BigDaddy Seven year old thread.
Seven year old thread.
It's all good though. First time I've heard of this technique, and others might be in the same boat. You CAN teach an old dog new tricks (or in this case, maybe it's new dog learning old tricks!)
Guess thats what happens when you search
Gary
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Any store that carries marine Supplies will have the washers as well as most hardware stores. The Tru-Value by me has them.
Hello from Semafore. I feel that you are correct. If you can't do all the travelled trackage, then partial gleam has little lasting benefit, since the wet/dry cars will only soil the burnished track. The luster will quickly diminish, the electrical resistance will incease, causing more arcing and the carbon build-up; the tractive effort will also decrease from the soil. (Back to square one.) Since the w/d cars will do all the track, then at least the track properties should be uniform. Sadly, a BURNISH CAR in not available at this time. Burnishing is a method I use as a dry-clean only. Old train-Ts make great wiping material.
Keep the faith, Bob! May the next project incorporate the method. I am always learning more about it myself, as this issue is a mere 4-5 years old.
Hello from Semafore. I am from Springfield, Mass. I lived there until I moved to South Florida in 1980. Boston and Maine RR used the Springfield yard then. I'd bike over there in my tweens and teens to watch and learn. Yet safety was Always #1 .I was into HO then and now. The thing I recall the most was, track cleaning. WAP! It would take 3 hrs for a BB pass to run trains for 2 or three days until the track was filthy again. Yay, Brass! But I didn't have the notion then of burnishing. This happened a few years ago in my garage reconditioning guitar frets. Go figure. The connection I made was, frets are nickel-silver, like track. They gleam just like track, too. Do this if you have a guitar. Those strings will play and bend with little effort. Anyway, if I thought of it then, I certainly would have done it, 'cause it works well on brass, too.
I would like to see the ctvrr very much when I visit my family soon. Please reply to my rcbsys1@aol.com if you would be so kind as to invite me.
Thank you,
Richard (Semafore)
pastorbob I have to admit the technique seems quite good, maybe the best going. I can't use it however, because large stretches of my railroad, which has three decks, is track that was laid bullet proof in the mid 1980's and is hidden or limited access. I could "gleam" the visible track, but that would leave large sections "ungleamed". So will continue to use my work train with a wet and a dry CMX cars to take care of the track. It works for me, and that is the bottom line. Bob
I have to admit the technique seems quite good, maybe the best going. I can't use it however, because large stretches of my railroad, which has three decks, is track that was laid bullet proof in the mid 1980's and is hidden or limited access. I could "gleam" the visible track, but that would leave large sections "ungleamed". So will continue to use my work train with a wet and a dry CMX cars to take care of the track. It works for me, and that is the bottom line.
Bob
No one ever said your track had to be all gleamed or all ungleamed. By all means, gleam what you can reach, and continue to use your track cleaning cars for the inaccessable sections.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
AfricangreyThe sand papers can be found at any auto supply stores, I got mine at Kregan, but I am sure Pepboy should carry them too. They use this to remove digs and scratches at bodyshops. On another note, I am wondering how long can a washer last, or does one last forever. I found mine to have cuts and bruises after 10 feet of tracks or so before I changed to a new one.
The sand papers can be found at any auto supply stores, I got mine at Kregan, but I am sure Pepboy should carry them too. They use this to remove digs and scratches at bodyshops.
On another note, I am wondering how long can a washer last, or does one last forever. I found mine to have cuts and bruises after 10 feet of tracks or so before I changed to a new one.
Just for information.
Up here in the Great White North, (that's Canada for those who do not know) I was wandering around my local Canadian Tire Store the other day. As I walked down the automotive "Rattle Can" section I caught a glimpse of some small packs of fine sandpaper for finishing automobile paint. They ran from 400 grit and progressed through three or four grits up to 2000 grit. There were 5 or 6, 4" X 6" sheets in each package and the price ranged from $2.79 to $2.99 a pack. I would imagine that most well equipped Auto Supply Shops around the world would have a similar selection available. I picked up a pack each of 400, 800 and 1500 grit. I am sure that any leftovers will find use on some other modeling project.
Blue Flamer.
