Its been about six weeks since I gleamed a test stretch of track on my garage layout. I live on a barrier island less than two blocks from the Gulf and while I enjoy the subtropical climate, it is not a DCC friendly environment. The gleamed section is still gleaming and I've had no contact problems over that section of rail- I'm happy with just those results. The verdict overall is positive at this juncture but there are some additional problems that will hold up a final verdict. I began this test in November and, with the onset of cooler weather, I don't get the relentless daily 15 mph sea breeze. Only had three days of our warmer weather SE winds since the test began. Despite the decline in airborne salt the grime on the untreated track was readily noticable with a swipe of an old T-shirt and only slightly on the test section. I also have not run trains as often since the test began because it is beyond cool in the garage (below 60 is flat out cold when you live here all year). Despite those factors I am quite happy with the results and I believe this process will overcome my geared steamers' dirty track problems. Roy
Roy Onward into the fog http://s1014.photobucket.com/albums/af269/looseclu/
I don't quite have your problem with salt - the dust around here is alkaline, and there's plenty of it. My garage is in the dessicated desert and, thanks to a gas hot water heater, has open vents that can't be sealed.
My first experiment with gleaming took place about four years ago - Atlas code 100 flex track. I have since lifted that track and re-laid it (without re-gleaming) and it still has no contact problems, even with DMU that have pickup from only two wheels per unit. Other than the monthly general vacuuming, it has never been cleaned since being re-laid.
Based on my experience with that three yard length of flex, I've taken to gleaming all new trackwork as soon as it's laid - and have had exactly zero contact problems as the nickel-silver octopus extended its tentacles all over the netherworld. To say that pleases me is a thunderous understatement.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I take it then that you will be gleaming the rest of the tracks? Smart move, Roy!
I am a strong supporter of gleaming. I fully gleamed my layout over two years ago. I haven't done ANY regular track cleaning since! I've done some spot cleaning here and there, but not the whole layout.
Several years ago, I built a circular N scale layout that fits in my Christmas tree. Before I set it up last year, I gleamed the rails. Worked fine as expected. I set it up again this year. Put the same train on it that I had used last year, powered it up and the train circled the track without any hesitation at all! Remember, the last time these tracks had a train run on them was LAST year. I didn't even wipe the rails off before running the train.
I'm trying a new experiement this year. I built a small oval On30 layout for under the tree. I used both old and new track to built the layout. After the track was laid, I lightly filed any rail joints that needed it, then used a Bright Boy on the whole layout followed by a good sanding with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. After wiping the rails with a damp cloth, I applied a coating of No-Ox, letting the engine distribute it around the layout as per instructions. After wiping the rails again with a soft rag, I installed the layout under the tree. It has been working fine all week as I expected it to. The real test will come NEXT year when this layout comes out of storage. I'll find out then if No-Ox works as well as gleaming! LOL Stay tuned!
As an aside, when I built this layout, I used the tried-and-true ballasting technique of misting with wet water and dribbling diluted (50/50) glue/water mixture on the ballast. This is a technique that I haven't used much in over 30 years. It was a horrible experience! I had ballast going places where it didn't belong and it took a long time to get the tracks cleaned of stray ballast. I think I'll be returning to my old method of ballasting using dry powdered resin glue. I mix the dry resin glue directly with the dry ballast, spread the ballast where I want it then mist it with wet water using alcohol as a wetting agent. The resin bonds the ballast to the ties and also bonds the ties to the roadbed. I have never had to go back and clean any stray ballast from the rails using this method. Oh, well! Live and learn! I'm sure there's a trick to doing it correctly, but I must have a steeeeeeep learning curve! LOL
As far as I'm concerned, gleaming is the best way to reduce your track cleaning needs.
"Gleaming" is the polishing process, while Flitz is the metal polish product itself.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Medina1128 "Gleaming" is the polishing process, while Flitz is the metal polish product itself.
Flitz is one of a number of products that can be used. I used Mother's Mag Wheel Polish because that was what I could find locally.
Gleaming is the process which finishes up with a good rubdown of all railheads with a large steel washer, cupped side up. That flattens and closes up the microgrooves left in the railhead by files, Bright Boys and/or 600 grit sandpaper. Without those microgrooves grunge has nothing to grab onto (except passing plastic wheels.)
Chuck how did the Mother's work for you? Would you do it again? Recommend it?
Thanks
ratled
Modeling the Klamath River area in HO on a proto-lanced sub of the SP “The State of Jefferson Line”
ratled Chuck how did the Mother's work for you? Would you do it again? Recommend it? Thanks ratled
Works like a champ! I'm still using the original can, and (like my soldering flux) haven't used half of it yet. I give each newly-laid rail section the full gleam treatment immediately after installing the electricals, and haven't ever had to go back with anything more serious than a dry paper towel.
I don't know if Mother's is any better or worse than other metal polishes. I just know that it works for me, and recommend it on that basis.
