KenBen,
.
I suggest you find, and make fit, Walthers/Shinohara #7 curved turnouts. Look for the new "DCC Friendly" versions.
I have used, and intend to use, #7 W/S turnouts with no problems up to heavy 4-8-2 locomotives. The radius measurements of these turnouts are pretty close to what you want. They should fit with your DCC wiring scheme just fine.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
EDIT:
I went back to my drawing and I missed it by eyeball. The track center line measures .038" toward the outside rail at the frog point.
The red line in the photo looks substantially sharper than the centerline through the inner curve.
Most report the Walthers curved #8 inner radius in the 28 to 30 inch range when checking it for actual radius vs. the reported 32 inches.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
dante The Walthers/Shinohara code 83 curved turnouts have curves that differ by 6, not 4. The larger curves are stated correctly. And the radii are true through the turnout. Trust me-I have many.
The Walthers/Shinohara code 83 curved turnouts have curves that differ by 6, not 4. The larger curves are stated correctly. And the radii are true through the turnout. Trust me-I have many.
Yep, which is why I labeled the radius in my posts as "nominal".
It is generally known the inner radius is smaller than is labeled, although figures reported seem to vary depending on who measures it. I haven't found the mis-reported inner radius to be an issue with fitting the turnouts into layouts I have designed an built in two past occasions either. It seems to be somewhat more of an academic thing.
The salient point here to the OP, kenben, is Walthers offered curved turnouts which are closest to his needs, and they can still be found on the secondary market.
Hello All,
Take a look at this thread...
DIY Flex Track
I used this method to modify a stock PECO curved turnout to fit my needs.
Pelle Søeborg used this method to modify turnouts on one of his layouts. This was the subject of a MR article, I cannot remember the exact issue.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
kenben Yes Iʻm looking at Walthers #6 curved turnouts. Wiring will be different than the electrofrog Peco turnouts. Everything is DCC on this layout..
Yes Iʻm looking at Walthers #6 curved turnouts. Wiring will be different than the electrofrog Peco turnouts. Everything is DCC on this layout..
If you can find a "DCC" ready version of the Walthers #6 curved, it will be the easiest to wire.
I believe the effect will be basically the same as the Peco electrofrog if you energize the frog - polarity can be controlled using an appropriate switch machine support that.
All of Walthers DC turnouts were similar to the Peco electrofrog - they had solid metal rail from the end right through to the frog. The DCC friendly versions still have a metal frog - but it is isolated as are the point rails from each other. The frog an still be made "live" or electrofrog as long as it is wired that way.
For what it's worth, I am planning to use mostly Peco electrofrog turnouts on my next layout, but in a few cases, I will be using DCC friendly Walthers #8 curve turnouts in places where the geometry fits best. I bought two of them last spring before the #8 curved Walthers DCC ready became much more difficult to find.
As RioGrande mentioned, the Walthers curved turnout is your best bet for a drop in fit, then you will need to adjust the tracks around it to fit.
I believe Walthers used to make these electrofrog, in the days before DCC was common, but I'm not sure. If so, they would probably only be available on ebay or something similar.
Currently produced product, which is much easier to find, is insulfrog, known as "For DCC or DC" on the Walthers packaging.
- Douglas
There is also the Fast Tracks build it yourself option! All you need is a copy of a scale drawing (don't use the original) of whatever custom turnout you need to build, glue the PC ties directly to the drawing copy, then shape, lay and solder your rails using an NMRA track gauge. I have done this with curved turnouts, wyes, and constant radius diverging route turnouts (to enter/exit a helix). It takes a little patience but is not all that difficult. Better yet, your rolling stock will roll through these turnouts better than they do through commercially made turnouts. Best yet, when someone points to your turnout and asks, "Who makes that?", your answer will be, "I do!"
Hornblower
kenben Iʻm using code 83 flex track and I know I can "fudge" on the actual radius. Just need something doable. All turnouts are electrofrog.
Iʻm using code 83 flex track and I know I can "fudge" on the actual radius. Just need something doable. All turnouts are electrofrog.
I've listed the code 83 Peco curved turnout specs, and they appear to be way out of what you are listing.
But if you don't have to have Peco 100%, I see Walthers code 83 curved #6 on fleabay.
Walthers #6 curved are nomially 24" outer and 20" inner radius. People have reported measuring the inner is really a bit less, closer to 19 or less inches.
Basically the point is Walthers curved turnouts have inner and outer radii that a much closer together, nominally 4" apart. Peco, OTOH, have inner/outer radii which are much more different, such as the code 83 #7 curved (outer 60", inner 36"), which is way-off from what you are trying for.
RE: Walthers #6 curved, it appears it is referred to as #6 1/2 curved but the specs seem to be same, 24 outer, 20 inner (nominal).
The Walthers #7 should be nominal 28 outer and 24 inner radius if that is also useeful.
For what it's worth, Walthers has manufactured turnouts listed somethings as DC type but around 15-20 years ago, they retooled and offered what they labeled as DCC friendly versions. They have the frog isolated and the point rails are isolated from each other. If you run DCC, that may be useful for you. OTOH, some DCC hobbyists have reported using the older "DC" versions on DCC layouts with no issues.
There is no reason you shouldn't be able to use non-Peco turnouts if they fit the need. I mix brands where needed and have no issues.
kenbenIʻm building my first HO layout using Peco track and I need to fine the right curved turnouts for it. Two are switching in from a 24" radius to a 22" radius and one switching out from a 22" radius to a 24" radius
No curved turnout matches a true curve exactly because of the points and frog. So you can't "drop-in" a curved turnout and have it fit exactly in a 24" radius curve, if that's what you are trying to do.
Instead, you would need to design the the track plan around the curved turnout. This would be easiest with flex track.
Good luck with your layout.
Byron
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
kenben Iʻm building my first HO layout using Peco track and I need to fine the right curved turnouts for it. Two are switching in from a 24" radius to a 22" radius and one switching out from a 22" radius to a 24" radius. Most likely all 3 are the same except for left and right switching. What and where can I find these electrofrog curved turnouts? What are my options? THX
Iʻm building my first HO layout using Peco track and I need to fine the right curved turnouts for it. Two are switching in from a 24" radius to a 22" radius and one switching out from a 22" radius to a 24" radius. Most likely all 3 are the same except for left and right switching. What and where can I find these electrofrog curved turnouts? What are my options?
THX
- Inside Radius: 17-1/4" (43.8cm)
- Outside Radius: 19-7/8"
- Inside radius 30"
- Outside radius 60"
- Inside radius 36"
Looks like neither are in the range you are looking for. Maybe you want to hunt for Walthers Shinohara #6 on eBay - they are code 83. Shinohara for code 100.
Here's an option if you're using Peco Code 100.
https://peco-uk.com/collections/turn-out-crossing-plans?page=2
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."