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Alternative to Realistic Water

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  • Member since
    January 2011
  • From: Pennsylvania
  • 40 posts
Alternative to Realistic Water
Posted by onecrazytrain on Sunday, February 6, 2011 1:01 PM

Has anyone ever used anything instead of Realistic Water on their layout? I have some left over Poly ( http://www.minwax.com/products/hardwood_floor_finishing/water_based_polyurethane_for_floors.html  ) from when I redid my floors and was looking at maybe using it for a lake?

  • Member since
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  • From: South Carolina
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Posted by Train Modeler on Sunday, February 6, 2011 1:34 PM

I've used waterbased clear urethane normally used on furniture.   Not too deep however, maybe 1//8"

  • Member since
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  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
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Posted by selector on Sunday, February 6, 2011 2:02 PM

You can use Mod Podge or some other gloss medium, also in several thin layers at a time.  Or, try a two-part epoxy usually found in the paints and finishes section.

Crandell

  • Member since
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  • From: Canada, eh?
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Posted by doctorwayne on Sunday, February 6, 2011 4:15 PM

onecrazytrain

Has anyone ever used anything instead of Realistic Water on their layout? I have some left over Poly ( http://www.minwax.com/products/hardwood_floor_finishing/water_based_polyurethane_for_floors.html  ) from when I redid my floors and was looking at maybe using it for a lake?

 

Yeah, I used semi-realistic water Smile, Wink & Grin or, as it's more commonly known, water-based high gloss clear urethane.

While mine was from Varathane, any brand should work equally well.  The riverbed is well-supported 3/16" sheathing plywood.  After spraying it with "wet" water, I applied a coat of Durabond 90 patching plaster, "working" it as required with drywall knives.  It's about 1/8" thick in the two river scenes shown below.  After the plaster had fully cured (it hardens in about 90 minutes, but I left it a day or two), I painted it with flat interior latex paint, applied un-thinned with a cheap 2" brush.  After a couple of days, I added the white-water effects using a 3/4" brush and some PollyScale Reefer White.  After that had dried, the surface got three coats of the urethane, applied with a 2" brush and with the recommended time between coats.

The finish is very tough, and the camera is often sitting on the surface when taking pictures.  No issues so far with cracking, yellowing, or other problems and even the raised waves, etc. are very durable.  It's been in place for several years.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wayne

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
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Posted by MisterBeasley on Sunday, February 6, 2011 7:24 PM

Envirotex Lite, a two-part epoxy, available from craft stores:

Like any"water" product, though, the secret is all in preparing the base and adding scenery around the lake or stream later.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
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  • From: Ankeny IA 50021
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Posted by Jazman49 on Monday, February 7, 2011 11:16 AM

I use a product called "Triple Thick" glue. It spreads easily and doesn't run like thin material. I use a hand hair dryer to shape the water to make waves etc. It can be found at Hobby Lobby or Michaels. However, pouring it too thick will cause it to turn white and it takes several weeks for it to dry clear. I also use it for making waterfalls.

Dennis

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: New Jersey, US
  • 379 posts
Posted by topcopdoc on Monday, February 7, 2011 1:59 PM

PRR Akron Tug

 

I didn’t get a chance to add waves and ripples yet but the Polyurethane works good.

 

Doc

Pennsylvania Railroad The Standard Railroad of the World
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  • From: Brisbane, Australia
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Posted by mikelhh on Monday, February 7, 2011 4:52 PM

 I've used two-part high gloss epoxy resin:

and high gloss clear varnish:

The varnish - Estapol Clear - lasted 6 years before I dismantled the layout, and if it yellowed at all it was hard to detect.

Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0

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