The paper I use is Wet/Dry sandpaper; black grit. This is used for sanding hard finishes, metal, etc. Standard stock in major stores. Sold in sheet packs as single-grade or assorted grit packs.
misterconsisterThanks all for detailed posting on this subject. I will be trying it out as I make my first layout operational. Question, I'm planning on the following sequence for my track: 1) Secure track - Latex caulk 2) Paint rails 3) Ballast track 4) Gleam rails Does this order make sense?
Thanks all for detailed posting on this subject. I will be trying it out as I make my first layout operational.
Question, I'm planning on the following sequence for my track:
1) Secure track - Latex caulk
2) Paint rails
3) Ballast track
4) Gleam rails
Does this order make sense?
You'll want to gleam the rail before you lay it. It's much easier to do the work on your workbench than on the layout.
Well the washer has to be STAINLESS STEEL. A magnet won't attract to it. It does't rust. If you are defacing it then maybe the track is steel (test with magnet) , or some sand grit is embedded into it. Lay some of the sandpaper on a flat surface, sand side up, Then sand the washer until it feels smooth, and wipe away the debris. My washer is the FIRST I've had (5 years), It will not burnish to a shine itself.
Hi Wyatt. Well, I figure that at a rate of 10 feet per 20 minutes, and turnouts at 1 per 10 minutes, tunnels and helixes depend on access. Don't let it scare you. If you can get help, you can pair up and alternate steps. A key thing here is, the original post with text ' I'm talkin' GLEAM! ' did not include the contour step. I realized this critical step later. Please do a forum search in all forums, type in gleam and contour in the search box.
Another cool thing is that a wheel cleaner made from an arc or a loop of track, with cleaner dampened cotton t laid over the rails, just move the wheels back and forth. the radius makes the locked wheels scrub off the gunk! for most locos, hold the front wheels on bare track for power, let the rear wheels scrub on the t. then reverse trucks.
I get mine at Wal-Mart.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
I too am one who is sold on this method just based on all the different threads on this forum about it. I however plan on undertaking this AFTER major scenery construction is complete but BEFORE trees, telephone poles and other finer details are added. Ballasting is completed. No sense in gleaming in my opinion until after the danger of paints, plasters and glues is over with for the most part. My 2 cents anyhow.
Matt
BTW, Al Gore NEVER claimed to have invented the Internet, this is silly lore that will not die.
Eric
I'm kinda likin this stuff
Mark R. Darrell - Takes a lot more than that to antagonize ME ! If Richard wants to lay claim to being the originator, I really have no problem with it .... much the same as I could care less whether or not Al Gore wants to lay claim to inventing the internet ! Mark.
Darrell - Takes a lot more than that to antagonize ME !
If Richard wants to lay claim to being the originator, I really have no problem with it .... much the same as I could care less whether or not Al Gore wants to lay claim to inventing the internet !
Mark.
Thanks, Mark, I don't want to antagonize anyone, ever. OK, hardly ever!
In the spririt of being politically correct (egads! How I HATE that term) and in light of the fact that Richard has now denied being the originator of the process and being an all-around generally nice-guy, I'll amend my statement. It was Richard's posting years ago that brought the process to my attention. So I will hereafter give Richard credit for that.
I, too, suffered with poorly running trains. I don't run my layout on a regular basis. When I do, I often have to clean off stuff that's been piled on and around the layout just to run the trains. Before learning of the Gleam Method, I was resigned to using a Bright Boy track cleaner just to get the trains to make a complete lap of the layout. I often had to run a track cleaning car, too, to keep the trains running. It was frustrating, to say the least. And it took a long time to Bright Boy all the tracks on my small layout.
Being a natural born skeptic, when I read Richard's post about the Gleam Method, I didn't believe it. So I tried it on a little used siding on my layout. There was a world of difference between running a train around the layout and then into the siding. When the train hit the siding, it seemed to glide over the rails. No hesitations, no flickering lights, just smooth running. The process seemed to have merit, but now I was reluctant because of the labor-intense nature of the process. Prior to the Thanksgiving/Christmas holidays several years ago, I bit the bullet and applied the Gleam Method to my entire layout. I figured I'd spend only a little more time gleaming than I did Bright Boy-ing. Wrong! Three DAYS later, I was done!
