rrinker Why not? It's thin, lot less wasted space than using rock wool. And I only need light insulation, despite the cold, AND witht he heat shut off, the basement is still toasty warm. And it doesn't get hot in the summer. --Randy
Why not? It's thin, lot less wasted space than using rock wool. And I only need light insulation, despite the cold, AND witht he heat shut off, the basement is still toasty warm. And it doesn't get hot in the summer.
--Randy
But it always has voids between it and the framing. I don't know how thick your framing is, but even R11 fiberglass would provide plenty of insulation in a basement.
Sheldon
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker As they work on my basement, I am reminded again why I think Liquid Nails is absolute JUNK. Extruded foam insulation is being used, and they are using the foam safe Liquid Nails for Proejcts to adhere the foam panels to the block walls of my basement - well, trying to anyway. Most of it is not stickign AT ALL. This is exactly my experience using it years ago to build a test layout, I took to sections of 2x8 extruded foam, and used Liquid Nails for Projects to glue the two together, and to some supporting boards to hold them together. Once it set - it all just popped apart. And their 'regular' product as well, not for use of foam because it will eat it - I used it to attach a new toilet paper holder in the bathroom of that house. Let it set up for a week. Stuck in a roll of toilet paper - and the light spring in the tube popped the end pieces right off the wall. All surfaces were cleaned, tried again, waited TWO weeks - same thing. The LAST brand I'll ever buy for this sort of thing - either the foam safe or for other uses with the standard construction adhesive. Amazing how poor it worked. --Randy
As they work on my basement, I am reminded again why I think Liquid Nails is absolute JUNK. Extruded foam insulation is being used, and they are using the foam safe Liquid Nails for Proejcts to adhere the foam panels to the block walls of my basement - well, trying to anyway. Most of it is not stickign AT ALL.
This is exactly my experience using it years ago to build a test layout, I took to sections of 2x8 extruded foam, and used Liquid Nails for Projects to glue the two together, and to some supporting boards to hold them together. Once it set - it all just popped apart.
And their 'regular' product as well, not for use of foam because it will eat it - I used it to attach a new toilet paper holder in the bathroom of that house. Let it set up for a week. Stuck in a roll of toilet paper - and the light spring in the tube popped the end pieces right off the wall. All surfaces were cleaned, tried again, waited TWO weeks - same thing.
The LAST brand I'll ever buy for this sort of thing - either the foam safe or for other uses with the standard construction adhesive. Amazing how poor it worked.
Why are they using rigid foam insulation?
York1 rrinker Extruded foam insulation is being used, and they are using the foam safe Liquid Nails for Proejcts to adhere the foam panels to the block walls of my basement - well, trying to anyway. Most of it is not stickign AT ALL. Randy, I have block walls in my basement with foam and then drywall over it all. I'm not sure why sticking the foam to the block is such a big deal. My entire basement is framed with 2 x 3 lumber. There is a two-inch and a one-inch foam panel sandwiched together. The foam panels sit between these studs. The studs are attached to the concrete basement floor and the ceiling (first floor floor joists). None of the foam was glued into place. It was set between the studs and the drywall went over it. Unless you're not drywalling the walls, I don't see any advantage to having the foam glued to the block. Since I'm not an expert, I could be completely wrong about this, so please be kind to me if I am.
rrinker Extruded foam insulation is being used, and they are using the foam safe Liquid Nails for Proejcts to adhere the foam panels to the block walls of my basement - well, trying to anyway. Most of it is not stickign AT ALL.
Randy, I have block walls in my basement with foam and then drywall over it all.
I'm not sure why sticking the foam to the block is such a big deal.
My entire basement is framed with 2 x 3 lumber. There is a two-inch and a one-inch foam panel sandwiched together. The foam panels sit between these studs. The studs are attached to the concrete basement floor and the ceiling (first floor floor joists).
None of the foam was glued into place. It was set between the studs and the drywall went over it.
Unless you're not drywalling the walls, I don't see any advantage to having the foam glued to the block.
Since I'm not an expert, I could be completely wrong about this, so please be kind to me if I am.
