Laying track, how often to solder

[woodman]

I am getting ready to lay my track, HO code 100, Atlas. Do I solder each and every joint and how often do I attach feeder wires to the track. Do I do this for every section or every 2-3 or more sections.

[wabash2800]

The general rule that I use and have come across from other sources is to solder rail joiners only on curves and allow the other rails to creep with the fluctuation of temperature and humidity. Generally, the wood benchwork and sub roadbed will expand in the summer and contract in the winter. You can minimize this by keeping the humidity down. I use a dehumidifier in all seasons other than in the winter. I also monitor the humidity and try to keep it about 50%.

For curves, if you use flex track like that made by Atlas, make sure the sliding rails are all on the same side (preferably inside) and solder a couple of sections together before you lay the track.

If you are using DCC (and sound)  it is more important than ever to solder feeders often. I do every piece of track even those soldered  at the rail joiners. I use powered, gapped frogs on my hand built Fast Tracks turnouts and also solder feeders to the stock rails (that also provide the same polarity on the points) and the rails beyond the frog as not to have to rely on power from track attached to the turnout on both ends.

[richhotrain]

It would be ideal to solder every rail joint, but then you inhibit expansion and contraction of the rails.

A sure fire alternative is to avoid soldering rail joints altogether.  Instead, solder a feeder wire to the bottom of each rail for each piece of track.

But, hey, I don't follow my own advice.  I just solder the rail joints on curves and drop feeders every 6 feet everywhere else.

Rich

[Motley]

Yep like Rich, I also solder each and every joint. I've had no problems with electrical conductivity. And when you solder every joint, you don't need as many feeder wires. I have feeders about every 8' to 10'.

I just drill small holes next to the outside rails. I solder the feeder wires to the outside rail. And then I close the hole with latex caulk.

[Train Modeler]

I solder joints on curves and make sure the inside and outside rails are not near the same tie location, but seperated by a couple of inches.     I don't solder every joint as expansion/contraction are necessary.      Definitely solder joints where access in the future may be difficult, such as tunnels, bridges, etc.  

I have used DCC for about 5 years with feeders about every 15 feet and have not had any problems.    Of course going through turnouts you may have more, depends on how you want your power routed and I do it differently depending on the turnout I use and what it is connected to track wise.     

Richard

[CraigN]

The rule of thumb- Don't rely on rail joiners to conduct electricity.

That being said, many will solder all or most joints and drop feeders every so many feet.

I personally don't solder any rail joiners, I leave small gaps for expansion and contraction .

I solder feeders to each section of track. I use more wire that way but that is my choice.

Neither way is wrong so you choose.

Craig

[selector]

The logically most efficient way to do this is to only use feeders between any two lengths of flex track, and leave a gap at each end...unless you really should use one at either end of that soldered length.  A curve would be an example.

But, as the schematic below suggests, you minimize soldering and you maximize electrical feed by soldering two and soldering a feeder to that joiner at the same time.  That way, the power only ever has to run a maximimum of three feet along the rails.   Because you have so many sliding joiners or gaps, you allow for expansion.

=======0===========X============0============X============0=============X=====

The"0"s are the gaps, or they could represent non-fed joiners....your choice as seems best, and the X's are the soldered joiners to which a feeder has also been soldered.

Crandell

[donhalshanks]

I hand laid my track and soldered feeders to every run of rail, on the outside of the rail.  I did not solder the joiners, and left a small gap.

Hal

[doctorwayne]

Obviously a lot of ways to do this.  

I solder all rail joiners and use only the single pair of wires coming off the power source - no bus wire, no feeders, no problems in over 15 years. 

My layout is in an unheated basement, with about 200' of mainline in-service.

[Hamltnblue]

I solder feeders on each section and leave gaps between some of the rails after having a section buckle a few years back.  At a minimum I would avoid soldering turnouts which allows you to salvage them if you rebuild or make changes.

[Texas Zepher]

woodman

I am getting ready to lay my track, HO code 100, Atlas. Do I solder each and every joint and how often do I attach feeder wires to the track. Do I do this for every section or every 2-3 or more sections.

  When you say section, does that mean you are using sectional track (9" pieces) or do you mean 3 foot long flex track "sections". 