I'm not sure about how it applies to track, but from an automotive standpoint, Mothers is some of the best stuff you can use, that's widely available. I know dozens of guys with $2500 billet aluminum rims on their trucks, and they swear by Mothers.
In short, it's great stuff, without being TOO abrasive.
Thanks Chuck I was wondering how it worked. My concern was if it left a film that might "block" the electrical contact. I tried another gleaming product from another thread but found that I was one of the few that used it and wasn't impressed. I was interested in the Flitz and saw you Mothers post.... and I know how good Mothers can be in other uses.....
Thanks again
Hi,Roy!
Hate to "rub it in", but
TOLDJA!!!
I got 5 engines back from my decoder installer guy( I'm not good at it), put them on the track and away we went. At LEAST 4 months since I ran ANY trains.
The only thing I'd add is I use Blue Magic polish, only because that's what's available here.
Terry
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
Gleaming seems to be catching on! Hooray!! I've been promoting it as often as possible for nearly two years now! Sure wish I could remember where I learned of the process so I could give proper credit.
One comment. Chuck said he uses a large steel washer, cupped side up to burnish the rails after the sanding step. The instructions I first saw said to use a stainless steel washer, also cupped side up. Stainless is harder than regular steel so it will burnish the rails better. A regular steel washer could leave microscopic bits of steel embedded in the rails which could rust and make for poor electrical contact.
I think it's also important to make sure the washer is cupped side up. Washers are made on a punch press, punching the washers out of plates of steel. The punch process deforms the edges of the washers ever so slightly, leaving the edges on one side rounded. The other side has edges that are sharp and raised up. You want to avoid rubbing the sharp edge on your rails as it will scratch them badly.
Any metal polish should work with the process. I've only used Mother's polish but I've heard of good results with Flitz's and others, even Brasso. As far as I know, none of these polishes leave any residue on the rails that blocks electrical current.
Any time I notice any kind of pausing of the train on the tracks, I re-polish the section where the pause occurred. Always solves the problem for me!
Hope these comments help.
tomikawaTTGleaming is the process which finishes up with a good rubdown of all railheads with a large steel washer, cupped side up. That flattens and closes up the microgrooves left in the railhead by files, Bright Boys and/or 600 grit sandpaper. Without those microgrooves grunge has nothing to grab onto (except passing plastic wheels.)
Can someone post a picture of such a washer, so I can find one at the Home Despot?
Here's a link to my gleaming pictures in photobucket:
http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a392/dgwinup/gleam%20process/
The washer is just a standard stainless steel washer, as in nut-bolt-washer usage.
The process is labor intensive and time consuming. I think I took 3 days to gleam my small "L"-shaped 30" x 78" layout. But the efforts reward you with track that just doesn't need cleaning again for a long time!
Hope this helps.
Gleaming was the best thing I did for my patio layout....I did it last summer and all I do now is give the rails a wipe down with an old tee shirt and I'm ready to go. I get very little residue off of the rails than I did before I gleaned the tracks.
Bob Berger, C.O.O. N-ovation & Northwestern R.R. My patio layout....SEE IT HERE
There's no place like ~/ ;)
O.K. Something not mentioned, or if it was I read right over it. How much pressure for the fine grit sandpaper, and especially the washer? Firm, but not really forceful for the 600 grit? Move along the track without 'scrubing?' And the washer. Firm and steady along the track, or bearing down? Is this a gentile or forceful process?
You don't need much pressure when sanding. It won't hurt to use more pressure, but you're arms will get tired faster. You can experiment with various amounts of pressure to find the level you are comfotable with that gives you good results. View the tops of the rails as you are sanding. You will be able to see the rails get shinier and shinier as you sand. You can definitely "scrub" with the sandpaper.
The washer can be done with a little more pressure than the sandpaper. You really can't see much difference on the rails when you burnish with the washer. You might be able to notice the rails getting a different appearance as the washer does its work. The sanding leaves a shiny, but bland, appearance on the rails and the washer removes the blandness without adding much to the shine.
This isn't a forceful procedure at all, but you don't have to be gentle with it except on the turnouts. You can damage the points if too much pressure is used, but that would be way more pressure than what you need.
I've always used a short piece of cork roadbed to apply my polish. Try not to get too much polish on your applicator. It's difficult to clean the polish off the ties and rails so you don't want to get polish on them if you can avoid it.
Buff the polish off the rails with a soft cloth. Old T-shirt work well; paper towels work, too. If you look carefully, you might see an even shinier surface on the rails as you buff the polish off.
If you're worried about the process, experiment on a short siding to determine what works best for you. You'll get a feel for how much pressure to use and what the rails look like at each step.
Good luck. I know you're going to love the results you get.
I'm so glad to hear there are people finally reaping the benefits of this proceedure. I first did this entire process to my entire layout about five years ago. After seeing the benefits then, and for the last number of years having had to not clean my track once since - I strongly promoted this process here much to the chagrin of a lot of nay-sayers.