Reading again. Yes. Building finished walls along a concrete basement wall would not involve attaching anything to the basement wall (as mentioned, they are not flat anyway). The top plate attaches to the rafters and the pressure treated bottom plate gets fired into the floor, then insulation in between the studs. Much of the time its simply fiberglass batten.
I'm sure Randy and his contractor must be doing some other prep work first?
- Douglas
BATMAN I used PL300
Plus one!
Terry
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
rrinkerExtruded foam insulation is being used, and they are using the foam safe Liquid Nails for Proejcts to adhere the foam panels to the block walls of my basement - well, trying to anyway. Most of it is not stickign AT ALL.
York1 John
I asked my doctor if I gave up delicious food and all alcohol, would I live longer? He said, "No, but it will seem longer."
LePage, Randy.
I only use PL300. When I have plaster/hydrocal tunnel portals that I want to place here and there, erect on some cookie-cutter ply, I place a dollop of the PL300 under their column ends, stick them in place, prop them up to ensure they set vertical, and forget about it for about two days, sometimes more. It's stiff and taffy-like for days, even weeks, but after a couple of days the item will stay put.
Randy's talking about sticking the foam to a concrete masonry wall.
Robert's idea with the tile mastic is good. Might still need to be braced.
The problem with basement walls, no matter how good the mason or contractor is that built it, they are anything but a flat surface.
Real easy to glue foam to foam, foam to wood, masonite, etc., but not to a basement wall.
That's why I like the mechanical fasteners. Used them work alot to insulate the outside of foundation walls.
Mike.
My You Tube
Ket Patterson still uses it to glue his plywood fascia to the foam, but he also routers in a groove with real wood (glued with gorilla glue) into the foam, that he can nail to with a pneumatic air gun.
Foam to foam I've seen him use both gorilla glue and that spray foam. Gorilla glue both expands and need water as an activator. I'm not sure how would keep a sheet of insulation pressed to the concrete block. The foam also expands.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
ROBERT PETRICKTwo words: ceramic tile mastic.
.
That is three words, but you are still 100% correct.
I have built lots of Cosplay Props out of foam board, and tile mastic (like you use to attach tiles to a bathroom wall), holds completely durable.
It it will take the abuse of a Cosplay Prop, it will stand up to Model Railroad use.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Well, PL300 is made by Loctite, which has a very good reputation with their other products. Different company makes Liquid Nails products, so maybe PL300 works better. I just know I will never buy any Liquid Nails brand anything. PL300, if the opportunity arises, I may well try.
My previous layout was 2 layers of 2" extruded foam over a thin layer of plywood (for something to screw the switch motors to). I laminated this with yellow glue. Took forever to dry (because of the foam), but it stayed together - I cut the sections apart, movers tossed them in their truck, and then piled them up in my new basement. I went through all of them to remove the servos and controllers, and they got hauled to the junk man's truck, after sitting there stacked up for a few years. None of them was peeling apart, not between the foam layers, and not between the foam and plywood.
Two words: ceramic tile mastic.
I've had very good luck using it with rigid insulation (pink, white, and blue).
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
When I was ready to glue the foam to the open grid I used PL300. It said to push into place and pull off to let vent. I am glad I got it in the right spot the first time as it was not coming off to vent, no way, no how. 12 years later I either have to cut the wood or the foam to remove a bit as the PL is like cement.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Maybe they reformulated it?
Don't know about foam safe adhesives, but I had to undo a project someone else must have done years ago by using adhesives and I had to chip it off the concrete to remove it, and sometimes a bit of the concrete went with it.
I've learned many times over, that sticking something to a concrete, or concrete block was is ify, at best, no matter how dry and warm you think the wall may be.
Even after overnight bracing, it's still a long shot.
Your supposed to apply the adhesive, press the panel against the wall, then pull the panel back out a bit, let some of the solvent vent, and then restick, like contact cement.
Did they put furring strips/studs on the wall? or is the plan to install the insulation, than studs, more insulation, and drywall over it all?
They make a plastic anchor that works great. Use a hammer drill to drill the hole, usually 5/16", and drive in the anchor.
I've used these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasti-Grip-3-1-2-in-Plastic-Masonry-Fastener-HDPMF3500/302244947?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D22-G-D22-22_4_INSULATION-Generic-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D22-G-D22