I never solder sectional track, and I only solder flex track on a curve.  I also make certain the two rails of a piece of flex track do not end up directly across from each other on a curve (as train modeler above).  That is I stagger the rail ends on the inside and outside rails.  That helps prevent kinks.

One feeder per six feet of track should be plenty.  That is if you put power to every other set of rail joiners it works out pretty good (as Selector above).  That way the greatest distance a train loco can be from a power supply is 3 feet.

[TerryJ]

I solder every joint and have feeders about every 6 feet or so. Haven't had any expansion/contraction issues yet, but that can occur.

[Hamltnblue]

Woodman, how large a layout do you have?  Also don't forget to run buss wire if longer than 4x8.

[woodman]

My layout is 13' X 15', in a sort of a donut shape, with a bridge opening to gain access to the center. It is not against the wall at any point, due to needing access to waterpipes, elect, etc. Just envision a free standing rectangle with the center being open.

[Hamltnblue]

That's a decent sized layout.  I would start by running a pair of 12 gauge wires for the buss.  All track feeders will connect to it.  Then solder feeder wires onto the underside or outside rails. The feeders can be around 22 gauge.  From there the feeders get connected to the buss wires.  If the layout is already built I'd add them over time, starting with the farthest end and breaking sections in half until all is covered.  Optimum is a feeder for each flex section. Some say 6 feet.  If using snap track try not to have more than 1 set of joiners between feeders. Over time they will slowly break down and give you random trouble.

 

[Timboy]

I let my loci do the talking.  If it - and I mean mean the most cantankerous one that is mechanically sound - runs nicely around, then mission accomplished.  If not, then I do a drop-down where it slows down.  Some areas get a drop-down every section; some not so much.  Some guys use a meter and a "standard" loco.  I've never been able to get a steady reading with a meter and I figure that my RR is only as good as it's worst-running loco, which is why I do it the more pragmatic way.  Either way, the object is a consistent speed.  What better way to get it than through observation?  Oh, and sometimes it's not voltage.  Sometimes it's trackage.

Regards,

Timboy 

[desertdog]

Every expansion problem I have ever seen (i.e. kinking track) had to do with layout construction materials, not the rail itself.   Use plywood or pink foam and you will have no problems, regardless of whether the layout is in a cold attic, or a hot desert garage like mine.  I solder the joiners between every section of rail, including turnouts.  I connect feeders to every section, as well, including the stock rails of turnouts.  There are no dead sections or power losses.  

If you are still worried about expansion and contraction (which you need not be), the insulation gaps on your turnouts will more than compensate for the minute changes in rail caused by temperature.  

 

John Timm

[gopherbroke]

Why is it important to make sure the sliding rails are all on the same side? I have connected my track and pinned it down to ensure that all my connections are good and I was going to start gluing my track down to the cork roadbed this weekend, and now saw your post on the sliding rails, so not too late for met to correct.

Very helpful feedback.

Thank you.

[doctorwayne]

I didn't worry about on which side the sliding rail was located.  You can trim off the excess if you wish, or simply thread the extra rail into the ties of the next section.  It's good practice to stagger the joints so those in both rails don't occur at exactly the same spot, but it makes little difference whether they're offset by an inch or by a foot.

 

Wayne

[Jouard1]

I'm new here in need of help.  im  my first HO RAILROAD IN MY GARAGE 6' x 12'.  I unfortunately did solder all Kato track pieces except 10 turnouts and most yard track.  After reading posts, I realize I needed to allow for expansion.  Suggestions please, thank you in advance

 

[carl425]

gopherbroke

Why is it important to make sure the sliding rails are all on the same side?

The sliding rail goes on the inside of the curve.  If you have curves in both directions, then they won't all be on the same side.

You put them on the inside of the curve so that the flexing causes the unconnected ties to come together rather than spreading apart.  This matches prototype practice where they have a standard for maximum tie spacing.  It is acceptable to have the ties closer together than the maximum, but it is not acceptable to have them farther apart than maximum.

[riogrande5761]

Since I have dealt with the effects of expansion and contraction, I only solder a few joints on curves to prevent kinking, which I have noticed even on very experienced modelers layouts btw.