I think most of the nay-sayers were those who wanted a quick fix, and this process sounded too much like work. Sure, there were a lot of nights I swear my arm was still going through the motions in my sleep, but it was well worth the invested time then for all the trouble free operation I've had since.
Congratulations to all of those who are now reaping the benefits of this proceedure.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Call me lazy, but couldn't I just use a felt wheel on my Dremel to do the same thing? Use one to apply the polish, and one to buff it out?
dngrous Call me lazy, but couldn't I just use a felt wheel on my Dremel to do the same thing? Use one to apply the polish, and one to buff it out?
The polishing is the last (and easiest) step in the proceedure. I tried the Dremel for the polishing step, but actually found it to be more work .... I was getting polish on the side of the rail from the invariable slips off the railhead that had to be cleaned by hand. I found by wrapping a cotton rag tightly around a small block of wood, I could apply a SMALL amount of polish to the rag and polish up the railheads in rather short order.
All the "work" required in the process is the burnishing. Remember, you are literally melding the metal on the railhead to smooth it out .... the harder you force that stainless steel washer into the rail, the quicker it will work - you'll actually feel the surface becoming smoother.
You can skip the sanding steps and lightly skip over the rails with the washer and call it done .... but you're only cheating yourself. Optimum results of this process are no different than laying track properly or even wiring properly - take the time to do it right and it will pay you back dividends big time in the long run.
Hello from Semafore, the guy who started this craze. I appreciate the ongoing interest with the concept. Itoo have benefited by it's rewards. Also onteresting is the extent to which others are experimenting with other metods or products. The basic 400, 600, wipe, burnish, wipe method has seen many variations. A forum search for 'gleam' will present the gossip. The use of polish is not wrong to me.
The point is, I don't have a final answer. The fact is, the method does greatly extend the time between cleaning. I didn't use the polish at our museum. There were many other tasks to perform. Lack of space inhibits a personal layout. Life is busy. I finally got back to the website. Blah, blah, blah...!
A good test will be: the museum layout was burnished since December '06. Right now the SFRM museum is being renovated. The layout is wrapped like a cocoon til fall 2011. Time will tell.
Thanks for the support. I invite further interest from everyone, even the critics.
Semafore, definitely with the blade at 60 degrees down (clear on JNR lower-quadrant semaphores.)
Several posters have mentioned that gleaming is time consuming. Perhaps so, if an entire layout has to be done at once. Since I gleam each electrical section of my under-construction empire as soon as the drops are connected to the rest of the control system, the process isn't time consuming at any one time, and I've never had to go back and, "Re-gleam."
My longest track section, about 6 meters (20 feet) of single track and one (sweeping curved) turnout, only took about 20 minutes for the full treatment.
I took a close look at my gleaming washer - it actually is stainless steel.
I used the GLEAM process back in May of 2006 and have suggested it to many modelers over the years. Some would turn their nose up at it without even trying it while others would jump in with both feet. There were a lot of surprised folks out there when some longtime modelers tried it and praised it highly. As for my track? I haven't had to do a serious cleaning on it since May of 2006. Just a quick wipe down with a clean dry cloth if I hadn't run any trains for a while. I left the inner loop untreated as a control. I had to clean it almost every week while the treated track required zero maintenance. I was sold. The inner loop has since been GLEAMed as well.
Edit: Forgot to mention, I use Blue Magic cream metal polish.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Yes it is time-consuming........or is it? I prefer to thik of it as condensing years or future mundane labor into about 10 minutes per 3-feet of HO track! How cool is that? BTW, I've been measure AND obtained a straight-jacket....in case I get some other crazy idea!
do you do the gleaming when the track is laid, or when the ballast and painting is completed?
Thanks,
Fred
I did most of mine after the tracks was already down and ballasted. Any new track gets gleamed before it even sees the layout.
Jeff, I think that a good time-management thing to do. For once the track is down, you're done! And all the track is comfortably in front of you, rather that contorting one.s body over and around the layout. Maybe someday rail mfrs will produce it, albeit at a cost. Yet virtually maintenance-free track woulb be worth it.
Be good. Be well. Be Trained!
Semafore
Hi from Semafore. The key is to contour a dome on the railhead by sanding. I use 400 W/D, on a small wood block, then the 600 W/D. The block is firm yet forgiving. The arc produced on the rail ensures good electical contact to the wheels, and better adhesion for the drivers. The inner faces of the railhead make contact with the flanges, so do this. too. The sanding also removes the extrusion texture on the rails. Use Moderate pressure. Wipe the spoil off good, for the grit will embed into your SS device.
Then the burnish. Moderate to heavy, not too heavy. On the point, use lightler pressure, just do more passes.
Occasionally it's good to sand the SS device, to remove accumalation and grit. Then wipe the rails again. You're done!
Hello fro Semafore, originator of the process. The washer should be Stainless Steel. A 1/2-inch cut washer is good on HO. This is a common item at Home Depot or other stores. Other tools are ok as long as you can manipulate it, or them, to do the work. Spoons and handles, for examples.