Ballasting tools

[BATMAN]

I use this spoon that is free for the asking from the Pharmacy. It is for dispensing children's medicine.

[Overmod]

PennCentral99

If this can shoot salt, should be able to handle ballast.

I had no idea!  Taken from their Web site:

BAL-AST-SALT 3.0 is specifically tailored to the needs of the more serious hobbiest [sic].  Those who are fluent in weaponry & gun handling will appreciate custom improvements such as cross-bolt safety, trigger redesign, and Patridge sight (not to be confused with the bird, the sight is named after the famous rifleman Patridge). 

We are very proud of this new, effective addition to our family.  However, we must warn that instead of leaving ballast neatly in the cribs for easy cleanup, it may shotgun it many more prototypical places.  Lorenzo also assures the 3.0 model greatly increases odds for full helix and staging-yard coverage even around curves.

Includes 90-day warranty, limited 1-year warranty with proof of purchase

 

UPDATED FEATURES:

• New Cross-Bolt Safety!  Once it's on, it's on.  Once it's off, it's off. Feel free to rapid fire, folks!
• Sleek design has streamlined the feel of the gun.  It's like butter on toast.
• Updated engineering on trigger mechanism.   It's now VERY light – so be careful!  Keep away from children, pets, & idiots. 
• Barrel has been lifted & Patridge sight added for extremely accurate shooting.  You can shoot N gauge track now!
• Improved, more durable salt hopper makes tactical reloads easy during the heat of battle.
• Stronger spring creates a tighter ballast pattern.

[PennCentral99]

If this can shoot salt, should be able to handle ballast. Probably use this for hard to reach areas.

Terry

[Carolina Northern]

FlattenedQuarter

I'm getting ready to ballast my 360' of track. I've taped everything off and got 100 lbs of masons sand loaded into my sand blaster. I tested it and running at 3.1415 psi I calculated that it should take me (assuming I can turn in a circle fast enough) 28.340 seconds to lay it all down. For fixing it down I've built a fogger using an old 10lb propane cylinder filled with equal parts of elmers, water and tannerite. I'll be starting it from the other room with my .243

 

 

 

I had to check to be sure it wasn't April.

 

Don

[Overmod]

FlattenedQuarter

and running at 3.1415 psi I calculated that it should take me (assuming I can turn in a circle fast enough) 28.340 seconds to lay it all down.

But to four-place precision that's 3.1416psi, so you'd better recalculate; safety first and all that, you know.

And you're not supposed to mix the Tannerite before, ah, deploying the constituents.  I recommend getting some of those hexamine heating tablets for model steam engines and treating them with nitric acid if you need prompt levitation to where the ballasting adhesive will settle evenly but with thorough coverage.

[FlattenedQuarter]

I'm getting ready to ballast my 360' of track. I've taped everything off and got 100 lbs of masons sand loaded into my sand blaster. I tested it and running at 3.1415 psi I calculated that it should take me (assuming I can turn in a circle fast enough) 28.340 seconds to lay it all down. For fixing it down I've built a fogger using an old 10lb propane cylinder filled with equal parts of elmers, water and tannerite. I'll be starting it from the other room with my .243

[Overmod]

PennCentral99

Seems the correct tool for this job could be a shot glass......

That is what is shown in the picture I posted...

[mbinsewi]

doctorwayne

I find the shot glass better suited for use after the ballasting session has been completed.

  Hear Hear!!  

Mike.

[doctorwayne]

PennCentral99

Seems the correct tool for this job could be a shot glass......

I find the shot glass better suited for use after the ballasting session has been completed.

Wayne

[PennCentral99]

peahrens

mbinsewi

This is a great example on how helpful these forums are.  Had I known about using the epoxy earlier, I could have avoided the mess I had on my hands when I tried to cut the top of the cup off to reduce the size to 4 oz.  

 

 

I was considering my next layout might be N scale, but not now.  There is no way I could find the correct size ballast cup.

Seems the correct tool for this job could be a shot glass......

Terry

[York1]

Pruitt

The wit in this thread is just amazing! Don't anybody quit your day jobs.

My wife doesn't think I'm funny, either.

[Pruitt]

The wit in this thread is just amazing!

Don't anybody quit your day jobs.