A good compromise to soldering every joint and risk expansion/contraction issues - solder a feeder to every rail joiner at the bottom and you have power to all joints.  If power doesn't get through at one of them to a rail, it should feed from the other side - rails can float in the joiners to expand and contract as much as needed and you should have good power through out that way.

[Doughless]

I install unsoldered power feeding joiners about every 12 feet, and solder the sections in between. I never end up with exactly three foot lengths by the time I install turnouts.   I apply power feeders to all three legs of turnouts. 

[fieryturbo]

Not necessarily related to OP's post, but I'm running DCC, and I'll be laying down all my track soon. Can I just drill holes in the layout and run feeder wires from every piece of track, then run them to terminal blocks? It seems like a lot less of a pain than to solder joiners.

 

If I have to sit at my work desk for an hour to attach solder to track where I'm sitting comfortably, that's way better than trying to solder joiners on a layout that's already in place.

[BroadwayLion]

LIONS solder every rail joiner, but then him has lots of other gaps to provide expansion.

If track must be moved / removed, cut the rail joiner with a motor tool and then use the solder iron to remove the peices from the rail.

A DC layout such as mine is not so fussy about having so many feeders as a DCC layout would require. LION connects the left rail to a hard ground, The right rail gets is power from the supply, +12v dc = forward movement, -12v dc = reverse movement. LION has no reverse posibilites on layout of him, following train is only 180 seconds behind its leader.

LION introduces power between the stations. Tracks and stations are gapped to control the movement of the trains. Him not run trains. LPPs  in the motorman's compartment control the trains according to the signals and automation equipment. LION gets to run the entire railroad from the TOWER. Is tower operator, not motorman. Running Broadway Local is just as boring in North Dakota as it is in New York.

USE BUS WIRES not terminal blocks for your feeders, you ain't made of money, ewe know.

ROAR

[Jouard1]

You said add hims. I know you meant something else...I soldered all

[kasskaboose]

Besides DC/DCC you also have to consider how much time you want to devote for soldering.  I solder all of the curved ME code 83 track to avoid derailments.  Running feeder wires every 8-10 feet is suitable should you solder track.  Straight sections don't really need soldering.

[bing&kathy]

   As I start laying track I intend to have soldered joints in hard to reach places, tunnels etc. Every section in such locations fed. No soldering of switches. One end of rail joiners soldered allowing for expansion. At thesepoints feeder wire will jump from one rail the the next as in prototype track. Feed wires will be determined as I go but no more than six foot (or so) between feeds.

   Does this reflect a good practice or any other ideas are welcome.

[selector]

For bullet-proof joints in hidden places, or for places a pain to reach, try champhering, or beveling, the inside flange faces and the top bearing face of the rail heads where they meet, both heads.  See the diagramme below:

These angled surfaces will act as guides, not rough obstructive edges, as wheels move across the gap between them.

Also, consider soldering the feeders only to the soldered joiners.  I solder every second joiner, thus joining solidly two lengths of flex track.  As I do that, I solder a a flattened 22 gauge bared copper solid strand feeder wire jammed into the joiner inside the web of the rail.  Schematically, you can have positively fed tracks totalling six feet with just one pair of feeders inserted into a pair of soldered joiners.  At the far ends of each of these 'monolithic' segments are pairs of unsoldered joiners that will allow expansion and contraction seasonally.

It looks like this, with the "o" representing open or sliding joiners and an "x" intending a soldered joint with a feeder embedded.

=======o========x=========o=========x========

If you know how to solder a joint, you have an effective and efficient building process ensuring electrically functional track.  If your solders are iffy, then it doesn't matter if you solder feeders to every single length of flex...you'll still have problems here and there, especially if there are unsoldered joiners on either end.

[HObbyguy]

A related question- what is the thinking regarding isolating power districts?  My layout is now growing and I am debating whether it is worth creating seperate districts or not.  Before DCC it was necessary in order to run more than one train but what is the reasoning behind this now?  Adding a bunch of unnecessary insulated joiners or gaps doesn't make sense to me since they can be troublesome.

FWIW I've been soldering all connections on curves, but not on turnouts or bridge approaches, and I also leave some unsoldered joiners on straight runs.  No problems so far.