco PA's will not.
Not sure why they are described as differen in length, but the Walthers 130' and the CMR 135' are basically the same length.
Tom, what size are considering?
Mine is 90'. These things can eat lots of real estate. I can get a Hudson on it, however, 2-10-4s are too big. Someone on FB mentioned that in the real world to get a loco into the RH that didn't fit on the TT you could just straight-shot it across the TT into a stall (why didn't I think of that). So for every approach track to the TT you can get a larger engine inside. So I settled on the 90'
If I want to turn a larger engine, I have a balloon track around the RH and can use that, which I also use to turn whole trains around.
Here is a 2-10-4 with its bum out. Straight shot in and it is warm for the night.