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problems opening bottles of paint??

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Posted by Rotorranch on Wednesday, June 11, 2008 3:51 PM

I use heavy leather welding gloves to hold the bottle, and a pair of curved jaw Channelock pliers, set wide enough to grip the lid, but not apply too much pressure on the bottle. No cuts to the hand, but I do have a bright blue left hand glove now. Whistling [:-^]

Rotor

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Posted by train lover12 on Wednesday, June 11, 2008 3:35 PM
 Medina1128 wrote:
 bogp40 wrote:

I keep a small pair of channel locks just for this purpose.

As said, keeping the threads clean and not shaking the bottle to get the paint coating the lid will help. I always stir the paint.

When I reseal the bottle, I place a small square of plastic over the top and screw on the lid. The plastic forms a new seal and allows the lid to twist off easily next time.

Micro-Mark also sells a nice paint stirrer that runs on AA batteries. I bought one and I love it. Just remember to let it stop before removing it from the paint.

did you learn from experience?Laugh [(-D]Laugh [(-D]Laugh [(-D]

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Posted by Autobus Prime on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 2:35 PM
 mobilman44 wrote:

I guess the best thing to do is to wipe of the threads on the bottle and inside of the cap before you close them - but who will do that every time????


m44:
That really is the way to do it, however. I'm not a conscientious or meticulous person by any standard, but I eventually got tired of wasting paint.

Testors bottles are nice because they are square, and you can grip them in a vise while twisting the cap. This doesn't break them...as often as it seems like it would.
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Posted by Medina1128 on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 2:21 PM
 bogp40 wrote:

I keep a small pair of channel locks just for this purpose.

As said, keeping the threads clean and not shaking the bottle to get the paint coating the lid will help. I always stir the paint.

When I reseal the bottle, I place a small square of plastic over the top and screw on the lid. The plastic forms a new seal and allows the lid to twist off easily next time.

Micro-Mark also sells a nice paint stirrer that runs on AA batteries. I bought one and I love it. Just remember to let it stop before removing it from the paint.

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Posted by StillGrande on Friday, February 29, 2008 1:42 PM

I switched a few years ago to the acrylics you can get at Michaels and craft stores.  There are about a million colors and you can match just about anything.  They are usually under $2, on sale for under $1 often, and come with a plastic bottle and cap with a flip top.  Easy to mix, you can get any color you want if you experiment a little.  Once they are dry they are on.  I haven't had one chip or need touch ups since I started.  I have never had another stuck lid, that is for sure.  They also never seem to dry out. 

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Posted by mobilman44 on Thursday, February 28, 2008 7:44 AM

Hi!

I have wrestled with this problem for years and years.  I've done the nutcracker, the pliers, and yes even channel locks.  Most of the time they worked, but I've broken a couple bottles and had no success a few times too.

About three years ago a bought a small pair of Sears Craftsman RoboGrip "pliers".  The thing is, I got the one with the curved jaws, which allows a larger surface contact area on the bottle top.  It has successfully worked EVERY time for me since purchased.

As an aside, last week I had a small square shaped bottle of testors paint that was totally stuck.  I ended up using a crescent wrench on the bottle and the robogrips on the top.  I got the thing opened, but really don't recommend that approach.

I guess the best thing to do is to wipe of the threads on the bottle and inside of the cap before you close them - but who will do that every time????

ENJOY,

Mobilman44

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

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Posted by Tilden on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 9:05 PM

Sign - Ditto [#ditto]

And paint fast....

Tilden 

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Posted by dale8chevyss on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 9:02 PM

Another strategy is once you have the bottle open do not close it.......

 

 

 

ever.

 

 

 

 

Big Smile [:D]

Modeling the N&W freelanced at the height of their steam era in HO.

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Posted by jeffrey-wimberly on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 5:45 PM
I got a jar lid opener pad from Wal-Mart. I use it to hold onto the bottle and use a pair of slip-joint pliers to clamps down on the lid. I haven't lost one yet.

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Posted by chadw on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 4:34 PM

I'm not sure if this method would work with solvent paint.  I usually use acrylics.  When the lids get stuck I tap on the top and sides of the lid with the handle of a kitchen knife.  It doesn't really matter what you use, it just needs to be hard and heavy enough.  The tapping usually breeaks the seal formed by the dried paint making the lid easy to open.  You end up with a slightly dented lid but it is still useable.

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Posted by shayfan84325 on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 3:58 PM

 selector wrote:
Invert the bottle and dip just the lid into boiling hot water.  Careful...you only need to keep it in there for about three seconds.  Invert the bottle and use vice grips that have been previously adjusted to size to "just" grip the top snugly enough that the lock engages.  This way, instead of hurrying and trying to grip the lid hard enough to get it off, you won't overdo it and crush the glass.

This idea seems brilliant!  I almost wish I had a stuck lid so I could try it,

Phil,
I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.

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Posted by jeffers_mz on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 3:48 PM

Another tip that works well for me, TIGHTEN the lid.

The paint forms a bond between glass and lid, so to move the lid to unscrew it, you have to break the bond.

Mechanically, when you twist the lid and it's stuck, you compress and slightly smear the bonding paint inside the lid, but do not crack the bond loose.

At this point, a little reverse pressure, tightening the lid instead of loosening it, not enough to actually move the lid, just enought to torque it a bit, will often crack the lid loose for an easy open from there.

