Wayne,
First off, great modeling, as usual.
I was all set to use the 0.030" Evergreen sheet until you posted. Now, I am not sure.
As you know, that is the bridge tender's house that I plan to model on the lift bridge.
I may just order 0.030" and 0.040" and see which looks better compared to the prototype.
Rich
Alton Junction
Rich, the reason that the sheets aren't designated by scale is because there is a variety of corrugation widths available for the real sheets.Your query prompted me to check my supply of building materials, and I did find a mostly-used-up package of Evergreen corrugated siding. That then prompted me to wonder what the heck I had built from it, as I usually use the Campbell sheets. After wandering around the layout room for about 15 minutes , I finally found the structure. If you click twice on the photo, it should give you an enlargement which will better-show the corrugations:
The original packaging shows it to be Evergreen 4526, with .040" spacing.
The roof was done with Campbell sheets, applied over a .060" sheet styrene roof deck:
Wayne
You can also make your own by pressing tin foil against a ribbon cable with your thumb. Found this out after I bought the plastic sheets. Tried it and they looked OK, may use the pieces for a scrap load and pieces at a building supply store.
Have fun,
Richard
I have thought about it.
Check out this link where the guy used a paper crimper to simulate corrugated metal siding with tin foil
http://www.scalemodelplans.com/smp/tutorials/metal_siding.html
Have you thought of making your own corrugated iron out of tin foil. Just press it onto a Mill *** file then stick it to cardboard. The way I make N scale fencing is to use a piece of Structural Pine which in Aust has fine grooves cut into it which are perfect for rubbing foil paper onto and cutting into whatever size/shape you want. I use white glue to stick it onto cardboard and once dry paint it they way I want.
The file makes a finer corrugation than the timber.
Steve
Redore Most commercial and industrial buildings I've seen, including National Steel's Quonset Huts used the 2 1/2 inch courrigations. The 1 1/4 inch corrugations were more apt to be used on farm buildings and the like. The hold down screws went on the peaks to minimize leaks.
Most commercial and industrial buildings I've seen, including National Steel's Quonset Huts used the 2 1/2 inch courrigations. The 1 1/4 inch corrugations were more apt to be used on farm buildings and the like.
The hold down screws went on the peaks to minimize leaks.
That is very helpful, thanks.
gandydancer19 That is because the Evergreen metal siding is metal siding and not corrugated siding.
That is because the Evergreen metal siding is metal siding and not corrugated siding.
Evergreen calls it corrugated metal siding.
And, I just found the HAER (Historical American Engineering Record) which indicates that the bridge tender's cabin is made of corrugated metal siding and a gable roof.
Elmer, thanks, that helps a lot.
I like your idea about buying the two smallest sizes and that is what I will do.
That is because the Evergreen metal siding is metal siding and not corrugated siding. Think of this siding as made of small boxes. The raised box can be a different size that the space between them.
However, you can use this material to simulate corrugated siding. Just use the smaller sizes. I would start by getting a pack of the two smallest sizes and pick the one that works best for you. I keep a stock of Evergreen strips and sheets on hand for my projects. I recently used one of the smaller sizes to represent corrugated siding and from a distance you can't tell that it isn't corrugated, particularly after it's been painted. (I just looked and it is all gone and not replaced yet.)
For getting the actual size right, you have to measure it. A digital caliper is the way to go. Look at the sheet posted by Dschmitt and look at the corrugation dimensions. They range from 1 ¼ to 2 ½ inches between them. Measure that on a scale ruler, then measure that with your digital calipers and you get the size in thousandths. Then you can make a choice. I would use the grove spacing as the size.
I hope this helps.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Here is my dilemma.
Evergreen Scale makes the corrugated metal sheet in six sizes and picking the right size is what confuses me. I wish the sizes were just marked N, HO, etc. I am modeling in HO.
http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/Sheets.htm#Corrugated
Scroll down the page to Corrugated Metal Siding
I recently did an HO shed roof with corrigated roofing. I bought both HO and N size (as marked on the package). When I got the pieces next to the building, the HO seemed much to large for the shed. I like the looks of the N on the HO building. I would think it would look large on an N scale building. To indicate the sheet edges I just drew in the lines with a pencil, I used a #2, but I think I would try to find a harder pencil next time.
Before the 1960's or 70's, most buildings that had metal siding used corrugated siding of iron or steel. This siding type and size was fairly standard and is still sold today. They even make it in fiberglass. Around the 1970's or so, the 'new' type of metal siding came out. It had larger spaces and was flatter in shape. The Rix metal building kits simulate this type of siding.
The building that you want to model represents an older type of building that would use corrugated metal for the siding and roof. Campbell scale models also makes this type of siding in small metal strip sheets for HO. (Or at least they used to.) I think Micro-Mark also has some corrugated siding in metal sheets.
My thought is that if you were modeling N scale you would need to use the smallest spacing so if you're into HO I'd try the next size.
That's the way I selected my ballast and it worked for that.
Bob
Don't Ever Give Up
Wow, that is pretty cool.
Thanks for that, dschmitt, I need to study it more, but that should really help.
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
Here is a photo of the machine shed that I am trying to model. Can you tell anything by merely looking at it regarding groove spacing and rib widths?
The best way is to research the different sizes of siding and where they were used. The other way is to just use what looks good to you. Because I am not a scale nut, the second way is usually what I do.
This stuff is 0.040" thick styrene, and it comes in a variety of groove spacing and rib widths.
How do you decided which variety to use in modeling a small shed?