I use Peco nails, (very small and sharp) into pre drilled holes in the middle. After painting and ballasting they are really hard to see. Doug
There really is NO Best way as each type of sub-base has better ways of attaching the track.
Foam sub-base - tends to work better with Latex Caulk - Reason - Foam won't hold short track nails and white glue will work but is way too slow to dry.
Homasote sub-base - track nails are easy to use and hold great - will also work well with Latex caulk. Nails are quick and fast. Can run trains right after laying the track.
Plywood sub-base - really hard to use track nails (needs drilled for each nail) - works well with Latex caulk.
Nails are quick to use and the track is easily pulled up with no track or turnouts destroyed due to a glue or caulk!
Latex Caulk is quick to use but there is a drying time needed which requires the track be weighted down until dry. Fairly easy to lift the track but can sometimes require removing bits of the Latex Caulk that remains stuck to the ties.
Being real careful in spreading the thin coat of Latex will eliminate this but how many REALLY will spend the time to do the job properly?
Good old White Glue will work but is not that great in holding plastic ties.
I have even used Latex Paint - again a thin coat and lay the track into the paint - weights are needed to hold it down until dry - longer drying time than Latex aulk.
In making changes to the trackwork - Latex caulk and White Glue is going to be the harder to do in compairson to the Track Nails.
NOW - if the track is ballasted - there is really no need for either method as the Ballast will hold the track in place. I remove the track Nails and reuse them elsewhere.
Every method has its plus and minus - try them all and see which one YOU like!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Just wanted to post a quick upate. I bought a tube of the Alex DAP Plus stuff recommended by some people and did a quick test with a small piece of sectional track. I attached a piece of cork roadbed (with glue) to a cut 2x4 I had lying around. Once that was dry, I used a thin layer of the caulk on top, and set the track on it.
The next day the caulk was completely clear and the track was pretty secure on there - although with a decent amount of force I probably could have ripped it off. I then took a putty knife and slid it under the track to see if I could easily get it up if I wanted. The track came up beautifully, and with no residue or anything on the bottom.
So, I feel confident now in using this method, because if I need to redo any sections, I see I can easily get the track back up again. Will also avoid any kinks or sagging I could get by using nails accidentally.
I think they key to this method is to use a lot less caulk than you think you need. A very thin layer seems to be enough.
Thanks everyone for your input.
H
hominamad Just wanted to post a quick upate. I bought a tube of the Alex DAP Plus stuff recommended by some people and did a quick test with a small piece of sectional track. I attached a piece of cork roadbed (with glue) to a cut 2x4 I had lying around. Once that was dry, I used a thin layer of the caulk on top, and set the track on it. The next day the caulk was completely clear and the track was pretty secure on there - although with a decent amount of force I probably could have ripped it off. I then took a putty knife and slid it under the track to see if I could easily get it up if I wanted. The track came up beautifully, and with no residue or anything on the bottom. So, I feel confident now in using this method, because if I need to redo any sections, I see I can easily get the track back up again. Will also avoid any kinks or sagging I could get by using nails accidentally. I think they key to this method is to use a lot less caulk than you think you need. A very thin layer seems to be enough. Thanks everyone for your input. H
I use diluted elmers white glue, simply because it is NOT permanent. I simply use a spritz water bottle to spray the dried and secured track, and the glue reactivates. I can easily shift the track/roadbed into slightly different angles. Oftentimes, the glue simply dries again and there is no need to apply more. Entire sections of flex track can be removed and easily washed in soapy water if you want.
I prefer glue over caulk for this purpose, since my experince with caulk suggests its harder to reactivate and adjust the track after it has dried. And its harder to wash off if you go that far.
Nails? Seems more labor intensive to me, especially if you want to move both the track and roadbed....but I've not used nails for track in a long time and I'm just recalling from memory.
- Douglas
I remember all those layouts I built with track nails, and also nailing the cork to the plywood. And I can't imagine going back to doing it that way. Yes, I used small spikes, and had a spike tool to keep from accidently hammering the railhead. But I also remember so much damaged track trying to reuse things. In those days I used a lot of sectional track - good thing each piece had multiple holes, because inevitably I'd have a tie nearly ripped out from trying to pry up each section. When i reused it, I just used one of the other holes and left the broken out hole unfilled with a spike.
The one exception was one the N scale layout I built on a piece of Homasote. Well, sure was easy to get the cork nailed to it, and the track nailed in that. It ALSO was ridiclously easy to salvage the track - usually all I had to do was pull up a little bit on it and it pulled out the spikes. Sliding a putty knife under the cork, i could pop up thos enails ad well and save the cork. I guess my definition of "holding power" is different than others - for something to have "holding power" to me, it has to be mor elike nails in playwood - really hard to get out. Maybe the people who say Homasote has great spike holding power mean it has 'good enough' spike holding power, with the benefit of it being easy to drive them in.
These days, I'm all about the cheak latex caulk. I don;t use any special stuff that says 'adhesive' or actual adhesives like PL or Liquid Nails. Sticks cork to foam or wood, stick track to cork while still allowing the track to be pulled up without damage, doesn;t attack foam, can be used to stack piece of foam for scenery, can stick switch motors to the bottom of the layout - million and one uses.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
hominamadI think they key to this method is to use a lot less caulk than you think you need. A very thin layer seems to be enough.
I have often said pulling up caulked track should feel like pulling a fridge magnet off the fridge, if not you used too much caulk. I have not had to pull much track up that I have used caulk on, as this is the first layout I have used caulk on. The track I did pull up had no residue on it and was quickly reused.
Like many have said, once the ballasting is done all bets are off, however since watching the lastest batch of videos with the new improved cameras, those track nails sure stick out. If you are going for realism the nails must go. In the past when I have tried to pull out nails after glueing down the ballast, I found the nails were often glued in.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
BATMAN The one thing that bugs me is when people insist that their way is best and have never tried any other methods of doing things. They are not speaking from experience and seem to be just resisting change. Some people can't accept change.
The one thing that bugs me is when people insist that their way is best and have never tried any other methods of doing things. They are not speaking from experience and seem to be just resisting change. Some people can't accept change.
Yup, I hear you. Kind of like telling someone the best way to hold their hammer to drive a nail!
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org