 

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Posted by selector on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 9:10 PM
Invert the bottle and dip just the lid into boiling hot water.  Careful...you only need to keep it in there for about three seconds.  Invert the bottle and use vice grips that have been previously adjusted to size to "just" grip the top snugly enough that the lock engages.  This way, instead of hurrying and trying to grip the lid hard enough to get it off, you won't overdo it and crush the glass.
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Posted by DeadheadGreg on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 8:45 PM
cool, thanks guys.  thing is, the bottle is new.  its never been opened.  sooo yeah.  haha
PHISH REUNION MARCH 6, 7, 8 2009 HAMPTON COLISEUM IN HAMPTON, VA AND I HAVE TICKETS!!!!!! YAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!! [quote user="jkroft"]As long as my ballast is DCC compatible I'm happy![/quote] Tryin' to make a woman that you move.... and I'm sharing in the Weekapaug Groove Wake up to find out that you are the eyes of the world....
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Posted by bogp40 on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 8:11 PM

 jwar wrote:
I read here if one take's a piece of saran (plastic wrap) and places it over the bottle, then tighten the cap works. Store it upright where it wont get shook around, works pretty good. I think I would test the paint on the wrap first, Just a thought...John

I never tried Saran wrap, it propably is too thin. I use the leftover bags from all the detail parts. And boy do I have plenty of them. The plastic does work well, have been storing Floequil and Scalecoat this way for years. Even some of the half filled bottles will last years w/o geling or skimming.

Got the idea from my brother (auto body) that seals gallons of paint by running electrical tape stretched around the lid to act as a gasket. Of coarse they all do have shortened shelf life once opened, but extends it considerably.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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Posted by Tilden on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 6:40 PM

I break the bottle, and paint fast....  OK I use the Micro Mark jar opener too, it works about as well as anything.

Tilden 

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Posted by dale8chevyss on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 6:14 PM
I use a pair of slip joint pliers very carefully. 

Modeling the N&W freelanced at the height of their steam era in HO.

 Daniel G.

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Posted by jwar on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 6:10 PM
I read here if one take's a piece of saran (plastic wrap) and places it over the bottle, then tighten the cap works. Store it upright where it wont get shook around, works pretty good. I think I would test the paint on the wrap first, Just a thought...John
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Posted by loathar on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 6:03 PM

 FriendlyEspee wrote:
Use caution with the channel lock technique. I once got a little enthusiastic with that technique and the bottle cracked and crushed. I ended up with a Grimy Black hand full of glass chunks and solvent paint, and a mess on the floor.

Laugh [(-D]Did the same thing with a bottle of silver myself! Running hot water on it for a while helps.
Then CAREFULLY use some channel locks.Black Eye [B)]

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Posted by FriendlyEspee on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 5:44 PM
Use caution with the channel lock technique. I once got a little enthusiastic with that technique and the bottle cracked and crushed. I ended up with a Grimy Black hand full of glass chunks and solvent paint, and a mess on the floor.
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Posted by JCasey on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 5:33 PM
Ditto on nedthomas' post, I have one of the Micro-Mark jar openers and it works great.
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Posted by bogp40 on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 5:25 PM

I keep a small pair of channel locks just for this purpose.

As said, keeping the threads clean and not shaking the bottle to get the paint coating the lid will help. I always stir the paint.

When I reseal the bottle, I place a small square of plastic over the top and screw on the lid. The plastic forms a new seal and allows the lid to twist off easily next time.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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Posted by nedthomas on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 4:32 PM
Micro-Mark sells a jar opener. Their Item #81313. Costs $6.95. I have one for years and it works fine. As stated before cleaning the jar and lids goes a long way in getting the jars open the next time.
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Posted by shayfan84325 on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 4:22 PM

My methods all result in the lid being destroyed.  You might find that soaking it in laquer thinner will soften the paint enough that it comes lose (I haven't tried this).  Usually, I crimp mine with pliers, just enough to deform the lid, then it will usually open.  Of course, the lid is ruined.  I keep a few mixing bottles/lids handy, so then I transfer the paint to a new bottle and chuck the messed up bottle/lid.

Here are some tips I got from one of the MR Dream Plan Build DVDs:

Never shake the paint; that's how the paint gets on the lid.  Open it and stir it instead.  Before closing the bottle wipe the bottle threads and lid with a clean thinner soaked rag.  Then put the lid on.  I've been following this advice and it has reduced my paint frustration a lot.

Phil,
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 4:05 PM
If you have a nut cracker around, try using that. The old type helps you get a grip on the lid
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problems opening bottles of paint??
Posted by DeadheadGreg on Tuesday, February 26, 2008 3:53 PM
just wondering if anyone else here has ever had problems opening any Floquil paint bottles?  Ive got a bottle of zinc chromate primer that just WILL NOT open.  My hand is killing me trying to open this *** thing!  is this common?  is there anything i can do?
PHISH REUNION MARCH 6, 7, 8 2009 HAMPTON COLISEUM IN HAMPTON, VA AND I HAVE TICKETS!!!!!! YAAAAAAAAY!!!!!!! [quote user="jkroft"]As long as my ballast is DCC compatible I'm happy![/quote] Tryin' to make a woman that you move.... and I'm sharing in the Weekapaug Groove Wake up to find out that you are the eyes of the world....

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