And that's the LAST time I've had to clean track on my layout.
I'm happy to see that so many modelers are coming to the same realization I have: the Gleam Method works and works well!
BTW, I sold my track cleaning car. I use the Bright Boy to clean the contacts in battery compartments, especially if a battery has leaked in it. Hey, I just had a thought! Maybe the Gleam Method would work on the battery contacts, too! Well, nobody ever said I was the swiftest boat on the lake! LOL
So I raise a cup of (insert favorite beverage of choice here) and toast Richard and the as-yet unknown inventor of the Gleam Method.
I think I'll go run a train now.
they got everything in the Amazon jungle!
http://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Sheets-Silicon-Carbide-Grit/dp/B0006M2TN8
It should be available widely, so this is a bit of a puzzle. All large builder's supply stores should have a broad range of materials for many demands. Sand paper goes all the way up into the 1000 count range and beyond.
You may have to go to a craft store or a hobby shop where they have fine finishing supplies. Try a paint's store...but call before you go in all cases.
-Crandell
Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but where can you get 400 and 600 grit sandpaper? I was in Lowe's last week and the finest grit they had was 220 and they called that extra fine. I didn't have any better luck at my nearby ma and pa hardware store.
wm3798This process seems a tad labor intensive to me...
SOO_N ScalerI never heard of this proces,, so you consider me a newby at it. So what are proper steps/procedures for the process? Is it just the sandpaper, then washer?, Or do you use a metal polish after the washer?
(Originally posted by Semafore) I'm talking GLEAM!: ULTRA_SHINY and Smooth rails can now be had with my 'WHAT box?" approach to this conductivity problem. An HO modeller since 1970, I know the problem WELL!THIS IS A ONE-TIME PROCESS. DO ALL TRACK!!1] On an appropiate-sized block, use 400 wet/dry paper to remove the extrusion milling left on the railheads. The block must span both rails.2] Now use 600 or finer, repeat process.3] Using an appropiate-sized STAINLESS-STEEL piece, apply moderate pressure and BURNISH the rails! The more you slide back and forth, the smoother and shinier the rails become! [ the GLEAM part ]. This is because you have removed the ridges, bumps, and pits. Burnishing helps seal pores with metal, eliminating traps for dirt and tarnish; almost like a MIRROR!4] [For Bob H.] Use BLUE MAGIC or equivalent metal polish to deep-clean the remaining contaminates.5] Last, buff the rails to your eye's content!The shine is 5x more lusterous than just polish alone. The wax left behind is minimal, is not insulating, and virtually eliminates rail cleaning.This is a process HOT OFF THE PRESSES! [Of my brain] I've only been at it 6 weeks with amazing results! {I just added the wax step today.} prior to that, though, the NS HO rails I'm guinea-pigging (300') sans wax STILL gleams today, with slight tarnishing, so I'm gonna wax 'em next!I will also try some classic brass rail to see how that stands up.AND REMEMBER; NO MORE ABRASIVES...EVER!!!!!!Or you'll just ruin your mirror finish, and will have to gleam and wax AGAIN!Dry-wipe with paper towel or cotton. You can always polish anytime; wipe away excess.I've had DCC and DC locos/lash-ups creep at a scale 3-5MPH around the staging level loop 100' with NO STALL or FAULTER. gotta love it
I'm running Atlas c55 N scale track, and find that I have to run my little cleaning car (John Allen style with a weighted masonite pad) maybe 3-4 times a year. The rest of the time, I just run a train around about once a week.
This process seems a tad labor intensive to me...
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
I never heard of this proces,, so you consider me a newby at it. So what are proper steps/procedures for the process? Is it just the sandpaper, then washer?, Or do you use a metal polish after the washer?
Right now I clean track the following way,, I use a track cleaner,, the soft kind from perfect, Then I flitz my rails. That usaully works real good in my garage layout in central texas.
I have started to use a product called ACT 6006, acts like the wahl clipper oil idea,, makes me think maybe they just bought clipper oil in large drums and re-packaged it. After I Flitz the rails,, I clean the wheels of my locos with the 6006,, no head light flicker,, no stalls,, no nothing. People that have seen my layout run,,say it runs super smooth.