[doctorwayne]

richhotrain

 

 

doctorwayne

 

richhotrain

Wane, thank you for your invaluable tutorial. One question. Which size paper cup would you recommend? 

Sorry, Rick, but I was unaware that there were other sizes.

Warren 

 

 

 

Thanks, Waylon

Always happy to be of assistance, Ricardo.

Wesley

[Overmod]

peahrens

There is no way I could find the correct size ballast cup.

You need to think outside the cup... I mean box:

[richhotrain]

peahrens

 

mbinsewi

This is a great example on how helpful these forums are.  Had I known about using the epoxy earlier, I could have avoided the mess I had on my hands when I tried to cut the top of the cup off to reduce the size to 4 oz.   

I was considering my next layout might be N scale, but not now.  There is no way I could find the correct size ballast cup. 

[peahrens]

mbinsewi

This is a great example on how helpful these forums are.  Had I known about using the epoxy earlier, I could have avoided the mess I had on my hands when I tried to cut the top of the cup off to reduce the size to 4 oz.  

I was considering my next layout might be N scale, but not now.  There is no way I could find the correct size ballast cup.

[Overmod]

mbinsewi

This is a great example on how helpful these forums are.  Had I known about using the epoxy earlier, I could have avoided the mess I had on my hands when I tried to cut the top of the cup off to reduce the size to 4 oz.

Your problem was that you did not know to use the epoxy to re-form the stiffening rim after reducing the cup height.  You need less epoxy that way vs. just pouring into the bottom, and the ballast will not tend to stick to the epoxy as it does on humid days or if you didn't get the mix of resin to hardener exact enough.  Just make a ring on a piece of non-stick material and lay your calibrated-to-size cup upside down until the epoxy has thoroughly cured, about 72 hours.

This is also useful for those who model using the metric system (and actually HO scale ballast has to be measured in metric because it's 3.5mm or whatever to the foot, so the 4oz is technically off by a critical conversion percentage).  I confess that this is all new to me so I'll appreciate someone giving the correct SI size and unit name for ballast volume.

[mbinsewi]

This is a great example on how helpful these forums are.  Had I known about using the epoxy earlier, I could have avoided the mess I had on my hands when I tried to cut the top of the cup off to reduce the size to 4 oz.  

Thanks to Ron and Wilton for the great tutorial!  

Lesson learned! 

Mike.

[richhotrain]

York1

 

richhotrain

One question. Which size paper cup would you recommend? Rich 

Use the 4 ounce cups.  Whatever you do, don't use a 4¼ ounce cup!  I made that mistake, and it was days fixing the mess. 

Yikes, glad I asked cuz I only had 4 1/4 ounce cups. Solved the problem by pouring 2-part epoxy into the cup to reduce the capacity to 4 ounces.

Rich

[richhotrain]

doctorwayne

 

richhotrain

Wane, thank you for your invaluable tutorial. One question. Which size paper cup would you recommend? 

Sorry, Rick, but I was unaware that there were other sizes.

Warren 

Thanks, Waylon

[doctorwayne]

richhotrain

Wane, thank you for your invaluable tutorial. One question. Which size paper cup would you recommend?

Sorry, Rick, but I was unaware that there were other sizes.

Warren

[kasskaboose]

York1

richhotrain

One question. Which size paper cup would you recommend? Rich

 

 

Use the 4 ounce cups.  Whatever you do, don't use a 4¼ ounce cup!  I made that mistake, and it was days fixing the mess.

 

Why does the difference matter so greatly?

I used a sturdy plastic spoon also and 1" brush on the 1st layout and plan to do likewise on the current one.  Glad I didn't start this effort yet.  I need to first redo track and add elevation. 

[York1]

richhotrain

One question. Which size paper cup would you recommend? Rich

Use the 4 ounce cups.  Whatever you do, don't use a 4¼ ounce cup!  I made that mistake, and it was days fixing the mess.

[joe323]

Wayne

I agree my layout was ballasted a few years ago with the tools you specify.  If and when I build another layout I will use the same tools.

[richhotrain]

doctorwayne

Why would anyone spend money on tools with limited use, when simple stuff that most modellers have on hand will do the job just as well or even better.

Here's my ballast-spreading tool kit...

