I was a bit on the fence but then my turnouts are not DCC friendly being the switch points are suposed to power the frog, but do a bad job, if at all.
rrebellHow is that working for you, the spdt switch for the frog as I am about to do that as a temporary measure?
It works great.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Medina1128 JoeinPa and Guy, thanks for the information. I had some, but couldn't remember the size. I insert the screw from the bottom, then mark where the screw hits the roadbed, and drill a 1/8" hole. I then solder a feeder wire to the screw head and pull the wire through the hole. Until I install Tortoise switch machines, I power the frog with a SPDT mini toggle switch.
JoeinPa and Guy, thanks for the information. I had some, but couldn't remember the size. I insert the screw from the bottom, then mark where the screw hits the roadbed, and drill a 1/8" hole. I then solder a feeder wire to the screw head and pull the wire through the hole. Until I install Tortoise switch machines, I power the frog with a SPDT mini toggle switch.
Powered Frogs? Powered Frogs?
LION uses 48 wheel pick up and doesn't even bother to power the switches!
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
For good conducting glue, you will spend about $75 for something with a 6 month shelflife!
1-72 screws work well for me. On occasion, I have used a 0-80 nut and bolt combination but that was for a turnout that wasn't installed yet.
Joe
1-72 screws according to advices given in this thread (Electrnics and DCC) Powering Atlas turnout frog.
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/t/253180.aspx
Guy
Modeling CNR in the 50's
Since it has been mentioned about using a screw to make the connection to Atlas frogs, does anyone have the screw size handy?
I would be very cautious about trying to put much current through a conductive adhesive. In my case, the frog might be in the circuit with a couple of big, power-hog vertical traction motors if one of my EF-motors was crossing it. Read that as, well in excess of one amp at 12VDC.
As others have said, the Atlas frog is set up for a screw connection. Installing that screw is the only way I would fly.
Actually I hand-lay all my turnouts, and all of them have soldered rail drops. Atlas doesn't meet my specifications for appearance or reliability.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Solder will not stick reliably if at all to the Atlas metal frogs. You will need to put a small screw through the hole in the side of the frog and solder your wire to that. MR's David Popp found this out in a recent MRVP. Trying to use an adhesive to attach the wire is asking for trouble.
wdcrvr:
There is another current thread on this topic. Apparently soldering to the frog is not the answer:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/p/253180/2828378.aspx#2828378
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I have a feeling this topic will bring opposing opinions to the floor.
I am having extreme difficulty in trying to solder 22 ga copper wire to the frogs of my atlas ho turnouts. I am installing switch controls using three-way electrical outlets as shown in an MR article. This requires a lead to the frog if you want the frog powered alternately when the switch is thrown. Solder sticks fine to the wire, not so great sticking to the frog material. It's been hit and miss and I have destroyed a couple of turnouts in the process. Even when it is successful I can't really figure out what I did different to make it work that time.
So, I am wondering about possibly using a product called Wire Glue which is supposed to be a electrically conductive adhesive. Looking for pros, cons, advice,warnings, etc.
Let 'er rip!
Thanks
wdcrvr