If this gleaming method works,, I am all for it... Ever look at your hands when you get done cleaning track with a bright boy of some sort? Mine are always dirty...
I wonder how long it will take me to clean a 17'x21' two level layout???
Adios Wyatt
If Richard wants to lay claim to being the originator, I really have no problem with it .... much the same as I could care less whether or not Al Gore wants to lay claim to inventing the internet ! FWIW, I did the burnishing / polishing process on my layout two years prior to Richard's revelation. I did mention it on a couple forums at the time, but I obviously had no long term results of the process - it appeared to be a real answer to the track cleaning problem. I even recall posting that I would post my results in five years !
I was obviously met with all kinds of negativity regarding the process at the time saying it was too much work, it would cause the engines to lose traction, etc.. I could dispute the immediate accused side-effects, but the long term effects of whether it WAS worth all the extra time and effort couldn't be backed up at the time. People were still happy sanding their railheads away and lubing up the track with whatever oily gunk was the hot topic of the day. I knew the only way to drive the benefits home was to wait it out and hopefully provide the long-term benefits when they were in.
Richard - Yes, I whole-heartedly believe in the process myself as well - and have been right there with you promoting the process as well over the last few years. It's now been six years since I did MY track, and I can honestly say, aside from having to get rid of the normal air-borne dust, I have not had to clean my track with ANYthing - period. To prove the point even further, over the last three years, I've probably done good to run my layout once per month in the winter and not at all during the summer months .... but when I do, I just power up and go. In the years prior to having burnished my track, there is no way that would have been possible - it used to take three engines pulling a track cleaning car and three masonite pad cars just to make sure they would make it from one end to the other without stalling.
The last couple of years have seen numerous people piling on the band-wagon with simlar results, so all of the long term promoting has indeed been worth it as more and more people are finally reaping the results and enjoying running their trains instead of cleaning track. It took the long term results to finally drive it home.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Dear Mark,
I suppose I was blowing my horn a bit loudly, yet it was in oblivion to the process being done prior to my experience. All things considered, do you not agree with the physics and dynamics of the GLEAM process? It trully does benefit the hobby with freed-up time.
For the record, 'I, Richard Breton, did not originate the process.' There. However, 'I, Richard Breton, do solemly swear that the process WORKS.' Another 'There.' Now then, let's all get back to our trains, already!
At the unintentional risk of antagonizing Mark R., I'm going to throw out a few comments.
I, personally, consider Richard Breton to be the "originator" of the Gleam Method. While processes similar to his may have been mentioned prior to 2006, they were, by and large, ignored by the modeling community. Richard standardized the process and promoted it.
As to being labeled as a "larger promoter" of the process, I think that detracts from Richard's contribution to the hobby. I consider myself to be a "large promoter" because I have championed the Gleam Method whenever the opportunity presented itself. I have responded to posts in most of the popular model railroading forums regarding the Gleam Method. One forum member from outside the US actually wrote to me requesting permission to use my written tutorial on foreign websites. I was honored by the request.
But I am NOT the originator of the process and I thank Richard for posting in this thread. Now I know to whom the credit belongs, at least in MY mind!
Did Richard really 'invent' the process? I don't know. It's kind of like the internet. Who really invented it? (Certainly NOT Al Gore!!) Maybe the process was around for a while, but it took someone like Richard to bring it to the mainstream and champion the benefits before others really got on the bandwagon.
My thanks to Richard. The Gleam Method really works. To me, a layout isn't complete until it's been gleamed.
Darrell, quiet...for now
I don't know whether I'd go so far as to claim to be the originator of the process or not. I recall reading about the process as far back as the early eighties .... albeit considered to be some hair-brain idea at the time that apparently never caught on. Your original claim to fame on the proceedure was posted back in January 2006, but there were even mentions of the process as far back as July 2003.
I'll give you credit for being one of the larger promotors of the process along with some other dedicated followers, but hardly the originator.
FWIW, this process is a very common process in the tool and die industry on a large variety of machined surfaces for prolonging corrosion resistance and increasing surface strength. I seem to recall the article from the early eighties regarding the process was written by a tool and die guy who had brought the concept home from his work experiences.