To use this complicated high-tech equipment, gently grasp the paper cup, then use it to scoop-up some ballast material - the stuff shown is screened limestone "fines", but the cup will also work with other real rock products, and also Woodland Scenics ballast, made using crushed walnut shells.

Next, carry the cup to the site where ballast is required, then begin to dump the contents onto the track, while moving the cup along so as to not drop too much in one spot.  For really tight locales, you can squeeze the cup to get more precise application.
You can normally dump the cup's contents mostly between the rails, but if the track is atop an embankment, you may need to dump more outside the rails, too. 

The next step is to spread the ballast, using the 1/2" brush.  For the material between the rails, keep the brush as close as possible to parallel with the track, dragging any excess material along the track until the tie-tops are fully exposed.  Repeat the process on both edges outside the rails, adding more ballast where needed, and grooming it with the brush.
You can do the ballasting in whatever lengths suit your available time or interest, but before you get to the stage where you pre-wet the ballast with "wet" water, in preparation for adding the diluted white glue, there's one more crucial step.....

....and it is to lightly grasp the ferrule of the brush with the fingers of one hand, laying the handle across the rails, then, while moving along not too quickly, use the fingers of your free hand to rapidly tap the brush handle.  As you do this, you'll notice that any stray particles of ballast atop the ties will "magically" bounce off the ties and into place between the ties.

This method work on track on roadbed...

...and track directly on plywood...

...and track where it looks like you might run out of ballast before the embankment is properly covered...

Don't be intimidated by this high tech approach...give it a try and save your dough.

Wayne 

Wane, thank you for your invaluable tutorial.

One question.

Which size paper cup would you recommend?

Rich

[doctorwayne]

hbgatsf

Is that because you never tried a spreader or that you used one and didn't like the results?

Why would anyone spend money on tools with limited use, when simple stuff that most modellers have on hand will do the job just as well or even better.

Here's my ballast-spreading tool kit...

To use this complicated high-tech equipment, gently grasp the paper cup, then use it to scoop-up some ballast material - the stuff shown is screened limestone "fines", but the cup will also work with other real rock products, and also Woodland Scenics ballast, made using crushed walnut shells.

Next, carry the cup to the site where ballast is required, then begin to dump the contents onto the track, while moving the cup along so as to not drop too much in one spot.  For really tight locales, you can squeeze the cup to get more precise application.
You can normally dump the cup's contents mostly between the rails, but if the track is atop an embankment, you may need to dump more outside the rails, too. 

The next step is to spread the ballast, using the 1/2" brush.  For the material between the rails, keep the brush as close as possible to parallel with the track, dragging any excess material along the track until the tie-tops are fully exposed.  Repeat the process on both edges outside the rails, adding more ballast where needed, and grooming it with the brush.
You can do the ballasting in whatever lengths suit your available time or interest, but before you get to the stage where you pre-wet the ballast with "wet" water, in preparation for adding the diluted white glue, there's one more crucial step.....

....and it is to lightly grasp the ferrule of the brush with the fingers of one hand, laying the handle across the rails, then, while moving along not too quickly, use the fingers of your free hand to rapidly tap the brush handle.  As you do this, you'll notice that any stray particles of ballast atop the ties will "magically" bounce off the ties and into place between the ties.

This method works for track on roadbed...

...and track directly on plywood...

...and track where it looks like you might run out of ballast before the embankment is properly covered...

Don't be intimidated by this high tech approach...give it a try and save your dough.

Wayne

[SeeYou190]

hbgatsf

Anything special about a plastic spoon vs a metal one?

I prefer a metal one tablespoon measuring spoon with square sides. This gives excellent control.

-Kevin

[peahrens]

Pruitt

I use a good quality clear plastic spoon.

It's a lot more robust than the flimsy ones you get a fast food places. It's clear because that's just what we had in the house.

A spoon and a 1" foam brush work great, so I've never investigated a ballast spreader.

 

Same here.  Used a cup at times.  Trimmed the foam brush so it was the width between the tails.

[peahrens]

Pruitt

I use a good quality clear plastic spoon.

It's a lot more robust than the flimsy ones you get a fast food places. It's clear because that's just what we had in the house.

A spoon and a 1" foam brush work great, so I've never investigated a ballast spreader.

 

Same here.  Used a cup st times.  Trimmed the foam brush so it was the width between the tails.