I've used two-part high gloss epoxy resin:
and high gloss clear varnish:
The varnish - Estapol Clear - lasted 6 years before I dismantled the layout, and if it yellowed at all it was hard to detect.
Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0
PRR Akron Tug
I didn’t get a chance to add waves and ripples yet but the Polyurethane works good.
Doc
I use a product called "Triple Thick" glue. It spreads easily and doesn't run like thin material. I use a hand hair dryer to shape the water to make waves etc. It can be found at Hobby Lobby or Michaels. However, pouring it too thick will cause it to turn white and it takes several weeks for it to dry clear. I also use it for making waterfalls.
Dennis
Envirotex Lite, a two-part epoxy, available from craft stores:
Like any"water" product, though, the secret is all in preparing the base and adding scenery around the lake or stream later.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
onecrazytrain Has anyone ever used anything instead of Realistic Water on their layout? I have some left over Poly ( http://www.minwax.com/products/hardwood_floor_finishing/water_based_polyurethane_for_floors.html ) from when I redid my floors and was looking at maybe using it for a lake?
Has anyone ever used anything instead of Realistic Water on their layout? I have some left over Poly ( http://www.minwax.com/products/hardwood_floor_finishing/water_based_polyurethane_for_floors.html ) from when I redid my floors and was looking at maybe using it for a lake?
Yeah, I used semi-realistic water or, as it's more commonly known, water-based high gloss clear urethane.
While mine was from Varathane, any brand should work equally well. The riverbed is well-supported 3/16" sheathing plywood. After spraying it with "wet" water, I applied a coat of Durabond 90 patching plaster, "working" it as required with drywall knives. It's about 1/8" thick in the two river scenes shown below. After the plaster had fully cured (it hardens in about 90 minutes, but I left it a day or two), I painted it with flat interior latex paint, applied un-thinned with a cheap 2" brush. After a couple of days, I added the white-water effects using a 3/4" brush and some PollyScale Reefer White. After that had dried, the surface got three coats of the urethane, applied with a 2" brush and with the recommended time between coats.
The finish is very tough, and the camera is often sitting on the surface when taking pictures. No issues so far with cracking, yellowing, or other problems and even the raised waves, etc. are very durable. It's been in place for several years.
Wayne
You can use Mod Podge or some other gloss medium, also in several thin layers at a time. Or, try a two-part epoxy usually found in the paints and finishes section.
Crandell
I've used waterbased clear urethane normally used on furniture. Not too deep however, maybe 1//8"